Another Stihl chainsaw question

[su888]

Need to order a new chain for my stihl 361.

Originally had a stihl chain, but wondering if i should replace with something else? (Carlton or Oregon seem to most reputable other brands).

Bar has printed on the side, 16 inch, 0.063 pitch, and 60 (Assuming thats DL or DP bit confused by that).

Due to timing and requiring it before the weekend, I'll be looking at ebay to purchase.

[VKPrado]

Oregon or Windsor are what I use on all my saws and never had an issue.

[Bird]

if you buy from US you can get a bar and chain for nearly chain price here...

[Jason B]

Stihl dealer should have a roll of Oregon chain in stock. They will knock you one up on the spot, which would be quicker than waiting for post.

There are a few tricks that you can use depending on what you are cutting. You can use a slightly smaller chain and get more teeth/cutters per length. Some of the Forresters I know do this.

Js

[austastar]

Hi,
  go for a chain with 'chipper' teeth for general use, or 'chisel' teeth for good solid green timber.


cheers

[Thawed]

I ditched the Stihl chains long ago in favour of Oregon. 
Just keep what ever you get out of the dirt and touch it up before it goes 'dusty'.
Steve

[rodw]

I bought a Stihl a good few years ago and I have not worn out the original chain yet. Unless it is not a suitable profile to do what you are doing, just use it till you can't sharpen it any more and save your money. You'll probably get 10 years out of it for home use. Don't forget to turn the cutter bar over each time you service the saw so it wears evenly.

[D4D]

I ditched the Stihl chains long ago in favour of Oregon. 

x2 Oregon cut heaps better and keep their edge longer.
I just bought this kit, you'll need the 16 inch version http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121078330202

[rodw]

x2 Oregon cut heaps better and keep their edge longer.
I just bought this kit, you'll need the 16 inch version http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121078330202

No need for a cutter bar when changing the chain over when buying a brand new saw. A chain in its own is probably only $50.

So D4D did the replacement chain you bought look the same as the one on the saw or did it look different? Eg. Was the tooth cutting angle and profile the same? Some saws come with chains designed to cut softwoods when what we want to cut is (very hard dead) hardwood which requires a different chain that has a more aggressive tooth profile. In my case, the saw had the correct chain. Also if swapping over to a new chain, you may notice a difference in cutting if you have never adjusted the depth gauges which need to be filed down as the tooth wears.

Don't confuse chain types and incorrect sharpening with chain brands!

[bobkay]

I use em for a living and buy it by the 100 ft roll. Another brand of chainsaw is my preference but I still run Stihl chain (have to change the bar to take 063 gauge).
Better steel, holds it's edge longer in the same conditions IMHO.

Different profiles and pitch is another question as is saw brand of preference.

Feel free to contact me for any questions U may have.

Cheers
Bob

[Brumbypt]

I use em for a living and buy it by the 100 ft roll. Another brand of chainsaw is my preference but I still run Stihl chain (have to change the bar to take 063 gauge).
Better steel, holds it's edge longer in the same conditions IMHO.

Different profiles and pitch is another question as is saw brand of preference.

Feel free to contact me for any questions U may have.

Cheers
Bob

I have a husky with an old bar and I should really get the stihl chain next time..

anyway I have been told the stihl bars wont work on the husky as the oil hole is in the wrong spot??
Is this correct or what?

its a husky 365. 20 in bar etc.


iPad with IOS 7.0.3 using Tapatalk HD

[D4D]

Don't confuse chain types and incorrect sharpening with chain brands!

Hi Rod, I have my chainsaw ticket and have been using a saw for over 20 years. In that time I have cut a few things and learnt how and what to sharpen...

[rodw]

Hi Rod, I have my chainsaw ticket and have been using a saw for over 20 years. In that time I have cut a few things and learnt how and what to sharpen...

I think we all have some expertise to contribute in this area. In my case it has been 33 years initially on a daily basis. Back then, the chain saw ticket did not exist so I don't have one or the required  leather chaps to go with it. I fail to see what somebody who buys a top class brand needs to rush out and replace a perfectly good chain and cutter bar. I think that this is born out by other posts from professional users who prefer the Stihl chain. Back then the standard chain supplied is quite different to what it is today and I remember being amazed the difference a chain designed for hardwood made in Aussie conditions when they first came on the market.

Perhaps I was a bit cynical in my response but the point remains that if you compare a used chain with a new chain and the old chain has not been properly maintained, the chances are it will seem that the new chain is much better when the issue is one of poor maintenance.

Please accept my apologies if I offended.

[Jason B]

Chain maintenance is the key, there is a technique to sharpening them, but for me the trick is not to let them get to dull before you give them one or two licks with the file. If you get the angles right they cut straight and true time after time. The trick is applying even pressure when filing as most of us are stronger on one side so you have to be mind full not to over do it on the strong side.

That my words of wisdom. I to have a ticket,  use them for work only occasionally now mainly for track clearing and wish I still had a wood fire.

Jas

[bobkay]

I have a husky with an old bar and I should really get the stihl chain next time..

anyway I have been told the stihl bars wont work on the husky as the oil hole is in the wrong spot??
Is this correct or what?

its a husky 365. 20 in bar etc.


iPad with IOS 7.0.3 using Tapatalk HD

Hi Peter, that is true even when interchanging bars on saws of the same brand as well to a certain extent, similar models can interchange bars so long as the pitch is the same on both drive sprockets. You will be able to get an Oregon bar to suit your saw and to take Stihl chain, sorry I'm not familiar with that model off the top of my head but Stihl .404 and 3/8 pitch chain is 1.6mm (63 thou) thick at the drive tang (the gauge). Husqvarna are generally 1.5mm (58 thou) gauge at that pitch. When you want to run the Stihl chain, U need to upgrade to a bar with the relevant gauge. Oregon make such bars. Oregon, as you probably already know, are an aftermarket company who make replacement parts for most brands of saw.
I hope that's helped, I'm semi retired now and rather then use em, I train chainsaw operators these days from basic crosscut to problem tree felling. If there's any interest I might arrange a day in the new year where members like yourself could come along and I'd go through the basics for you, show you how to service, sharpen and maintain them and basic crosscut principles. As Rod has said, often the problem is not the quality of the equipment, but the lack of experience or knowledge of the operator.
One last thought to leave you with, the chain travels at around 110kph, the reason you care about that is that means 600 teeth per second will be going through your flesh should you come into contact with the moving part of the chain, the average number of stitches required are 110. Sorry, that's a bit of trivia I give my students at the start of the course and just to prove my point, a mate of my sons sent through some graphic pics of last weekends camping. Sure enough the saw touched his thigh and he needed 40 stitches internally and 60 externally, (chainsaws don't cut flesh, they tear it).

[rodw]

One last thought to leave you with, the chain travels at around 110kph, the reason you care about that is that means 600 teeth per second will be going through your flesh should you come into contact with the moving part of the chain, the average number of stitches required are 110. Sorry, that's a bit of trivia I give my students at the start of the course and just to prove my point, a mate of my sons sent through some graphic pics of last weekends camping. Sure enough the saw touched his thigh and he needed 40 stitches internally and 60 externally, (chainsaws don't cut flesh, they tear it).

Good  to see a safety message on this thread.

The chain touched my flesh in the first week of using one 33 years ago and imparted a lesson I'll never forget. Very lucky to get a glancing blow. I don't think I got stitches but that was a rarity 90 miles from the nearest doctor! I've so had a chain break and wrap around a branch, seen the sun glinting on the cutter bar heading towards my head after a kickback and been knocked off my feet with saw in hand with the tree canopy over my legs. That was all par for the course cutting scrub to feed dying sheep in a drought. The little trees move so quick, you get more time felling tall timber if anything goes pear shaped. A cut is only one of the risks you face when you start a saw....

If you buy one and don't do a course, at the very least find a copy of the Stihl video that comes with their saws and watch it a couple of times. It covers all of the important issues and risks. I will say I am never keen on starting the saw by my side. I much prefer to have it on the ground secured by one foot and a strong grip with one hand. It is hard to get your foot on some of these small saws though.