Relocating spare wheel to tailgate

[Brucer]

I am thinking about modifying my Outback Birdsville camper by relocating the spare wheel from the drawbar to the tailgate. The reasons for doing this are a) lower the ball weight and b) create space for a mesh woodbox on the drawbar.
Some trailers put the spare on the tailgate standard so I am wondering if there are any disadvantages to doing this. I can see it would be best to place the spare as close to the hinged side as possible, which also means moving the number plate and light. The hinges are welded to the trailer frame and look pretty strong. The tailgate also supports a Drifta DSO kitchen full of gear which when closed rests via nylon skids on the trailer floor, but put all load (including spare wheel) goes to the hinges when open, albeit only when stationary.
Any thoughts?

[muzza01]

One advantage is moving weight from FWD to AFT. One disadvantage is that you may need to open the carrier to gain access to the back of the CT.

This can be done using a wheel hub welded to the CT or by a simple join using a bush.
Mine is the latter version but it needs to be modified to improve its operation before I do any serious off road work.

[MDS69]

Whilst you have the welder out fabricating the spare wheel mount perhaps add facilities for a stabiliser leg on the lock side of the tailgate to support when open.

[GeeTee]

Is there space underneath for the spare?
Placing the weight of the spare down low, close to the axle centre-line and supported directly by the chassis is far better for balance/handling etc than 40 kegs high, out back and vibrating on a door/rack/hinges.
The forces involved are enormous 

[Brucer]

Is there space underneath for the spare?

I'll have a look but I doubt it. There's a water tank mounted towards the back, so the spare would have to go forward of that. There's also the difficulty of getting to the spare under the trailer. I can imagine some situations where there is little or no clearance for retrieving it, but certainly with considering. Your point concerning the stresses was my main concern re the tailgate option, and yet I see many CT's that do exactly that.

[GeeTee]

it's far easier to winch and slide a spare wheel than lift it and joggle it onto a frame

[BigJules]

No room underneath and it will impede clearance too much.

I looked at it when I had a Bridsville, I think you'd need to put on at last one extra hinge and two over centre catches to hold the tailgate when driving. The fitment of the additional hinge would mean there is no requirement to support the tailgate when setup. Possibly a flat section on LHS that supported the weight when closed would also be a good idea. It is a fairly easy change to make the kitchen wall fit around the tyre, just install a zipper to close the access slit once fitted up.

[TOPNDR]

I reckon a swing-away spare carrier might be the go, though I'm not familiar with your model van.

[KingBilly]

I have the spare mounted on the tailgate of my Customline.  The tailgate has a small support on the latch side.  It also has two over centre latches to support this side when closed.

KB

[KingBilly]

Some other photos which may help you

KB

[Brucer]

Very good KB.. thanks for the pics.. most informative.
re: BigJules comments re the kitchen wall.. I had completely overlooked this. Sounds like more trouble than it's worth. I hadn't counted on having to also modify the canvas. Then again I have so far not used the kitchen wall, or any annex walls so I suppose it would not be so bad to remove the spare in the event I actually use the kitchen wall.

[KingBilly]

Yeah mate, I like the way Trackabout does their kitchen wall.  They have a zip or velcro (can't remember) which allows the wall to open up for the wheel and then seal around it.  The wheel sits outside the awning wall.  My Customline does it differently.  They sew some gussets into the vertical ends of the kitchen wall and the wheel sits inside the awning.  Works OK.  Maybe you have enough room not to have to worry about modifying the kitchen wall.

KB

[02-SR5]

If you want to do this on the cheap and still maintain strength, grab a spare wheel carrier of a patrol. $20 from the local wrecker, or free if your patrol mate is getting a rear bar.

Bolt to the tail gate with big washers in the inside.

I did this with my GIC camper. It will take the standard 6 stud wheel patern.

Instant rear mounted spare wheel.

[Alan Loy]

I have not seen this done but I wonder if the spare could be made to fit behind the mudguard (I think there is a gas cylinder there on your camper). 

It might take some modifications but you could support it underneath and bolt it to the wall.  Secure fitting and easy access.

You would need to move the tail lights I think and find somewhere for the LPG cylinder

[Redcherokee]

We ran not some folk at Mungerannie with a swing away rear tyre holder n their Sturt.  I took a few pics, as we have considered doing this mod. I am sure I have seen pics of other Sturts with it done.

Wil see if I can dig out the pics over the weekend for you.   

[KingBilly]

If you want to see a swing away rear tyre carrier, have a look at a Modcon CT

KB

[Alan Loy]

One of the big issues with rear wheel carriers id the extra weight that you're adding just to hold the wheel (anyone know how many kg of steel?)

In one of the photos on their website it looks like they have a spare wheel sitting vertically between the frame http://www.outbackcampers.com.au/gallery_birdsville.asp (left hand undercarridge)

Maybe if the spare was vertical you would have space for the woodbox.  This doesn't solve the tow ball weight issue however

[GeeTee]

If you want to do this on the cheap and still maintain strength, grab a spare wheel carrier of a patrol. $20 from the local wrecker, or free if your patrol mate is getting a rear bar.

Bolt to the tail gate with big washers in the inside.

I did this with my GIC camper. It will take the standard 6 stud wheel patern.

Instant rear mounted spare wheel.

That's not a bad idea but you need to make sure the tailgate, the tailgate hinges and the side of the trailer are all strong enough to cope with the mass of the spare. A 30kg spare tyre etc puts enormous strain on these components, especially as its up-and-down movement is magnified by being far behind the trailer axle centre-line which is why there are so many heavy bars/braces/reinforcements required... which adds weight to the trailer

I wouldn't be trusting just two studs in a horizontal arrangement to carry a wheel

[Brucer]

In one of the photos on their website it looks like they have a spare wheel sitting vertically between the frame
....
Maybe if the spare was vertical you would have space for the woodbox.  This doesn't solve the tow ball weight issue however

My spare is already vertical. The Birdsville pictured with horizontal mounted spare has no toolbox whereas mine does, so I suppose this is a standard modification that Outback do when toolbox option is selected. I bought mine used so these choice were all made by the original owner.
The combination of toolbox and spare (vertical) leaves insufficient space for a wood box and even if there was space, the resultant increase in ball weight is undesirable.

Thanks for all the replies. The information is very helpful.

[02-SR5]

That's not a bad idea but you need to make sure the tailgate, the tailgate hinges and the side of the trailer are all strong enough to cope with the mass of the spare. A 30kg spare tyre etc puts enormous strain on these components, especially as its up-and-down movement is magnified by being far behind the trailer axle centre-line which is why there are so many heavy bars/braces/reinforcements required... which adds weight to the trailer

I wouldn't be trusting just two studs in a horizontal arrangement to carry a wheel

It did work, but considering it was a GIC trailer, it didn't matter if it didn't work anyway. I had nothing to loose.

Not saying it is ultimate solution, it's just another option.

Rob