Author Topic: Anyone know where I can get the triton de-carboned  (Read 14811 times)

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Offline prodigyrf

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Re: Anyone know where I can get the triton de-carboned
« Reply #25 on: May 28, 2015, 07:15:35 PM »
Smacks forehead! Of course that's why the Dealer wants to replace everything for WHS and environmental waste considerations. They can't do what the owners and backyarders do and welcome to the costs of trying to clean up toxic oilers.
There's no Great Evil conspiracy against consumers within engineering, manufacturing and supply. Just the many tradeoffs incurred to satisfy diverse tastes, priorities and wallets. But first comes all the insatiable Gummint eggsperts, nanny-staters and usual suspects.

Offline dazzler

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Re: Anyone know where I can get the triton de-carboned
« Reply #26 on: May 28, 2015, 08:27:36 PM »
are you sure......



Its magic - like everything in a can.

It goes into the manifold, washes the gunk, then it disappears and reappears in the exhaust.  Dont you know ANYTHING.....  :D  ;D

Being serious;

I decarboned my old 1kz by stripping the manifolds off.  That gunk was on that hard that even soaking in carbyclean for ages and scraping off it took another couple of hours scrubbing with petrol to get it out.

I reckon that stuff in the can helps by getting stuff off sensors and all that but thats about it. Happy to be proved wrong as I have to do my bros triton soon.  Is there a before and after video anywhere?

Edit - sorry just found the earlier vid links.
« Last Edit: May 28, 2015, 08:32:29 PM by dazzler »
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http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=36094.msg578367#msg578367


Offline prodigyrf

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Re: Anyone know where I can get the triton de-carboned
« Reply #27 on: May 28, 2015, 09:25:09 PM »
It's all coming back to me with the mobikes in the late 60s early 70s with all those Jap 80-200cc 2 stroke commuters and they'd come in on their last legs with the exhausts clogged up and dripping oily goo. You'd remove the baffle and burn them off with oxy but if the whole exhaust was too bad you'd have to tell them you're about to have blue chrome exhaust pipes chumley. Pull them off and out in the yard and start the burn with oxy from the rear to the header and once they got going just feed the inferno with compressed air. Soot ash carbon sparks pouring out with clouds of smoke that would have every flashing light and siren rolling up nowadays and a Royal Commission to boot. Best tune-up they could ever get, especially if you drilled a few extra holes in the baffles to prolong the next visit.

That Autoinform vid showing the BG gear no doubt works reasonably well given the pulsed injection method and time period but we certainly don't get much time spent on what's coming out the tailpipe and for good reason. Still if you had a mate with a few acres out the scrub  ;D



 

 
There's no Great Evil conspiracy against consumers within engineering, manufacturing and supply. Just the many tradeoffs incurred to satisfy diverse tastes, priorities and wallets. But first comes all the insatiable Gummint eggsperts, nanny-staters and usual suspects.

Offline Andreweasty90

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Re: Anyone know where I can get the triton de-carboned
« Reply #28 on: May 28, 2015, 09:42:42 PM »
I'm going to give it a try once I find a shop that does it around brissy or the sunny coast


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Offline prodigyrf

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Re: Anyone know where I can get the triton de-carboned
« Reply #29 on: May 29, 2015, 12:41:45 AM »
Well according to the boys on newtriton.net you can get the manifold and egr removed and cleaned for around $700 but sounds like not through the Dealers. The consensus is you should get it done at least every 100,000km but it can be less if you're chugging around town all the time, bearing in mind nearly 80% of Australian motorists mileage is urban.
As well with oil blowby and EGR to control NOx emissions (and apparently that's still the case with DPFs too) your engine is going downhill in efficiency the moment it leaves the showroom. The consensus is a Provent 200 catch can and Tony's EGR mod because the Provent won't upset Mitsi with warranty but an EGR blank plate will. Tony's mod is easily removed for warranty servicing. Furthermore EGR blank plates are yesterdays and an EGR resistor mod is in because there are other considerations at play-

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=2477&hilit=decarbon&start=1125

You know this oiler crap with the lad's new MN Triton is a real nostalgia trip back to the early 80s when they were experimenting on us all with dumping leaded petrol. Had an 81 Toyota Corona wagon with a 2L Starfire mandated Oz content motor (they chopped 2 cylinders off the Holden 6). Came with a carby with that much wires, hoses and crap that looked like it was off a V8 and a compressor that blew extra air down the exhaust manifold, here there and everywhere. So you ripped it all off, blocked up the holes and adapted a dual throat Webber and sports air cleaner just so it would actually idle, accelerate reasonably smoothly and pull a greasy straw out yer backside. Warning lights, limp modes, vac bags up your exhaust and pulling your bloody car apart to clean its gizzards and they call that progress?  They need an exploding airbag up em all!


There's no Great Evil conspiracy against consumers within engineering, manufacturing and supply. Just the many tradeoffs incurred to satisfy diverse tastes, priorities and wallets. But first comes all the insatiable Gummint eggsperts, nanny-staters and usual suspects.

Offline Beachman

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Re: Anyone know where I can get the triton de-carboned
« Reply #30 on: May 29, 2015, 08:15:08 AM »
You've mentioned engine repairs aren't your thing, so I'll use almost 30 years of engine building experience to explain it, simply  :D

Consider that intake manifold as your ear. In your entire lifetime, your ear has never been cleaned of any build up. It's full of waxy, greasy, gritty, oily, crunchy crud. Heaps of it. So you go to the Doc, he cuts your ear off, sends it to 4wd26 who then starts the cleaning process.
Depending on the ear crud you have accumulated over the years, no doubt this process starts with a scraper, digging out the loose build up. Then of to a cleaning solution to dissolve the bulk of the crud. Quick smash with a pressure cleaner then off to a bead blaster for an entire clean back to bare skin.
After a blast, your ear will be inspected for any other damage, checked for straightness, a final wash and sent back to the Doc. (I'm only assuming this is what he does  :D )

So the Doc then stitches your ear back on and your as good as gold for another many more years. Happy days  :cheers:

Or, you could go to the markets, visit someone in a marquee. He sits you down, connects a can of cleaner up to your ear, and slowly injects it down, to wash all that crud.......... Out through your nose!
Now you know this isn't going to work well, you know it's going to hurt everything between your ear and your nose, but hey, it's cheaper.
So your eyes water, your throat hurts and you can taste that abrasive cleaner and crud combination. You think 'how can I taste this stuff? It went in my ear.......'

Same thing happens in your engine. It goes everywhere!
Your valves, seats, rings, guides, bore, oil, bearings etc, will hate your guts for doing this to it. It goes everywhere through your engines respiratory and cardiac systems. It's hurting it.

All that carbon and oily crud is a byproduct of combustion. It didn't burn the first time, it won't burn again. Your engine 'passed it' like a bad stone, don't make it pass it again, it's painfull.

My suggestion is to remove your engines ear, get its wax cleaned out, refit the ear and do away with the EGR, so it doesn't have ear wax issues again. I'm a non believer of ear cleaner in a can.

Shane.

Best post I've seen is a long time and even a mechanical dummy like me understood.

Offline Footy Shorts Shane

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Re: Anyone know where I can get the triton de-carboned
« Reply #31 on: May 29, 2015, 10:01:04 AM »
A question about this cleaning that I have been pondering over for some time, if I may.
We take off the manifold and clean it, but surely the head inlet ports are also gunked up.
It seems to me that this part never gets cleaned, but surely it to is restricting airflow.
Why does the inlet ports not get cleaned also?
Is it that it is just too hard to get to the ports?

They are gunked up. So too is the intake valve. But 90% of the time they are nowhere near as bad as the intake manifold. There's a few reasons for this. Mostly though, it is to do with airflow and air speed. The injectors also have a lot to do with it.

If you were to think of the manifold as a swollen creek. The creek is wide and deep. There's a heap of storm water in it. Because of the depth and the width, a heap of water can flow through with no problem.
The creek gets narrow as it goes. The speed of the water increases the more narrow the creek becomes. The debris is carried with it.
Same thing happens in the intake of the engine. Where the air enters the intake, the plenum chamber, it is large in volume. The air speed is slow. This air travels toward the intake valve and the diameter of the intake tract reduces, increasing air speed even more as it goes. It travels faster and faster until it enters the combustion chamber.

Back to the creek. With all the flood water comes debris. The debris enters into the wide and deep part of the creek with the slow moving water. It's very easy for this crap to become trapped. One bit lodges against something, it then traps the next bit and so on and so on. It keeps building up. As the water flows through the narrow sections of the creek, the debris that wasn't caught earlier, is carried with the water. It's very hard for it to become lodged against something due to the speed it's travelling at. Sure, a little bit will lodge itself here and there, but most will flow through.

Back to the engine.

The PCV valve and EGR is usually in the plenum. This is where the air speed is slow. So it's easier for the debris to lodge here. As the intake tract narrows the debris is harder to lodge due to speed. Where the airspeed is almost at its highest, is right where the fuel injector Isuzu (petrol engines). In theory, any debris that's in this area, should be suspended in the air travelling stupid fast speeds. To help it pass, even more, there's a stream of fuel being hosed in to be carried along with it, which reduces the chance of that debris coming out of suspension so it can't lodge against the intake tract or port.

You will always find the occasional case where the entire intake port is covered. Usually this is from an oil burning low rpm engine. The oil is often from intake reversion and the build up is often from that oil combined with constant low rpm. (Low airspeed)

Hope that makes sense.

Shane.
« Last Edit: May 29, 2015, 12:34:31 PM by Footy Shorts Shane »
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Offline prodigyrf

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Re: Anyone know where I can get the triton de-carboned
« Reply #32 on: May 29, 2015, 11:26:02 AM »
Best post I've seen is a long time and even a mechanical dummy like me understood.


Here's another analogy and recommendation for you-
http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=39512.msg726997#msg726997
There's no Great Evil conspiracy against consumers within engineering, manufacturing and supply. Just the many tradeoffs incurred to satisfy diverse tastes, priorities and wallets. But first comes all the insatiable Gummint eggsperts, nanny-staters and usual suspects.

Offline BaseCamp

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Re: Anyone know where I can get the triton de-carboned
« Reply #33 on: September 07, 2015, 02:34:54 PM »
okay - so I've followed this thread from my other post...     And Shane - a big thank you for the 2 excellent analogies about the ear and the stream...

But the truth is I have no real idea about what anyone is talking about here??..    I am 95% sure the symptoms my truck is displaying matches what's being discussed in this tread..

Is it possible that you guys could give me a step by step about what to do; to get my rig all smiling again...

From reading the posts - I have done a kind of summary below - which could be totally on the wrong tangent in any case...

Here goes anyway - but please give me the experts' version of my ramplings below....   Many thanks!    And please keep it real basic for my zero knowledge..   :'(


Perhaps (a correct version of) something like this - please.

1.  Avoid the dealerships because they will charge you $2k because due to environmental issues - they cant cope with a more cost effective way.

2. Go see this guy or workshop:- a; or b; or c - etc
(I am based in Brisbane, fyi).

3.  Ask for the manifold to be removed and blasted clean..

4.  Make sure they will use the following method / technique xxxxxxxxx - as this will create the best result / and look after you triton the best

5.  Get the plug thing taken out - as this is causing the problem.

5. Don't get the plug thing taken out - because it will cause ??

thanks
BaseCamp

Footnote - my MN Triton is out of warranty - exp Dec 2014.. LOL  :'(







You get out and in to the world -- you take more @#&$. …You climb a little higher, ..you take less @#&$.  …Till one day -- you're up in the rarefied atmosphere -- and you've forgotten what @#&$ even looks like….  Welcome to the layer cake son.

Offline 4wd26

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Re: Anyone know where I can get the triton de-carboned
« Reply #34 on: September 07, 2015, 09:00:41 PM »
the MN manifold is a Shit of a design
you can get your mechanic to "clean" and they open it up swirl a screwdriver around show you a pic of the before and after and you think you have a cleaned manifold.


they only way to get the MN manifold done is chemically, and I don't mean with oven cleaner and pipe brush  :cheers:


this one is cleaned


this one is not

pics used for comparison off tritonwreckers webpage.

so

1.  dealers can do a clean- but how well do you trust them with your $$$ to do it right.
some spray the "ear cleaner" and charge you for it
some clean like I mentioned above a scrap out of the easy to reach stuff.

3.  if you know what you want- request it done properly, you may pay more, but you get a good result

4.  as above- best method is a soak in a chemical bath giving better than new manifolds all the way through

5. not sure what plug, but the triton now has an electronic EGR block, better than a blank as a full blank can sometimes give codes
the electronic block "plug and play" is around $160 or you can cut the factory wires and research and add in a resistor to the intake temp sesor- I like things easy and payed for the plug and play
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Offline johndotcomau

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Re: Anyone know where I can get the triton de-carboned
« Reply #35 on: September 07, 2015, 10:21:50 PM »
..deleted by user..
« Last Edit: September 08, 2015, 11:36:29 AM by johndotcomau »