Author Topic: The CUB CLUB (Read 311570 times)

corynmelnkids · « **Reply #200 on:** November 05, 2012, 08:00:06 PM »

Hi Jim
You will be more than happy with the supamatic escape offroad we took delivery of ours in august.
They are a great unit very easy to set up tow like a dream and have plenty of room.
It makes getting out so much easier we went camping last week end and we heading out this week end too.
I have 349 cartopper boat that fits on the top just nice just need to make a mount for the motor on the draw bar.
Once i have that set up she will be all ready for some serious camping and fishing.

fabulous · « **Reply #201 on:** January 29, 2013, 11:45:26 AM »

This thread seemed to be a little quite of late so thought I would post a query to the Cub Club,

We had a our Cub out over the weekend, and notice that the fridge didn't so so well on 12v.

We have a Drover, and built in fridge which came as standard, it's a 3 way fridge, works well on Gas as well as 240v, but not so well on 12v.

Does anyone else have this issue, it was suggested by the people we were away with that it maybe that the 12v wiring isn't up to the task ?

Any thoughts ?

Thanks

Phil & Karen

Wazza2 · « **Reply #202 on:** January 29, 2013, 01:40:53 PM »

Highly possible it is the wiring. Cub use the chassis for -ive return which doesn't seem that robust an idea to me.

I have re-wired mine so all 12v sockets have a -ive wire back to the batteries I have installed. When I did this I was a bit surprised at how the whole lot of the wiring had been installed, including the 240v system. A bit rough and ready for my liking.

I don't have the 3-way fridge so not sure what the norm is for them in terms of 12v performance.

Herks · « **Reply #203 on:** January 29, 2013, 05:06:32 PM »

The 12 volt circuit on these fridges don't work through the thermostat and are really only supposed to keep the fridge cool while travelling i.e. once it has been cooled on 240 volt or gas and cold goods placed in the fridge. It will not cool effectively if loaded with warm goods. This is also explained in the user manual.
Additionally there have been some quite hot days recently, not sure if this also may have had something to do with the outcome.
as for chassis or earth return circuits, if all earth's are good and well grounded then there should not be any adverse effects.

Hope this helps

Ta

John

Spada · « **Reply #204 on:** January 29, 2013, 06:23:21 PM »

I'm assuming it's an Electrolux Dometic 3way.

Dont be concerned, this behaviour is completely normal. They work quite well on gas, OK on 240v, but 12v will only just maintain whatever temp is inside, for a short time. The 12v draw is around 10 amp, so don't leave it running too long on 12v.

When we travel, we usually have a 40l Engel running as a freezer, with the fridge for consumables. I've actually had better results by freezing about 6 soft gel type freezer blocks and sticking them into the Cub's 3way when driving, and not bothering with the 12v.

Just my experience, may not apply to everyone as it can depend on how well the fridge is vented, and if it a T or S model Dometic.

Cheers,
Spada

Estelle · « **Reply #205 on:** January 29, 2013, 06:57:46 PM »

We upgraded the wiring in our Drover as we were losing a bit over 1V through the wiring (from memory). Made a bit of difference.

Also, the thermostat is not active running on 12V (our model - 3 years old). All or nothing

maurerless · « **Reply #206 on:** January 29, 2013, 08:28:00 PM »

Quote from: fabulous on January 29, 2013, 11:45:26 AM

This thread seemed to be a little quite of late so thought I would post a query to the Cub Club,

We had a our Cub out over the weekend, and notice that the fridge didn't so so well on 12v.

We have a Drover, and built in fridge which came as standard, it's a 3 way fridge, works well on Gas as well as 240v, but not so well on 12v.

Does anyone else have this issue, it was suggested by the people we were away with that it maybe that the 12v wiring isn't up to the task ?

Any thoughts ?

Thanks

Phil & Karen

Once I did this: http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=15808.msg290688#msg290688
and added a fan to the top vent the fridge worked so well we froze stuff.

There weren't any problems after that.

Tony

sablesoft · « **Reply #207 on:** January 29, 2013, 08:43:53 PM »

Quote from: Wazza2 on January 29, 2013, 01:40:53 PM

I have re-wired mine so all 12v sockets have a -ive wire back to the batteries I have installed. When I did this I was a bit surprised at how the whole lot of the wiring had been installed, including the 240v system. A bit rough and ready for my liking.

Hi Wazza2,

I also replaced ALL the 12V and 240V wiring on my Cub Escape, I think the Cub Campers staff realy need retraining as they do a rough and ready job,

Ray

maurerless · « **Reply #208 on:** January 29, 2013, 09:05:01 PM »

Quote from: sablesoft on January 29, 2013, 08:43:53 PM

Hi Wazza2,

I also replaced ALL the 12V and 240V wiring on my Cub Escape, I think the Cub Campers staff realy need retraining as they do a rough and ready job,

Ray

Agreed. For us it seemed as though all the thinking had gone into the design rather then the finer points like electrics. Why they thought installing 240v power points and 12v outlets in the rear of a cupboard was a good idea, I'll never know.

They are a really good product for their price and we really loved ours and are changing to a van for other reasons. BUT, for a little more work, they could have a much, much better product!

kirwilli · « **Reply #209 on:** February 07, 2013, 09:13:55 PM »

Just wondering if any one has attempted to close their camper with the Tropical roof and annex still attached. I have a Spacematic Regal and with just the annex attached often have difficulty closing the last 150mm of the unit. Cub say the tropical roof can remained attached. Worried that the strain of both items may do some damage to the hard floor when closing.

Kirwilli

alnjan · « **Reply #210 on:** February 07, 2013, 10:49:09 PM »

We are planning to remove the 3 way fridge from the camper and replace it with a 12/240 V ARB fridge. Will also mean putting a battery in the camper and doing a lot of rewiring.

Chippy76 · « **Reply #211 on:** February 08, 2013, 07:49:43 AM »

Quote from: kirwilli on February 07, 2013, 09:13:55 PM

Just wondering if any one has attempted to close their camper with the Tropical roof and annex still attached. I have a Spacematic Regal and with just the annex attached often have difficulty closing the last 150mm of the unit. Cub say the tropical roof can remained attached. Worried that the strain of both items may do some damage to the hard floor when closing.

Kirwilli

I leave the annex roof (we dont have walls attached) on the CT when we fold it up, it takes some careful folding/pushing to make sure it is in the right place, but it doesnt seem to place toomuch strain on the floor. I decided to do it this way as it was too difficult to attach the annex roof at the campsite.

Cheers Chippy

kirwilli · « **Reply #212 on:** February 08, 2013, 10:27:09 AM »

Thanks for the reply Chippy, do you also have the tropical roof attached? We found that if you leave anything on the bed, pillows etc, it stops the canvas folding easily.

Kirwilli

sablesoft · « **Reply #213 on:** February 08, 2013, 01:06:25 PM »

Quote from: kirwilli on February 07, 2013, 09:13:55 PM

Just wondering if any one has attempted to close their camper with the Tropical roof and annex still attached. I have a Spacematic Regal and with just the annex attached often have difficulty closing the last 150mm of the unit. Cub say the tropical roof can remained attached. Worried that the strain of both items may do some damage to the hard floor when closing.

Kirwilli

Hi Kirwilli,

I have a solar blanket on my Cub Escape, I close up the Cub with the solar blanket attached to the roof, however I need to remove the annex roof, It will close OK with either the Solar Blanket or the annex roof attached BUT not both,

Ray

kirwilli · « **Reply #214 on:** February 08, 2013, 02:41:29 PM »

Thanks for that, a large tarp will have to do. Don't fancy taking either annex or tropical roof off each time we pack up.

Kirwili

Wazza2 · « **Reply #215 on:** February 08, 2013, 06:34:49 PM »

Re anything on the bed- I re-read the cub instructions recently and remember seeing where they noted to only leave pillows at the foot of the bed. We put our pillows back in once closed, just to keep the closing process simple.

Awning roof and tropical roof still attached when we close our supamatic. Yes it gets a bit tricky near the last 100mm of closing. Ensure everything is tucked in nicely and if feeling too much strain then take a short walk on the hard floor. Pretty easy to close with body weight pushing the canvas down, rather than excess strain on the winch.

kirwilli · « **Reply #216 on:** February 08, 2013, 08:39:56 PM »

Thanks for that, mind you I have seen the floor flex when pressure is put on the winch. Welding looks good on the floor frame, but expensive if aluminium welding has to be repaired or crack welded.
Kirwilli

Wazza2 · « **Reply #217 on:** February 08, 2013, 08:54:31 PM »

Yikes kirwilli, I've not seen the floor flex! If the winch feels like it's working too hard I just get out the step and climb on top. At 75kg I don't exactly weigh heaps but it's enough to settle the canvas down without breaking anything, including the welds on the aluminium!

joyno · « **Reply #218 on:** February 12, 2013, 08:34:56 PM »

We have a Daintree LE and do not have a problem packing up. We leave our bedding and pillows in the middle of the bed. We leave the awning ( with both walls sewn on ) attached. Open or roll up the front and rear windows before winding as this let's the trapped air out. Take your time winding to let the air escape.
Hope this helps.
Joyno.

gunna · « **Reply #219 on:** February 12, 2013, 08:41:59 PM »

Quote from: joyno on February 12, 2013, 08:34:56 PM

We have a Daintree LE and do not have a problem packing up. We leave our bedding and pillows in the middle of the bed. We leave the awning ( with both walls sewn on ) attached. Open or roll up the front and rear windows before winding as this let's the trapped air out. Take your time winding to let the air escape.
Hope this helps.
Joyno.

We have a cub & do the same as Joyno

sheeds

Spada · « **Reply #220 on:** February 13, 2013, 05:57:25 PM »

We have a Cub Supermatic (which is about to be put on the market), and have no drama's with the pack-up

Bed stays made up with its underlay, sheets and doona, pillows go at the foot of the bed, annexe walls are folded and go on the bed in their bag.

Then outside, the annexe with the front (kitchen) wall still atached gets folded over onto the roof as the floor winds over.

It took us a while to work out the routine of folding, but we now have it down pat, and it all folds up without a problem.

Cheers,
Greg

kirwilli · « **Reply #221 on:** February 13, 2013, 07:38:00 PM »

Thanks for the reply Greg, just wondering if the tropical roof will fit under there as well as the annex.

Regards

Spada · « **Reply #222 on:** February 14, 2013, 05:06:18 PM »

Not sure about the tropical, as I dont have one.

Mudhunter · « **Reply #223 on:** February 16, 2013, 10:05:22 PM »

Well thought it was time to post some pics of our 2006 Cub Kamaparoo Offroad, just in the middle of doing some upgrades. Installed big Checkerplate box that will hold Our fridge and also our generator. Had to cut and move a couple of things but its all fitting well now. Also fitted battery today and inverter. More to come.... Brendon

Wazza2 · « **Reply #224 on:** February 16, 2013, 11:56:23 PM »

I'm sure you'll find a few more things to put in that box Brendon!

Good onya for getting stuck in and making it what you really want. Keep up the good work

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Author Topic: The CUB CLUB (Read 311570 times)