Winch - how is your wired ???

[Jason B]

Duel batteries and winches came up in discussion last night at the 4wd club meeting. The majority of the members in the club have their winch wired to their main battery, not to the auxiliary battery.

Mine in the 80 series is wire to the auxiliary battery (how it came). They claimed that the main battery was the preferred option because the alternator current goes straight into this battery, therefore giving it the the most charge from the engine when under load.

Is this sound reasoning?

How is yours wired to main or aux batteries?


Regards


Jas

[Bigsteve]

Mine was going to be wired just to the main, but I've fitted a 300amp constant current battery selector switch that will allows me to use either or both batteries in parallel.

Also doubles as a way to jump the main when flat from the aux.


Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2

[D4D]

Main for me, if your aux is a true deep cycle you'll kill it pulling high winching Amps out of it. Now if I had 2 Optima batteries then I'd use either.

[BigJules]

I thought it was accepted practice that the winch runs off the main battery. Winches requires lots of amps and quickly, something a deep cycle is not suited to.

My dual battery system allows me to link both batteries to provide more amps if required.

Will it be difficult to re-wire Jas?

[Jason B]

I thought it was accepted practice that the winch runs off the main battery. Winches requires lots of amps and quickly, something a deep cycle is not suited to.

My dual battery system allows me to link both batteries to provide more amps if required.

Will it be difficult to re-wire Jas?

No mate not difficult to re wire. Mine are 2 x century lead acid batteries. My isolator is the old school can type, so when the ignition is on the batteries are linked any way.

I might re wire it to the main on the weekend, unless this system (considering my isolator and battery type) is acceptable.


Regards


Jas

[BigJules]

To my limited understanding isolates are basically the same, ie charge the 2nd battery once the voltage of the starter rises above a threshold, usually more than 13V. Given you have two cranking batteries, for now, it might not make much difference.

Does the main battery receive charge faster from the alternator? If yes, that would be a reason to change the wiring.

I had a standard battery as the auxiliary in an old Cruiser but it wasn't effective in running the fridge and died pretty quickly. I replaced my last deep cycle with a Supercharge 105Ah or 120Ah? Lead acid deep cycle for less than $150. It has been terrific.

[britts]

I've just wired mine to the main

[GGV8Cruza]

Wired to the main, the hand throttle is always turned up when winching and always work in the winched cycle parameters. I have the redarc between my batteries, i am not sure but if I got desperate i could link the two together in an emergency. The other month the winch worked for a 2.5 hour recovery with stops in between and the battery survived it well, not so the winch in the end

GG

[Jason B]

To my limited understanding isolates are basically the same, ie charge the 2nd battery once the voltage of the starter rises above a threshold, usually more than 13V. Given you have two cranking batteries, for now, it might not make much difference.

Does the main battery receive charge faster from the alternator? If yes, that would be a reason to change the wiring.

I had a standard battery as the auxiliary in an old Cruiser but it wasn't effective in running the fridge and died pretty quickly. I replaced my last deep cycle with a Supercharge 105Ah or 120Ah? Lead acid deep cycle for less than $150. It has been terrific.

Thanks Big fella


I will have a look at the specs of the batteries. They are both lead acid centuries, not sure of the amperage. I thought one was a deep cycle but on appearance alone they look identical.

I believe that the crank battery would get the charge first. With the can type solenoid I have, I think it just isolates the start battery when the ignition is off. Im pretty sure that when the engine is running and the ignition is on that they are connected in parallel and both charged.

I am happy to be corrected.

Sorry about the quality of the photo, I don't have any of the isolator at the moment.


Regards

Jas

[D4D]

As you have 2 identical cranking batteries, they look like Overlanders, it doesn't really matter as long as your isolator can handle the high current charge that will be going to the aux battery.

[Jason B]

As you have 2 identical cranking batteries, they look like Overlanders, it doesn't really matter as long as your isolator can handle the high current charge that will be going to the aux battery.

Any ideas of the amperage D4D. I use these for my fridge but mainly its only turned on when travelling (75lt auto fridge) so I very rearly if ever draw them down.

Regards

Jas

[D4D]

They're probably these http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/search/index.php/batteries/ID-91

Looks like they have updated to maintenance free design hence yours have caps.

[Jason B]

They're probably these http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/search/index.php/batteries/ID-91

Looks like they have updated to maintenance free design hence yours have caps.

Thanks Mate 


What does it mean by amp hours N/A 

[D4D]

They're not designed to be a deep cycle battery. I'd say work on 80-100 AH

[oldblade]

I just installed one of those as my main battery

[singo-26]

They're probably these http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/search/index.php/batteries/ID-91

Looks like they have updated to maintenance free design hence yours have caps.

They have changed the design of the battery, the new ones are not maintenance free, the caps are under a lift up panel on one side of the battery.

[geordie4x4]

I have my winch wired from both the main starting battery and the auxillary battery.

Both are the same type of battery, which are dual purpose starting and reserve capacity (which is not quite a deep cycle).

I have used a normal ARB smart solenoid to charge the batteries but also wired up two high cranking amp boat battery switches and wires from both batteries. 
This way i can:
1 winch from only the main battery
2 winch from only the aux battery
3 join both batteries for winching
4 join both batteries for starting

have a look at this thread for a photo.

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/auto-electrical-37/winch-running-off-battery-54306/

[Matto]

With the can type solenoid I have, I think it just isolates the start battery when the ignition is off. Im pretty sure that when the engine is running and the ignition is on that they are connected in parallel and both charged.

I would agree with you Jas. They'd behave just like one big battery.

I'm with the others, I've got my winch wired to the main battery. I've got the ability to connect the main to the Aux around the isolater - it wouldn't be my preference to do this for winching, but it's certainly possible. I've started the car off the Aux before - again, not good for a DC battery, but it managed it fine and hasn't seemed to have affected it.

As GG has said, I think that so long as the car is running, if you stick to the winch's duty cycle, then your alternator is going to be able to make up the shortfall in power supply pretty quickly. The trouble comes in when you need to winch for a long continuous time for some reason, or if the motor has stopped and you've only got the one shot at getting out. But in either situation, you're going to be in a "do whatever you need to and bugger the consequences" type of mood, if it's serious enough that you can't just secure the car and go get help.

Reminds me, I need to rewire my winch...

Good luck!
Matto

[Jason B]

Thanks Matto and geordie4x4.


Here is a picture of my isolator. I can't see anything written on it. So can anyone tell what sort of amps it can handle?

I believe that my set up will be OK as long as the solenoid can handle the current flow from the main to the Aux battery when I am winching. Whilst it may not be best practice to have the winch wired to the Aux battery, due to the fact mine is a lead acid battery I don't see too many disadvantages leaving it as it is (I would change it if I go AGM).

Sure the Aux battery may not get a charge as quick however when I have the ignition on I am able to draw from both of them. If I need to isolate the main battery, if the engine is off for example (eg in water) I can do this by simply turning off the ignition. 

Appreciate any advice.


Regards

Jas

[Matto]

Hey Jas,

Looks like this type: http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page81.html

DUAL BATTERY SOLENOID / ISOLATOR
12V 100 AMP CONTINUOUS DUTY
600 AMP SURGE

There's a number of them that are basically the same. I wouldn't change your setup. I wouldn't worry about the isolator. If you're drawing over 600A, your alternator won't be able to keep up with that, and it's probably a good indication that you should be using a snatch block to ease the load on the winch anyway.

The only thing I do know about that type of isolator is that there's a "right way up" for them to go, and roughly 50% of units aren't installed that way . To do with making sure the drain hole is to the bottom, so it doesn't fill up with water/condensation, and then rust the solenoid shaft shut/open. Of course, I have no idea which way is up.

Good luck!
Matto

[Jason B]

Cheers Matto