Solid wood putty

[Bird]

So I've got some of these things in my storage unit, but they have ripped out of the wood..


I tried Spakfiller at recommendation of the cockhead at bunnings but i puttied up holes a week ago. cheked it tonight and I think the t-nuthingy will just rip and not bite.

Anyone recommend something that will set HARD enough for the nut thingy to grip??

[Supersi]

Builders bog

[Rumpig]

Edit...didn't read the whole post as i missed the refitting bit, thought you were just filling the hole....what exactly does / is that thing going to be doing? What exactly is it anchoring into already...real timber or chipboard, whiteboard, mdf?

[GGV8Cruza]

What are they holding onto, can you relocate them to a different position at all.

GG

[speewa158]

Soooo Big Bloke what are you trying to set the thread lock into    . Plaster board , timber , steel  . Come on Fess up  so we can help you                   

[GBC]

Sika supergrip or sika f40 superglue should do it.

[Bird]

so the board is 9mm ply, and it bolts to the floor of cargo area.
Then the storage unit bolts to that in 6 places.


I could possibly relocate, but thought this might be easier...

reading the bog Shit, it sounds like it would work... - maybe not?

[Cruiser 105Tvan]

So I've got some of these things in my storage unit, but they have ripped out of the wood..


I tried Spakfiller at recommendation of the cockhead at bunnings but i puttied up holes a week ago. cheked it tonight and I think the t-nuthingy will just rip and not bite.

Anyone recommend something that will set HARD enough for the nut thingy to grip??

Spakfilla is good for plaster and non-load bearing situations.  Same as putty.
PM Hairs and speak to him.  Supersi isn't wrong either.
That T Nut has to be on the outside of the wood it is fitted to.  Think of it as a washer on a nut.
With the bolt passing through the wood into the T nut and then tightened.

I'd be redoing the whole sheet of ply that you have as the baseboard.
The bit that's damaged.  You could use the old bit as the pattern, and you have the fixings in the old bit.
In a thicker sheet also.  Obviously 9mm. isn't doing it. 
Probably cost less than using bog or glues and all sorts of special stuff.

(MDF is NOT wood, because MDF is just compressed powder.)

[Raym]

I take it that they haven't pulled right through. Maybe drill the bottom side out with a forstner bit, larger in diameter than the trashed area to the depth of the trashed area then plug with solid timber. Plane/ sand flat,  redrill to suit T nut & reinsert. That is how a blacksmith would do it 

Might be able to match a bit to a bit of broom handle or turn a piece on a lathe.

[glenm64]

Or fix them in place with an epoxy like West System.

Cheers Glen

[Rumpig]

Or fix them in place with an epoxy like West System.

Cheers Glen

I was thinking maybe epoxy them also

[marvellous_matt]

could you upgrade to the next size?

[Hookie]

I would also go with an epoxy. If you're too tight, wood glue mixed with sawdust might be worth a go.

[Troopy_03]

I agree with Cruiser 105, spring for a new piece of ply of at least 12mm. Use the old piece as a template to drill the new piece.

[DrewXT]

New ply and bolt it down to t-nuts in more than 6 locations...

Most likely it's torn out because it was moving

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[paul.o]

What they said. There's a good chance the 9mm would be flexing also, making things a bit worse.

[Bird]

Thanks for the hints and tips.
The unit has been in the car for years, and I could just get another chunk of wood... see how we go. Also its not weight bearing.



The storage unit just basically sits on this board which lives in the car 24/7 and, and is held in place by 6x small L brackets with 1x5mm bolt each..
This makes for quick removal to allow to carry Shit in the rear cargo area.

It  hadn't moved in years, but the small bolts had been changed a few times.

[Cruiser 105Tvan]

I'd go a bigger bolt and T-nut too, but that's juz me.

[corndog]

Could try fixings for screw on table legs, can get them from Bunnings or manufacture something similar.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/leggz-5-16-zinc-vertical-leg-plate_p3940080

[Alan Loy]

Could try fixings for screw on table legs, can get them from Bunnings or manufacture something similar.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/leggz-5-16-zinc-vertical-leg-plate_p3940080

I like this idea, what about a nut welded (or glued) to a piece of plate? 

Am I right in assuming that the 9mm board is a merely a way to connect the storage unit to the anchor points if so then a more direct connection may solve your problem.  Only worth thinking about if you start replacing the board or similar.  It would almost become a new project (bit much for one rivnut  )

[Bird]

Am I right in assuming that the 9mm board is a merely a way to connect the storage unit to the anchor points

correct.

The current system is perfect - works brilliantly - 10yrs or more now .
I just needed something to fill the holes so the nuts would bite in again

Nothing else needs modifying

[Bookleaf]

I am assuming you have access to the underside of the 9mm board.

- Out of sheet metal, make about 2" washers - either disks or squares. Dill a clearance hole in the middle for the bolt that normally goes in the Tnut to go through.  Drill smaller clearance holes around the edge of the washer for new securing screws/bolts to go through
- lay the Tnut flat on the washer and align the central holes up.  Weld the Tnut to the washer.
- Put the new nut back in its normal place, secured with lashes of epoxy between the board and the washer plus screws or bolts+nuts in the small holes.  Fill in, from the top, any broken wood or gaps around the Tnut where the Tnut goes through the wood. 

When the glue dries, the Tnut should be in its original position ready to take tension again.  Minimum extra thickness underneath and rotational forces now taken up by the glue and the small screws/bolts around the edge of the washers.

Simples!

[slave]

New piece of ply would probably be the quickest, easiest way to go

[kylarama]

T nuts will always eventually strip in timber with repeated tightening / loosening.

Epoxy is the best bet to refix the T nut.

Alternatively drop into a plumbing supplier and get some hanger plates like the below pic. Drill out the T nut hole big enough for the nut diameter and fix the plate to the underside of the ply.



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[whitey1]

Won't a new bit of ply be cheaper and easier than buying new fixings and or special epoxy glue?