Hi Phil,
We towed a camper trailer through there 2 years ago in June coming from Alice Springs through Finke, into Mount Dare, Dalhousie Springs and through the Oodnadatta. I had a stock pajero with normal road tyres at the time. I was a newby to this type of travel and got advice from this forum as well and it was well worth it. Couple of things;
* Most important advice I got from here was to cover the rear window of your car. I used two cheap fold up aluminium looking sun shades taped down and glad I did. Lots of broken windows for those who didnt cover up.
* Lower your tyre pressures and drive to the conditions. Be prepared for a puncture and corrugations can get bad.
* 4WD drive only track status really means 4WD only!! If its wet, watch out for the mud build up under your wheel arches. I saw a few Subarus and similar AWD's last a few hundred metres before turning back and waiting until the road dries out
* Thought the burgers at the Pink Roadhouse were overrated and that the ones at William Creek were much better. Must have a beer at the pub there, very friendly...
* If the weather forecast is looking good, its worth a drive out to Dalhousie Springs from Oodnadatta. The Territory would be ok out to there I reckon and its a great spot to camp at, sit in a tyre with a beer and watch the sunset. Kids love the fish nibbling the fingers and toes, as well as dingo spotting.
* Coober Pedy is an interesting place and worth a visit as well.
I had a snatch strap and rope, UHF, basic tools, shovel, spare bearings for the trailer, fuel, water etc and was much better prepared than most others we talked to. I was a little stupid and tackled Kulgera out to Mount Dare via Finke in 4WD only conditions after a few days of rain, and whilst I didnt get bogged, we also had a few moments where I needed to change my jocks and thought I'd be stuck overnight or flip the trailer. Did have lots of fun though.