MySwag.org The Off-road Camper Trailer Forum
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: tojo100 on June 04, 2012, 10:45:36 PM
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tell us what oil is preferred why?and how long is your service period
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Castrol Magnatec 10w-40 non-diesel, used in my Pathfinder 2.5 turbo diesel R51 auto (non diesel particulate filter model). Change the oil and filter every 10,000km and now has 155,000 without any problems.
Change all other oils (auto box, transfer box, both diffs) once per year.
Diesel filter and air filter every second oil change.
Never changed the cooling fluid - often thought about it, but if its not broke....
Paul
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4x4 is: Ssangyong turbo diesel
recomended oil is: TITAN SUPERSYN 5W-40 (Part No: 3281)
Link: http://www.fuchs.com.au/categories.asp?cID=9&c=4252 (http://www.fuchs.com.au/categories.asp?cID=9&c=4252)
Service Refill Capacity: 7.5 Litres
New oil filter @ each oil change
(I will replace filter @ 5,000 when under severe use)
Vehicle is under warranty, so use the Synthetic oil the dealership puts in there every 10,000 Km
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Caltex Delo 400. I buy it in a 20 litre and change the oil and filter every 5000 kms
Daz
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Caltex Delo 400. oil and filter every 10k for the 100 series TD. 20 litre drums for under 100 from the Caltex distributor, sometimes as low as $80 ish. Cruiser uses 11.3L every change so it pays to grab a couple when they're cheap.
Why? from recommendations from other users, far exceeds the required specs and is cost effective even against the Supercheap catalogue specials.
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Caltex Delo 400. I buy it in a 20 litre and change the oil and filter every 5000 kms
Daz
Me too
GG
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Another for delo 400
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Repsol every 5-10000 kms both oil & filter
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Penrite 20-50
Change my oil and all filters every 5000k's
Why? Because I can...
Bill and Morag
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Vehicle is a Prado KZJ120 we use Castrol RX Super I change the oil and filter every 5000kms plus i change the fuel filter every 5000kms too.
Air filter is a K&N so no need to replace it.
The Oil in the diffs,gearbox and transfer case are all castrol oils and this get changed every year.
Coolant is changed at 100000kms when i do the timing belt.
I also change the brake fluid once a year.
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It used to be Delo 400 for me too but I dont own a diesel now.
All(99%) Turbo diesel vehicles serviced in the workshop get Delo 400 while N/A diesels get Delo Gold.
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Another tick for Caltex Delo 400. Buy in 20l drum from local caltex distributor.
I'm still under factory warranty, and the isuzu handbook actually list specific oil brands to use, Delo 400 being one of them
Need to get service book stamped every 10 thou, but I do a oil & filter change in between.
:cheers:
Nutto
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I use Mobil 1 in my R51 Pathfinder. I too have a K&N air filter, it gets cleaned every 5k, Fuel filter every 5K and oil every 10K.
I do all other fluids as per handbook.
Cheers!!
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Delo 400 changed every 15K. Vehicle is Pajero DiD with LPG injection.
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I use Penrite HPR Diesel in the 80 series. I change oil and filter every 5000km. I do fuel filters, diff and transfer oils every 10,000km also. Because I only use the 80 for trips and its our second car 10,000km takes a while to come around, so its no great expence.
Regards
jas
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Shell Rimula x
Genuine Filters.
5000klms
Oil is cheap, engine rebuilds are not.
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I use Penrite HPR Diesel in my Triton, changed very 5000km with a new oil filter.
Diff , trans and gearbox oils and coolant replaced once a year.
The Triton is not a daily driver and only used to drag the camper or have some fun on the weekends so we average under 10000km per year.
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Nissan genuine oil (Diesel), service interval is 10k, however i do 5k services to include filters.
Swanny
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Delo 400 also, great oil out of many used before it.
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Penrite hpr deisel,I change oil/ filter every 5k,and check oil pick up which is also very important on Toyota d4d engines. Dogdy injectors seals cause them to block up.
"Oh what a feeling"
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Penrite Diesel I think. Every 5000 kms. Well most of the time.
Wayne
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The Jackaroo needs 10-30W or 5-30W oil, so I use Nulon 5-30W Long Life Diesel Oil, changed every 5000km, and both filters get changed as well.
Cheers
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Nulon 15W-40 diesel every 10,000km. Fuel pre-filter, fuel filter, oil filter and air filter all changed at the same time. Gearbox, transfer and diff oils changed every 20,000km with Nulon 80W-90. Coolant changed once a year.
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Delo 400 5000kms and gen Toyota Oil filter...
Only J-Spec Oils for my 1HD-T :)
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Penrite HPR Diesel, Every 5000k's with filter.
I also have 4 magnets around the oil filter.
(http://www.hairfysh.com/images/the80/80slideshow/08.jpg)
Had the Big End Bearings done at 300 000k's, been using the Magnets since the old girl had 245 000k's on her, the Mechanic said the bearings were like new.
So I guess they don't do any harm & cost nothing. ;D
:cheers:
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Fuchs right through with Sakura filters engine at 5000 fuel at 10000 and the rest at 20000
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Penrite HPR Diesel, Every 5000k's with filter.
I also have 4 magnets around the oil filter.
(http://www.hairfysh.com/images/the80/80slideshow/08.jpg)
Had the Big End Bearings done at 300 000k's, been using the Magnets since the old girl had 245 000k's on her, the Mechanic said the bearings were like new.
So I guess they don't do any harm & cost nothing. ;D
:cheers:
Good one Hairs :cup:, I thought I was an odd bod cause I have a couple of old hard drive magnets on my filters. Was never sure if they did anything, but figured it cant hurt :cheers:
Me, I use HPR diesel and change oil and filters every 5000k
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Good one Hairs, I thought I was an odd bod cause I have a couple of old hard drive magnets on my filters.
Was never sure if they did anything, but figured it cant hurt
question: by putting the magnets on the metal filter case, as in the photo, doesn't that hold any metal after it has passed through the filter elemant ? ?
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question: by putting the magnets on the metal filter case, as in the photo, doesn't that hold any metal after it has passed through the filter elemant ? ?
I thought the clean stuff came out the middle, thus the cleaning area is the larger (outer) surface area of the paper element, happy to be wrong though
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I thought the clean stuff came out the middle, thus the cleaning area is the larger (outer) surface area of the paper element, happy to be wrong though
Yes, you would be correct ;D
I always thought the oil was forced out through the centre of the 'hole' in the block, through the filter and returned via the dozen or so holes back to the sump
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Could be correct, I just thought the oil was forced out through the centre of the 'hole' in the block, through the filter and returned via the dozen or so holes back to the sump.
Your way definitely makes more sense to me, as you say to be cleaned by the larger surface area ;D
Just checked a filter after opening my big mouth via the keyboard ;D, guessing a filter is not something that gets a lot of attention on its own,,, and under the little holes surrounding the center one is a rubber non return, so once the oil is in, the only way out is through the center,,, now I know too,,, thanks Mainey :cheers:
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Sorry guys I don't have a picture for you of the inside of the filter taken after 5000k's with the magnets attached.
I cut the filter apart and found a browny/grey stain mark on the inside of the filter case where the magnets sat.
Found this picture on the net of the flow of oil through a filter.
(http://www.synlube.com/images/OFc3r.jpg)
The oil enters the oil filter under pressure through the holes on the perimeter of the base plate. The "dirty" oil then passes through the filter media where it is "cleaned". It then flows to the central tube and back into the engine through the usually threaded hollow center mounting stud.
(http://www.synlube.com/images/oilsyslgf.gif)
the only thing that magnets are good for is the removal of ferrous i.e. magnetic particles.
The only additional benefit is derived chemically but ONLY in a low quality lubricants.
This can in turn extend the service life of a lubricant with ineffective or marginal anti-oxidants.
Here is how it works:
Sub-micronic finely distributed iron particles act as a co-catalysts in oxidation of petroleum molecules
Removal of these fine iron particles from oil circulation, reduces the oxidation rate and therefore extends lubricant service life.
No special "MAGNETIC MAGIC" performed here, just a simple chemical reality!
Picture and quote taken from.
ALL ABOUT OIL FILTERS (http://www.synlube.com/oilfilters.htm)
:cheers:
Below is a Ryco filter. I use a Z334 on my 1HD-T.
(http://www.rycofilters.com.au/img/diagram/oil-good.png)
Ryco FAQs[/color]] (http://www.rycofilters.com.au/products/faqs[color=red)
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Shell Rimula x
Genuine Filters.
5000klms
Oil is cheap, engine rebuilds are not.
X2 oil and filter every 5k without fail. Fuel filter and air every 10k. Tranny full synthetic every 60k. Coolant every year and diffs every year. Over servicing never hurt anything.
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100 series 4.5 petrol
Penrite 20w60 (used to be 20w50 but they call it a PLUS 10 now) every 5000Kms
Genuine Toyota filters every 5000Kms.
I run 2 air filters .1 for blacktop work and one for dirt roads, same toyota filter i just keep one clean and one for dirty work.
Jet ;D ;D
EDIT- sorry just read the tittle properly ...you have a petrol DIC# Head...sorry
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Sorry guys I don't have a picture for you of the inside of the filter taken after 5000k's with the magnets attached.
I cut the filter apart and found a browny/grey stain mark on the inside of the filter case where the magnets sat.
Found this picture on the net of the flow of oil through a filter.
(http://www.synlube.com/images/OFc3r.jpg)(http://www.synlube.com/images/oilsyslgf.gif)
Picture and quote taken from.
ALL ABOUT OIL FILTERS (http://www.synlube.com/oilfilters.htm)
:cheers:
Below is a Ryco filter. I use a Z334 on my 1HD-T.
(http://www.rycofilters.com.au/img/diagram/oil-good.png)
Ryco FAQs[/color]] (http://www.rycofilters.com.au/products/faqs[color=red)
I'm sure my old Holdens spat the oil OUT the hole that's at tehe centre of the filter...?
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Rubia TIR 15/40 from total oils along with new filters @ 5000 k.
Been using it about 3 years now in my 1HDT-FE with no issues along with good pricing.
:cheers:
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Cheapest name brand non recycled oil that meets the (insert manufacturer) engineers specs.
Changed as per (insert manufacturer) engineers service schedule.
Nothing more - waste of money
Anything less - reliability issues
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Cheapest name brand non recycled oil that meets the (insert manufacturer) engineers specs.
Changed as per (insert manufacturer) engineers service schedule.
Nothing more - waste of money
Anything less - reliability issues
X2
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Cheapest name brand non recycled oil that meets the (insert manufacturer) engineers specs.
Nothing more - waste of money
Anything less - reliability issues
That may be the same oil (Kmart/Coles special) I used in my Toyota diesel
Would change it maybe a couple of times a year (max)
the Toyota did 600,000Km plus when I traded it ;D
was still getting good fuel economy, indicating motor still had good compression.
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Rimula x, 5000k oil change.Motor not touched in 25yrs toyota 2H
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The lad's a sparky and bought an import Hi-Ace 3L TD AWD a couple of years ago, the AWD to go surfing and get in and out of the new building sites. (As a tradey you want your tools close but if you've driven dowhill on a clay site and it starts to rain the 2WD boys are out in a flash moving their vans up to the road for the obvious) Anyway I was checking the Toyota Super Custom sites for info(Jap Owners Manual) and there was some interesting info re oil and oil filters, etc. Anyway the Sakura filter it came with was pooh poohed as not fine enough, along with a few other name barands surprisingly as owners had cut them open to check their construction vis a vis genuine Toyota. The OEM had a dual stage filter as has the Ryco z334 so after a couple of genuine Asia Toyota filters off ebay, Ryco it's been since and clearly the price and weight of the Ryco cf Sakura(and no doubt other cheapies on ebay) tells the story. So !0K intervals with any rated CW15 40 it is.
Bear in mind here many manufacturers are lazy and specify 5K/6months largely for Northern Hemisphere markets with snow and ice and if you're not careful and read your temp/viscosity chart you'll probably run too low viscosity. As well manufacturers are always trying to beat green regs and hence using thinner oils (engine drag) which then requires expensive additives to compensate for loss of base mineral oil lubrication and welcome to synthetics to make those green stars. Re intervals bear in mind my missus Mitsi Colt specifies 15k or 12months while her friend's Mazda 3 specifies 5k or 6 monthly. bWhile the missus drivesaround 15k/yr on 3.5L of oil in her shopping trolley, her girlfriend is miffed because she's luck to do 5k a year and those service reminders seem a bad joke. You're not seriously telling me Mazdas and Mitsis run differently on modern oil technology in Oz surely? Mind you that 1.5L CVT Colt is the most fuel efficient petrol motor for its capacity bar none that I can tell but back to diesels.
Diesel oils are all high detergent to keep the diesel carbon in suspension which is why it's black as soon as you put it in while my LPG Commode' 20W50 is still a nice straw colour at 10k. They both need replacing at the same time however, providing that diesel filter has had a very good secondary microfine filtration in it. Black diesel oil is fine as long as those particles are microfine and the oil hasn't run 10k in our mild climate and all those fancy low viscosity synthetics are a waste of dough unless absolutely specified. read your manula and temp/viscosity range and don't be suckered. You don't really think truckies change their oil every 10k do you? They are very particular about their pre-filters and filters though.
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With apologies for the typos. I'm a pecker with big paws and the eyes aint what they used to be.. err.. well you know what I mean :-[
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No doubt in future you'll be heeding Big Brother's digital nagging tailored specifically for you and your driving and there'll be no more discussion about such matters -
http://www.thedrivingmachine.com/mercedes-benz-flexible-service-system/ (http://www.thedrivingmachine.com/mercedes-benz-flexible-service-system/)
Either that or your bus cuts out , the doors lock, the lights start flashing and you're suddenly surrounded by environazis wanting your credit card :police: