Post by: Andreweasty90 on May 27, 2015, 05:58:12 PM
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Post by: champin on May 27, 2015, 06:42:39 PM
Post by: dazzler on May 27, 2015, 08:49:06 PM
Post by: jwb on May 28, 2015, 04:48:07 AM
It was $660.
Nothing wrong as yet but I suggested he gets this done ASAP
This was from a workshop in Moss st Slacks Creek
Cheers
Post by: 4wd26 on May 28, 2015, 06:25:09 AM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/27/4d3b696b2474136690261558252abc8f.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/27/26d521c8342f863dfd217afbf2da5cd2.jpg)
I'm in Brisbane
Post by: Andreweasty90 on May 28, 2015, 06:34:00 AM
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Post by: Andreweasty90 on May 28, 2015, 06:36:17 AM
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Post by: aussieducker on May 28, 2015, 11:54:43 AM
Post by: Green rv on May 28, 2015, 12:29:52 PM
works a treat
DIY for under $25.00
:cheers:
Ads
Post by: Andreweasty90 on May 28, 2015, 01:06:01 PM
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Post by: 4wd26 on May 28, 2015, 02:29:42 PM
just something to think about spraying anything into the "inlet manifold"
might be something to use as a preventative maintenance measure from new :angel:
Post by: Green rv on May 28, 2015, 02:36:17 PM
where does all that carbon end up :cheers:
just something to think about spraying anything into the "inlet manifold"
might be something to use as a preventative maintenance measure from new :angel:
straight out the exhaust system
does not contaminate any other part of the engine
the only thing i would be sus on is if the car has a DPF but again it should be fine as it would be burnt off in its next cycle
i use it in my hilux as a preventative measure . saying that the hilux isn't renowned for carbon build up. but the difference it makes WOW
:cheers:
Adam
Post by: 4wd26 on May 28, 2015, 02:40:52 PM
straight out the exhaust system
are you sure......
the carbon comes from being introduced into the inlet manifold through the exhaust gas recirculation system so that noxious stuff can again go through the combustion process
so if you dislodge particles where does it end up- even if you clean built up gunk from the past 60,000kms :cheers:
Post by: prodigyrf on May 28, 2015, 03:23:36 PM
Post by: Footy Shorts Shane on May 28, 2015, 03:40:12 PM
From the guys I saw on YouTube (MRT and someone Thornton performance they hook up a injector style machine to the throttle body and it sprays a solution in on pulses and cleans it's out and they show before a and afters and it's clean probably not 100% like changeling it out bit for 700 and two hours seems like a better option and the engine light has cleared itself now
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You've mentioned engine repairs aren't your thing, so I'll use almost 30 years of engine building experience to explain it, simply :D
Consider that intake manifold as your ear. In your entire lifetime, your ear has never been cleaned of any build up. It's full of waxy, greasy, gritty, oily, crunchy crud. Heaps of it. So you go to the Doc, he cuts your ear off, sends it to 4wd26 who then starts the cleaning process.
Depending on the ear crud you have accumulated over the years, no doubt this process starts with a scraper, digging out the loose build up. Then of to a cleaning solution to dissolve the bulk of the crud. Quick smash with a pressure cleaner then off to a bead blaster for an entire clean back to bare skin.
After a blast, your ear will be inspected for any other damage, checked for straightness, a final wash and sent back to the Doc. (I'm only assuming this is what he does :D )
So the Doc then stitches your ear back on and your as good as gold for another many more years. Happy days :cheers:
Or, you could go to the markets, visit someone in a marquee. He sits you down, connects a can of cleaner up to your ear, and slowly injects it down, to wash all that crud.......... Out through your nose!
Now you know this isn't going to work well, you know it's going to hurt everything between your ear and your nose, but hey, it's cheaper.
So your eyes water, your throat hurts and you can taste that abrasive cleaner and crud combination. You think 'how can I taste this stuff? It went in my ear.......'
Same thing happens in your engine. It goes everywhere!
Your valves, seats, rings, guides, bore, oil, bearings etc, will hate your guts for doing this to it. It goes everywhere through your engines respiratory and cardiac systems. It's hurting it.
All that carbon and oily crud is a byproduct of combustion. It didn't burn the first time, it won't burn again. Your engine 'passed it' like a bad stone, don't make it pass it again, it's painfull.
My suggestion is to remove your engines ear, get its wax cleaned out, refit the ear and do away with the EGR, so it doesn't have ear wax issues again. I'm a non believer of ear cleaner in a can.
Shane.
Post by: Green rv on May 28, 2015, 03:45:34 PM
are you sure......
the carbon comes from being introduced into the inlet manifold through the exhaust gas recirculation system so that noxious stuff can again go through the combustion process
so if you dislodge particles where does it end up- even if you clean built up gunk from the past 60,000kms :cheers:
i wouldn't be to worried about the egr side of things as only about 10% of the gases are recycled
i do love this product and give it a big thumbs ups
if you want to do the test and post you unbiased thoughts and pics here i would be glad to send some out to you.
would be good if you have a inspection scope to show/see the difference
:cheers:
Adam
Post by: jetcrew on May 28, 2015, 03:47:48 PM
You've mentioned engine repairs aren't your thing, so I'll use almost 30 years of engine building experience to explain it, simply :D
Consider that intake manifold as your ear. In your entire lifetime, your ear has never been cleaned of any build up. It's full of waxy, greasy, gritty, oily, crunchy crud. Heaps of it. So you go to the Doc, he cuts your ear off, sends it to 4wd26 who then starts the cleaning process.
Depending on the ear crud you have accumulated over the years, no doubt this process starts with a scraper, digging out the loose build up. Then of to a cleaning solution to dissolve the bulk of the crud. Quick smash with a pressure cleaner then off to a bead blaster for an entire clean back to bare skin.
After a blast, your ear will be inspected for any other damage, checked for straightness, a final wash and sent back to the Doc. (I'm only assuming this is what he does :D )
So the Doc then stitches your ear back on and your as good as gold for another many more years. Happy days :cheers:
Or, you could go to the markets, visit someone in a marquee. He sits you down, connects a can of cleaner up to your ear, and slowly injects it down, to wash all that crud.......... Out through your nose!
Now you know this isn't going to work well, you know it's going to hurt everything between your ear and your nose, but hey, it's cheaper.
So your eyes water, your throat hurts and you can taste that abrasive cleaner and crud combination. You think 'how can I taste this stuff? It went in my ear.......'
Same thing happens in your engine. It goes everywhere!
Your valves, seats, rings, guides, bore, oil, bearings etc, will hate your guts for doing this to it. It goes everywhere through your engines respiratory and cardiac systems. It's hurting it.
All that carbon and oily crud is a byproduct of combustion. It didn't burn the first time, it won't burn again. Your engine 'passed it' like a bad stone, don't make it pass it again, it's painfull.
My suggestion is to remove your engines ear, get its wax cleaned out, refit the ear and do away with the EGR, so it doesn't have ear wax issues again. I'm a non believer of ear cleaner in a can.
Shane.
WELL SAID MY MAN :cup: :cup: :cup: :cup: :cup: :cup:
Only thing i'll add is that Misitsi did heaps and heaps of these under warranty mine inc and you can bet if a can of spray could have fixed they would have found a way... as it cost them some $$$ to them all under warranty and removed them all and cleaned or replaced them ..
Jet ;D
Post by: jetcrew on May 28, 2015, 03:48:43 PM
WELL SAID MY MAN :cup: :cup: :cup: :cup: :cup: :cup:
Only thing i'll add is that Misitsi did heaps and heaps of these under warranty mine inc and you can bet if a can of spray could have fixed they would have found a way... as it cost them some $$$ to them all under warranty and removed them all and cleaned or replaced them ..
Id be taking 4WD26 up on his offer and simply pay a mech to do the swap.
Jet ;D
Post by: Andreweasty90 on May 28, 2015, 03:55:59 PM
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Post by: Andreweasty90 on May 28, 2015, 03:58:44 PM
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Post by: Green rv on May 28, 2015, 04:00:06 PM
well put Shane :cup:
the treebond guys reckon it only goes through the top end
from what i'm lead to believe threebond made this originally for subaru for the boxer engine
also that it is in the subaru service schedule every 16000k true untrue i don't know
:cheers:
Adam
Post by: Bookleaf on May 28, 2015, 04:17:31 PM
We take off the manifold and clean it, but surely the head inlet ports are also gunked up.
It seems to me that this part never gets cleaned, but surely it to is restricting airflow.
Why does the inlet ports not get cleaned also?
Is it that it is just too hard to get to the ports?
Post by: Spada on May 28, 2015, 04:22:46 PM
You've mentioned engine repairs aren't your thing, so I'll use almost 30 years of engine building experience to explain it, simply :D
Consider that intake manifold as your ear. In your entire lifetime, your ear has never been cleaned of any build up. It's full of waxy, greasy, gritty, oily, crunchy crud. Heaps of it. So you go to the Doc, he cuts your ear off, sends it to 4wd26 who then starts the cleaning process.
Depending on the ear crud you have accumulated over the years, no doubt this process starts with a scraper, digging out the loose build up. Then of to a cleaning solution to dissolve the bulk of the crud. Quick smash with a pressure cleaner then off to a bead blaster for an entire clean back to bare skin.
After a blast, your ear will be inspected for any other damage, checked for straightness, a final wash and sent back to the Doc. (I'm only assuming this is what he does :D )
So the Doc then stitches your ear back on and your as good as gold for another many more years. Happy days :cheers:
Or, you could go to the markets, visit someone in a marquee. He sits you down, connects a can of cleaner up to your ear, and slowly injects it down, to wash all that crud.......... Out through your nose!
Now you know this isn't going to work well, you know it's going to hurt everything between your ear and your nose, but hey, it's cheaper.
So your eyes water, your throat hurts and you can taste that abrasive cleaner and crud combination. You think 'how can I taste this stuff? It went in my ear.......'
Same thing happens in your engine. It goes everywhere!
Your valves, seats, rings, guides, bore, oil, bearings etc, will hate your guts for doing this to it. It goes everywhere through your engines respiratory and cardiac systems. It's hurting it.
All that carbon and oily crud is a byproduct of combustion. It didn't burn the first time, it won't burn again. Your engine 'passed it' like a bad stone, don't make it pass it again, it's painfull.
My suggestion is to remove your engines ear, get its wax cleaned out, refit the ear and do away with the EGR, so it doesn't have ear wax issues again. I'm a non believer of ear cleaner in a can.
Shane.
Thanks Shane, when you put it like that, makes it easy for us "non-mechanical" type understand ;D
Post by: discoteddy on May 28, 2015, 06:34:28 PM
You've mentioned engine repairs aren't your thing, so I'll use almost 30 years of engine building experience to explain it, simply :D
Consider that intake manifold as your ear. In your entire lifetime, your ear has never been cleaned of any build up. It's full of waxy, greasy, gritty, oily, crunchy crud. Heaps of it. So you go to the Doc, he cuts your ear off, sends it to 4wd26 who then starts the cleaning process.
Depending on the ear crud you have accumulated over the years, no doubt this process starts with a scraper, digging out the loose build up. Then of to a cleaning solution to dissolve the bulk of the crud. Quick smash with a pressure cleaner then off to a bead blaster for an entire clean back to bare skin.
After a blast, your ear will be inspected for any other damage, checked for straightness, a final wash and sent back to the Doc. (I'm only assuming this is what he does :D )
So the Doc then stitches your ear back on and your as good as gold for another many more years. Happy days :cheers:
Or, you could go to the markets, visit someone in a marquee. He sits you down, connects a can of cleaner up to your ear, and slowly injects it down, to wash all that crud.......... Out through your nose!
Now you know this isn't going to work well, you know it's going to hurt everything between your ear and your nose, but hey, it's cheaper.
So your eyes water, your throat hurts and you can taste that abrasive cleaner and crud combination. You think 'how can I taste this stuff? It went in my ear.......'
Same thing happens in your engine. It goes everywhere!
Your valves, seats, rings, guides, bore, oil, bearings etc, will hate your guts for doing this to it. It goes everywhere through your engines respiratory and cardiac systems. It's hurting it.
All that carbon and oily crud is a byproduct of combustion. It didn't burn the first time, it won't burn again. Your engine 'passed it' like a bad stone, don't make it pass it again, it's painfull.
My suggestion is to remove your engines ear, get its wax cleaned out, refit the ear and do away with the EGR, so it doesn't have ear wax issues again. I'm a non believer of ear cleaner in a can.
Shane.
:cup: :cup: :cup: :cup:
Shane post of the decade, even my wife enjoyed your explanation!
Cheers,
Disco teddy.
Post by: prodigyrf on May 28, 2015, 07:05:44 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4ABTo42tKA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4ABTo42tKA)
and it seems there are similar DIY DPF cleaning systems too like liquimoly-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=020MdntTw34 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=020MdntTw34)
although that liquimoly kit is over $500 on ebay I noticed and clearly that BG tool for a one off wouldn't be economical but you might like to see if there's a shop around using it. 'Id have to say the use of such systems and products can't be environmentally sound and when you see what California EPA requirements are for cleaning DPFs and proper collection and waste disposal the figures really skyrocket and would only make sense for trucks, etc.
The only question on my mind with that BG cleaner is whether it can tackle really bad clogging at 130000kms or is only useful if it's done at certain intervals say every 50000kms. Still he seems pretty rapt in its effectiveness but it's a very specific delivery system.
Post by: prodigyrf on May 28, 2015, 07:15:35 PM
Post by: dazzler on May 28, 2015, 08:27:36 PM
are you sure......
Its magic - like everything in a can.
It goes into the manifold, washes the gunk, then it disappears and reappears in the exhaust. Dont you know ANYTHING..... :D ;D
Being serious;
I decarboned my old 1kz by stripping the manifolds off. That gunk was on that hard that even soaking in carbyclean for ages and scraping off it took another couple of hours scrubbing with petrol to get it out.
Edit - sorry just found the earlier vid links.
Post by: prodigyrf on May 28, 2015, 09:25:09 PM
That Autoinform vid showing the BG gear no doubt works reasonably well given the pulsed injection method and time period but we certainly don't get much time spent on what's coming out the tailpipe and for good reason. Still if you had a mate with a few acres out the scrub ;D
Post by: Andreweasty90 on May 28, 2015, 09:42:42 PM
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Post by: prodigyrf on May 29, 2015, 12:41:45 AM
As well with oil blowby and EGR to control NOx emissions (and apparently that's still the case with DPFs too) your engine is going downhill in efficiency the moment it leaves the showroom. The consensus is a Provent 200 catch can and Tony's EGR mod because the Provent won't upset Mitsi with warranty but an EGR blank plate will. Tony's mod is easily removed for warranty servicing. Furthermore EGR blank plates are yesterdays and an EGR resistor mod is in because there are other considerations at play-
http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=2477&hilit=decarbon&start=1125 (http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=2477&hilit=decarbon&start=1125)
You know this oiler crap with the lad's new MN Triton is a real nostalgia trip back to the early 80s when they were experimenting on us all with dumping leaded petrol. Had an 81 Toyota Corona wagon with a 2L Starfire mandated Oz content motor (they chopped 2 cylinders off the Holden 6). Came with a carby with that much wires, hoses and crap that looked like it was off a V8 and a compressor that blew extra air down the exhaust manifold, here there and everywhere. So you ripped it all off, blocked up the holes and adapted a dual throat Webber and sports air cleaner just so it would actually idle, accelerate reasonably smoothly and pull a greasy straw out yer backside. Warning lights, limp modes, vac bags up your exhaust and pulling your bloody car apart to clean its gizzards and they call that progress? They need an exploding airbag up em all!
Post by: Beachman on May 29, 2015, 08:15:08 AM
You've mentioned engine repairs aren't your thing, so I'll use almost 30 years of engine building experience to explain it, simply :D
Consider that intake manifold as your ear. In your entire lifetime, your ear has never been cleaned of any build up. It's full of waxy, greasy, gritty, oily, crunchy crud. Heaps of it. So you go to the Doc, he cuts your ear off, sends it to 4wd26 who then starts the cleaning process.
Depending on the ear crud you have accumulated over the years, no doubt this process starts with a scraper, digging out the loose build up. Then of to a cleaning solution to dissolve the bulk of the crud. Quick smash with a pressure cleaner then off to a bead blaster for an entire clean back to bare skin.
After a blast, your ear will be inspected for any other damage, checked for straightness, a final wash and sent back to the Doc. (I'm only assuming this is what he does :D )
So the Doc then stitches your ear back on and your as good as gold for another many more years. Happy days :cheers:
Or, you could go to the markets, visit someone in a marquee. He sits you down, connects a can of cleaner up to your ear, and slowly injects it down, to wash all that crud.......... Out through your nose!
Now you know this isn't going to work well, you know it's going to hurt everything between your ear and your nose, but hey, it's cheaper.
So your eyes water, your throat hurts and you can taste that abrasive cleaner and crud combination. You think 'how can I taste this stuff? It went in my ear.......'
Same thing happens in your engine. It goes everywhere!
Your valves, seats, rings, guides, bore, oil, bearings etc, will hate your guts for doing this to it. It goes everywhere through your engines respiratory and cardiac systems. It's hurting it.
All that carbon and oily crud is a byproduct of combustion. It didn't burn the first time, it won't burn again. Your engine 'passed it' like a bad stone, don't make it pass it again, it's painfull.
My suggestion is to remove your engines ear, get its wax cleaned out, refit the ear and do away with the EGR, so it doesn't have ear wax issues again. I'm a non believer of ear cleaner in a can.
Shane.
Best post I've seen is a long time and even a mechanical dummy like me understood.
Post by: Footy Shorts Shane on May 29, 2015, 10:01:04 AM
A question about this cleaning that I have been pondering over for some time, if I may.
We take off the manifold and clean it, but surely the head inlet ports are also gunked up.
It seems to me that this part never gets cleaned, but surely it to is restricting airflow.
Why does the inlet ports not get cleaned also?
Is it that it is just too hard to get to the ports?
They are gunked up. So too is the intake valve. But 90% of the time they are nowhere near as bad as the intake manifold. There's a few reasons for this. Mostly though, it is to do with airflow and air speed. The injectors also have a lot to do with it.
If you were to think of the manifold as a swollen creek. The creek is wide and deep. There's a heap of storm water in it. Because of the depth and the width, a heap of water can flow through with no problem.
The creek gets narrow as it goes. The speed of the water increases the more narrow the creek becomes. The debris is carried with it.
Same thing happens in the intake of the engine. Where the air enters the intake, the plenum chamber, it is large in volume. The air speed is slow. This air travels toward the intake valve and the diameter of the intake tract reduces, increasing air speed even more as it goes. It travels faster and faster until it enters the combustion chamber.
Back to the creek. With all the flood water comes debris. The debris enters into the wide and deep part of the creek with the slow moving water. It's very easy for this crap to become trapped. One bit lodges against something, it then traps the next bit and so on and so on. It keeps building up. As the water flows through the narrow sections of the creek, the debris that wasn't caught earlier, is carried with the water. It's very hard for it to become lodged against something due to the speed it's travelling at. Sure, a little bit will lodge itself here and there, but most will flow through.
Back to the engine.
The PCV valve and EGR is usually in the plenum. This is where the air speed is slow. So it's easier for the debris to lodge here. As the intake tract narrows the debris is harder to lodge due to speed. Where the airspeed is almost at its highest, is right where the fuel injector Isuzu (petrol engines). In theory, any debris that's in this area, should be suspended in the air travelling stupid fast speeds. To help it pass, even more, there's a stream of fuel being hosed in to be carried along with it, which reduces the chance of that debris coming out of suspension so it can't lodge against the intake tract or port.
You will always find the occasional case where the entire intake port is covered. Usually this is from an oil burning low rpm engine. The oil is often from intake reversion and the build up is often from that oil combined with constant low rpm. (Low airspeed)
Hope that makes sense.
Shane.
Post by: prodigyrf on May 29, 2015, 11:26:02 AM
Best post I've seen is a long time and even a mechanical dummy like me understood.
Here's another analogy and recommendation for you-
http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=39512.msg726997#msg726997 (http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=39512.msg726997#msg726997)
Post by: BaseCamp on September 07, 2015, 02:34:54 PM
But the truth is I have no real idea about what anyone is talking about here??.. I am 95% sure the symptoms my truck is displaying matches what's being discussed in this tread..
Is it possible that you guys could give me a step by step about what to do; to get my rig all smiling again...
From reading the posts - I have done a kind of summary below - which could be totally on the wrong tangent in any case...
Here goes anyway - but please give me the experts' version of my ramplings below.... Many thanks! And please keep it real basic for my zero knowledge.. :'(
Perhaps (a correct version of) something like this - please.
1. Avoid the dealerships because they will charge you $2k because due to environmental issues - they cant cope with a more cost effective way.
2. Go see this guy or workshop:- a; or b; or c - etc
(I am based in Brisbane, fyi).
3. Ask for the manifold to be removed and blasted clean..
4. Make sure they will use the following method / technique xxxxxxxxx - as this will create the best result / and look after you triton the best
5. Get the plug thing taken out - as this is causing the problem.
5. Don't get the plug thing taken out - because it will cause ??
thanks
BaseCamp
Footnote - my MN Triton is out of warranty - exp Dec 2014.. LOL :'(
Post by: 4wd26 on September 07, 2015, 09:00:41 PM
you can get your mechanic to "clean" and they open it up swirl a screwdriver around show you a pic of the before and after and you think you have a cleaned manifold.
they only way to get the MN manifold done is chemically, and I don't mean with oven cleaner and pipe brush :cheers:
(http://tritonwreckers.com/gallery/zp-core/full-image.php?a=general&i=img_2755-1-.jpg&q=75&wmk=%21&dsp=Protected%20view&check=af98b9449eeb80a5f47a2ad0d867b12952e43a50)
this one is cleaned
(http://tritonwreckers.com/gallery/albums/general/img_2139.jpg)
this one is not
pics used for comparison off tritonwreckers webpage.
so
1. dealers can do a clean- but how well do you trust them with your $$$ to do it right.
some spray the "ear cleaner" and charge you for it
some clean like I mentioned above a scrap out of the easy to reach stuff.
3. if you know what you want- request it done properly, you may pay more, but you get a good result
4. as above- best method is a soak in a chemical bath giving better than new manifolds all the way through
5. not sure what plug, but the triton now has an electronic EGR block, better than a blank as a full blank can sometimes give codes
the electronic block "plug and play" is around $160 or you can cut the factory wires and research and add in a resistor to the intake temp sesor- I like things easy and payed for the plug and play
Post by: johndotcomau on September 07, 2015, 10:21:50 PM