We must have been lucky in regards to campsites. Not once did we have to confront anyone camped on our sites. In fact, we found most NP campgrounds half empty, but I guess that was due to people booking days either side just in case.
Eliot Falls was the only NP campsite where we even saw the ranger. We even went in search of the ranger at Lakefield/Rinyirru and couldn't find anyone anywhere.
The pre-booking system isn't ideal, but unfortunately that's what we're stuck with.
A few here on Myswag said they'd just set up and plead ignorance if anyone turns up, so you may end pulling into camp and finding yourself having an impromptu Myswag get together
Most of them could probably be bribed off your site with some beer
if you really wanted to get rid of them
There's a whole thread somewhere on here about people's experiences and thoughts from last year, so I won't babble on with it all here again.
Eliot Falls was one of our favourite spots, and I wouldn't hesitate to book there again. Being able to walk down to a variety of falls and swimming holes with the kids at any time of the day was the best part. Sunrise, sunset, and several times in between, and know that they were all safe and croc free. The ranger checked the sites here daily, and between him and his two offsiders, had no problem moving people on who hadn't booked.
Punsand Bay was also a highlight. They're under new management this year(apparently very good operators, they also run the Cape Tribulation Camping Ground), and the place is getting a spruce up. They also now have beer on tap.
If you absolutely want to stay at a particular place, and get a good site, then I'd book ahead. Seisia looked packed to overflowing July last year, yet on the other hand when one of our crew broke down, we managed to get last minute beachfront sites for five families at Loyalty Beach on the spot. Punsand Bay was also pretty full, but I'd booked very early(Jan) as we had a group, and we got amazing, absolute beachfront sites. Some late comers I spoke with were given sites way up the back in the bush and they had a slightly different experience to us, but enjoyable none the less.
North of the Jardine, there are so many options that if one place is booked out, there are several other great alternatives. Alau Beach at Umagico was a welcome last minute surprise, and the free camp out at Mutee Head is stunning. The beach at Somerset is also another good free option(and there's a toilet there).
On the way up, the Cooktown Big4 was booked out. After arriving on dark at The Bend free campsite north of Coen we found a few random spots amongst the masses to squeeze into, and heading back south mid/end July, we pulled in late afternoon to the Lions Den Hotel and squeezed onto the last patch of grass in the campground there.
It does pay to get to camp early if you want to get a site.
As for booking, it all depends on your travelling style and to some extent, your luck
I pre-booked a lot because I was trip planner for six families, most with kids, and we wanted to camp together. I'd probably wing it a bit more if it was just us, but then again, I am a bit of a control freak and a stickler for the rules, and because we tend to travel late into the day and not set up camp early, I like the comfort of knowing we have a spot for the night.
A little off topic, but if you're planning to do any tours like the Thursday Island or fishing charters, Guurrbi tour etc... you may want to ring ahead and see how many spaces are available. The TI ferry was fully booked when we were up there, though admittedly it was school hols, and we couldn't get onto a fishing charter anywhere on the Cape. In fact several companies in Weipa were booked out 9 months ahead.
As the others have said, you're in for an amazing trip. There's not a bad spot up there. I wish I was going back up now.
Cheers
Karen
