Author Topic: New to 12v fridges. (Read 21254 times)

Barry G · « **Reply #25 on:** January 05, 2015, 10:46:09 AM »

With a high amp draw it would also probably be a good idea to increase the size of the wire from socket to fridge.
Prefferably 8 gauge (8B&S) IMO. (Remember, 8B&S is thinner than 6B&S - as the Standard Wire Gauge (SWG) is an inverse system - i.e. the lower the number the thicker the wire.)
Even with a new battery it will be prefferable to minimise voltage drop on the wire between socket and fridge, to maximise life of the battery.
Likewise, if there is any distance between your two batteries, I would also connect them with 6B&S wire.

fishfinder · « **Reply #26 on:** January 05, 2015, 10:56:50 AM »

I have a companion it beeps and cuts out at low voltage you can adjust the cut out lower and also the temp I set mine to is a couple of degrees out so I set that a bit lower as well but it has been trouble free so far and I can run for 4 + days off 2 x 100a/h batteries with not having to top up with solar panels

kiwipride · « **Reply #27 on:** January 05, 2015, 12:00:08 PM »

Fish, what cut off did you set it to?

kiwipride · « **Reply #28 on:** January 05, 2015, 12:02:09 PM »

B&B, do you mean upgrade the supplied lead between the fridge and socket?

gronk · « **Reply #29 on:** January 05, 2015, 01:39:26 PM »

Quote from: kiwipride on January 05, 2015, 12:02:09 PM

B&B, do you mean upgrade the supplied lead between the fridge and socket?

A well known fix for Waeco fridges with similar voltage probs was to redo the lead that comes with the fridge..

Cut the lead off 50mm from the fridge end and solder on a new length of 6mm2 twin ( can also be longer if it suits your needs ), then add an inline blade fuse just before a new Merit style plug on the other end...( will also need a merit socket to plug it in ).......this was mainly to remedy the plug with an internal fuse which was prone to have voltage drop issues , but it also overcame the ciggie plug as well (apart from falling out easily, it is another voltage drop culprit )

kiwipride · « **Reply #30 on:** January 05, 2015, 02:17:15 PM »

Seems crazy to me that I need to remake a supplied lead that came with the fridge. But I think that you may be correct. Spoke to Barry at Companion and he was sure (but unconvincing) that the lead is fine and its a battery issue

fishfinder · « **Reply #31 on:** January 05, 2015, 04:29:43 PM »

Quote from: kiwipride on January 05, 2015, 12:00:08 PM

Fish, what cut off did you set it to?

I think 11.4 but just go the lowest see what happens

gronk · « **Reply #32 on:** January 05, 2015, 04:30:47 PM »

Quote from: kiwipride on January 05, 2015, 02:17:15 PM

Seems crazy to me that I need to remake a supplied lead that came with the fridge. But I think that you may be correct. Spoke to Barry at Companion and he was sure (but unconvincing) that the lead is fine and its a battery issue

I'm sure it is a battery issue, but the lead is not the problem, but sometimes it's the plug on the end of it...has it an internal fuse ?

Did you damage the plug at the fridge end ?

Ciggie plugs are a well known problem area for fridges..

Easiest way to check if it's a battery problem is to fully charge the battery........let it sit for 4 hrs ( or 10 or 12 )....check the voltage.....connect the fridge and check the voltage after you turn it on for approx 30 secs.....what does it read ?..........if it drops more than 0.5V then the battery is cactus..

fishfinder · « **Reply #33 on:** January 05, 2015, 04:31:58 PM »

Quote from: kiwipride on January 05, 2015, 02:17:15 PM

Seems crazy to me that I need to remake a supplied lead that came with the fridge. But I think that you may be correct. Spoke to Barry at Companion and he was sure (but unconvincing) that the lead is fine and its a battery issue

I am running the original lead but supply from socket to battery is about 3 mtrs of 6mm twin

fishfinder · « **Reply #34 on:** January 05, 2015, 04:33:08 PM »

on the display when compressor is not running what does the voltage read ?

fishfinder · « **Reply #35 on:** January 05, 2015, 04:42:33 PM »

Quote from: fishfinder on January 05, 2015, 04:33:08 PM

on the display when compressor is not running what does the voltage read ?

just re-read one of your post sounds most likely battery is gone or it could be the lead from battery to cig socket - what size is that ?

oldmate · « **Reply #36 on:** January 05, 2015, 05:31:02 PM »

i have the supplied waeco lead in my car for 5 years. the only time ive had similar issues to yours kiwi, is when my battery was shagged. I still reckon you battery has dropped a cell or 2

Nomad · « **Reply #37 on:** January 05, 2015, 05:54:20 PM »

As Jet and Oldmate have stated your battery is fubarred. Don't worry about the cable now.

Run it as per Jet's recommendation and when you get off the island get yourself another battery and it will be all good.

kiwipride · « **Reply #38 on:** January 05, 2015, 06:19:28 PM »

Heading out fishing tomorrow so I'll try all your suggestions whist I wait for the fish to do their thing.

Will report back

jetcrew · « **Reply #39 on:** January 05, 2015, 06:46:54 PM »

I fully agree that some fridges do need the actual supply lead upgraded ..yes waecos were the real offender for this.

However in this case I don't see it actually making much difference if any at all.

The lead will have a pin configuration into the fridge and unless you are going to remake all of this then simply chopping the lead after the plug and joining it will not help in fact i would argue just introduces another failure point at the connection.

The weaco leads suffered from a poorly designed thermal fuse arrangement and as such the chopping of the lead had more to do with getting rid of this than the cable size, many ppl simply cut the that end off and shortened the same cable with a positive result.

So Id say leave your fridge lead alone.. inspect the ciggy plug connection for any movement and if you wish to and I advise too at a later date simply cut the ciggy plug off and replace with a better plug Anderson etc.

In most cases it is the actual plug as opposed to the cable that is the problem. the cable from the end of your supplied fridge lead to the battery is a whole another issue.

baby it through keeping your voltages as high as you can ..constant small charges are better than infrequent long ones so just run that big 4 wheeled generator every 2-3 hrs for a bit, turn the fridge up when the car is running and turn it down when its not running will also help the battery out.

Best of luck mate

Jet

kiwipride · « **Reply #40 on:** January 05, 2015, 06:59:34 PM »

Thanks Jet. Will try that tomorrow. When you say "turn it up" you mean make it cooler?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

jetcrew · « **Reply #41 on:** January 05, 2015, 07:03:22 PM »

Quote from: kiwipride on January 05, 2015, 06:59:34 PM

Thanks Jet. Will try that tomorrow. When you say "turn it up" you mean make it cooler?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Yes mate ..when the car is running let the fridge run flat out as the alt is supplying the power

Jet

Barry G · « **Reply #42 on:** January 05, 2015, 09:06:03 PM »

Quote from: kiwipride on January 05, 2015, 12:02:09 PM

B&B, do you mean upgrade the supplied lead between the fridge and socket?

Yes, that was what I meant however, from what others have said, you are probably better off just replacing the ciggie plug with a 'Merit' plug and socket. Sounds like the battery is the main problem, unfortunately.

Jon · « **Reply #43 on:** January 05, 2015, 09:06:10 PM »

Jetcrew is right, as are most others on here. Your battery is cactus.
The issue with ciggie plugs and other types with embedded fuses is the fuse contact points will fail when the battery is lowest. Blade fuses are the best by a long shot.

The other thing is as the battery voltage drops, the compressor slows down so your refrigeration effect is reduced and the motor runs for longer, making the situation worse.

kiwipride · « **Reply #44 on:** January 06, 2015, 08:06:57 AM »

Above shows readout on fridge after driving in shift and for 30min or more running on second battery (same as I was using it off the car). As soon as I stopped the car the voltage indicater beeped and the compressor stopped cooling..

The photo above is when I then plugged directly into the car vigour connected to the main battery as you can see it was cooling Nicky with the car running again for another 30mins or more

I am now sitting in the car, turned off and the body thing is beeping constantly again and not cooling!?!

kiwipride · « **Reply #45 on:** January 06, 2015, 08:15:44 AM »

Forgot to set it to warmer one stopped have done that now and I'll see how it goes

kiwipride · « **Reply #46 on:** January 06, 2015, 08:23:06 AM »

Taking it back I guess. Above is after sitting with the car off for 5min and beeping

Nomad · « **Reply #47 on:** January 06, 2015, 06:52:57 PM »

Doe your car turn itself off when the battery gets to a certain voltage? My Prado does.
I think the fridge seems fine and its only the battery that is f&cked. Is there another power source you can plug it into as a test?

Cheers Nomad.

kiwipride · « **Reply #48 on:** January 06, 2015, 07:05:15 PM »

Hi Nomad, yes it starts after the fridge stops, so far I have tried it on the three batteries that I have, but none are deep cycle

Nomad · « **Reply #49 on:** January 06, 2015, 07:18:08 PM »

It doesn't matter if they are deep cycle or not. If the batteries are in good condition they should run the fridge for a decent amount of time in any event. Do do all three batteries do the same thing?

What I mean't about the car shutting down was does it have its own low voltage shut off. i.e if you leave your accessories on, like a radio, does it shut down after a period of time? Alot of modern cars have this so you can't run the battery down.

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Author Topic: New to 12v fridges. (Read 21254 times)