Decision made - The Cruza is booked in for the turbo - Go me go!!!

[JGM]

My 105 had it's turbo fitted by Ray Hall in 2002.

It now has 360000 km and apart from getting the injectors done about 30,000km ago, the engine has not been touched.
Lots of  bits hanging off the engine have been replaced since 300 odd thousand. Starter, alternator, clutch, radiator, air conditioning  compressor, but nothing to do with the turbo.

Currently getting about 14 lts per 100 km without the roof rack and 15 point something WITH the roof rack.

Cheers
JGM

[shanegtr]

I was thinking about going the turbo path on my 1hz years ago. I decided not too. My current thoughts are to replace the 1hz with a 1hd-t. I read plenty of horror stories of turbo 1hz's going bang, but on the positive side they are a hell of a lot cheaper to buy second hand compared to a factory turbo engine. I personally like the reliability of the 1hz in factory form, yep its slow with the CT hooked on but I jsut deal with it now.

And in regards to keeping the boost low, Graeme from G turbo is running around 20 odd psi though his 1hz kits so it will be interesting to see how they go long term. Graeme certainly knows his Shit when it comes to this so I belive the secret will all be in the tune and not the boost pressure

[4runnernomore]

Just do it 

First thing health check. Make sure the motor and fuel system is good.

Second thing, check your finances  don't do it in halves, Denco or DTS systems with intercooler seem to be the go. I had a Denco intercooler system on my 801HZ.  Went like a shower of  but she was breathed on heavily been an ex comp truck. Have your injectors and fuel pump done as well along with your gauges. It is not cheap to be done properly, don't expect change out of 10 k to do it right the first time. My beasty was pumping 17 pound boost whilst returning under 14's on 35's and she was no light weight.

Third thing. Get the fuelling set correctly by some one who knows what they are doing. To little or to much will hurt the engine making for a very expensive mistake 

There is a mob in WA that is getting fantastic, RELIABLE  power out of them pumping a lot more boost than you would think. Fuel to air ratios are the key.

Fourth thing, DRIVE IT  , you will wonder why you haven't done it earlier.

Cheers Chris

[4runnernomore]

This is the mob in WA http://gturbo.com.au/turbo-models/

Cheers, Chris

[dazzler]

I know it will be a lot cheaper to turbo my 105 than buy a new (2nd hand) turboed 4B especially when I have expensive tastes and like the 200 and 76 series. 

After reading some of the posts by those more recently in the know (dave, komaterpiller and 4runner et al) I have probably softened a little.  Most of my knowledge / exp goes back to around 2005 when I wanted to do this exact thing.

So the answer from me would be a maybe. 

It is definitely worth considering all the options before spending so much (up to $10k as suggested).  Have you thought of selling the diesel and going with a petrol instead?  Your diesel will sell at a premium over the petrol so there is a saving.  Put that money towards just the right petrol model in the right condition and away you go.

Our 105 5sp 4.5 returned 16 lphk on the highway and 18 around Hobart.  It would tow our off road race buggy at whatever speed you want and easily pull 140 overtaking slow vehicles through the tas midlands.

Simply on a cost benefit analysis spending 10K to get slightly better fuel economy and less power than the petrol does not make sense particularly when diesel costs on average 3c per litre more than petrol.

I absolutely LOVED the power of our petrol cruiser.

Good luck with whatever decision you make!

[Jason B]

After reading some of the posts by those more recently in the know (dave, komaterpiller and 4runner et al) I have probably softened a little.  Most of my knowledge / exp goes back to around 2005 when I wanted to do this exact thing.

So the answer from me would be a maybe. 

It is definitely worth considering all the options before spending so much (up to $10k as suggested).  Have you thought of selling the diesel and going with a petrol instead?  Your diesel will sell at a premium over the petrol so there is a saving.  Put that money towards just the right petrol model in the right condition and away you go.

Our 105 5sp 4.5 returned 16 lphk on the highway and 18 around Hobart.  It would tow our off road race buggy at whatever speed you want and easily pull 140 overtaking slow vehicles through the tas midlands.

Simply on a cost benefit analysis spending 10K to get slightly better fuel economy and less power than the petrol does not make sense particularly when diesel costs on average 3c per litre more than petrol.

I absolutely LOVED the power of our petrol cruiser.

Good luck with whatever decision you make!

Some good thinking there Dazzler.

These at all the decisions I have had to reconcile before going this way with my 80 Series. I have investigated the other options exactly as you have suggested and had a great and frank discussion with Big Jules about his V8 100 series as a potential vehicle to swap over to. Jules was very honest in his opinion.

With regards to my case my cruiser has just clocked 240k is in good condition and has about $12k worth of options fitted. It's value (being a DX) is probably no more that $12-15k on the second hand market. The turbo system I will fit is $7k. So I did my research looking at vehicles up to $20-25k. There are some around and as you suggest you get a lot more if you look at petrols. However these vehicle also have highish Km's and are an unknown quantity, so they are not risk free either.

I have had the money put aside now for two or three months and have not bit the bullet as I am still umming and arrring about the investment. I realise the turbo will add $0 to the value of my cruiser, and essentially the $7k will be lost. However my vehicle will still be worth $10-15k for the foreseeable future.

So if the intention is to keep the vehicle for 5 or more years is $1200 bucks a year a lot of money in the scheme of things?

Lastly my alternative vehicle is a 200 series GX. Whilst I can afford to borrow the $60k required for a second hand one. The loan payments and depreciation would be more than $7k in the first month, not to mention the additional cost of accessories to get it to where the 80 is now.

I have done 12000 Km's in 2 years in the 80, so I just cannot justify spending the money on a 200. And to be frank have struggled to justify the turbo for the 80. Until I put the KK on the back that is, then it does my head in. But the rest of the time off roading it is perfect as is.

The turbo will go on, but only after I procrastinate for a while longer! If it blows up then I will stuff a 6L V8 in it and be done. I have actually be investigating a 5.7l V8 Gen 3 conversion as it can be done for close to $7k and I would get $3-$4k for the 1HZ.

If only I was younger and had more bogan in me I would have gone this way for sure!

Jas

[DaveR]

I guess by now Muzza you have made some cost comparisons for the various ways to get a result.
I see 3 x ways myself.
1. Turbo and other needs for the TUG as it is now. = $X
2. Swap out the engine for the later model that has the turbo and fit to this tug. = $Y
3. Spruce up the Tug, sell it, buy another with all the trimmings you need and the donk under the hood you looking for. = $Z

Which is the cheapest of the 3? Also, when deciding what is cheapest your time lost for messing about needs to be put into the equation. For me, I have no idea what may be cheapest. I recon it could be worth having a nation wide search for option 3. Never know your luck with that option....
Have you done any pricing yet?

[Diesel Power]

I would go and see Leigh Holman at SVS automotive in Bungalow, Cairns.
He fitted the turbo and intercooler to my old 105 series by the previous owner.
It's a MTQ system using a Mitsubishi TD05 turbo and Safari front mount intercooler running at 13PSI.
Regards

[shaned]

I put up with my HZJ 105 cruiser for about 5 years and it was just tolerable on the highway, load it up with family and camping gear on the roof rack and it was painful, then I bough a camper van and hung it off the back and just became ridiculously slow, not so much on steep hills it always was slow ,but  moderate hills saw it regularly back to 60 with a big line of traffic behind me, (i'd move over as soon as i was able) it could just get to 100 on level ground and the only thing I can recall overtaking EVER, with the van on, was a backhoe!,
The cruiser had a bit of stuff in it and it was everything I wanted in 4by but it just didn't have enough power
I was also anti turbo the 1 HZ and issues with the hilux-ish gearbox was also present in my mind, but I HAD to do something, I was pointed to a reputable turbo fitter in the eastern suburbs of Brisbane and decided the part with the $6K, This fitter also goes thru and check all aspects of tuning, not just give more fuel and a heap of boost, checks radiator and viscous fan, he also fits a low water alarm as standard.
He advised me that a 2.5 inch exhaust would be enough but a 3 inch exhaust would help the turbo spool up at bottom end revs, no real gain with overall power, just helps get there sooner.
Mine is set at 10 psi boost, peak torque is around 1900-2000 rpm.
THE NEGATIVE, it does use more fuel when towing, may be 2-3 liters/100ks more, but a massive difference in towing capability,
You have to really watch the temp gauge, full power such as a mountain climb for extended periods can see the gauge climb, it will stay normal for some time, but once it begins to move it moves quick, same can be said for cooling as soon as the foot comes off, the gauge drops just as quick, MUST KEEP an eye on temps, never ever had a problem with temps pre turbo, but I never ever saw the fast lane uphill either, mind you, any 18 year chick in mums hyundai will still leave you behind at the lights from a standstill with out too much problem, how ever once you get going it moves along alright.
The 3 inch exhaust is a tight fit, sometimes under full power in say second gear, the exhaust just touches the chassis somewhere and give just a slight rattle, not intrusive or annoying, it can be heard, no big deal for me.
I found my fuel economy didn't really change much during the day to day work/school/shopping runs, usually get mid to high 12's/100k,   
My installer advertised 50% increase in power, well he got 85% out of mine(dyno charts to show0, mainly due to the fact he knew how to tune a 1HZ, valve timing and clearances where done as well as fuel timing and mixtures, injector nozzles where also replaced.
I got mine done at 150000,, now has 210000 and I haven't been back, why?, because he done it right the first time.
Would I do it again? YEP, after 5 years without a turbo, getting it done was like getting a new vehicle, I'm much happier with the cruiser I've got, still doesn't match any 3 liter 4 cylinder brigade of today in power or fuel efficiency, but can get along at an acceptable pace even when towing, I have no plans for an update but i'm not completely oblivious to the current crop of vehicles, I drove my fathers 550nm Navara and was very impressed with its awesome (almost addictive) power but I didn't like the auto, didn't like the transfer controls either, (standard on pretty much all 4 by's today), or the way it handled on dirt roads, a lot of new stuff cant have tyre and suspension mods without upsetting some vehicle computer control module.
Breaking gearboxs, cracking heads, cooking motors, all sound a bit like over fueling of perhaps maybe getting a bit greedy with power and pushing things too hard, all this stuff can also happen to un modified vehicles also, I broke the front diff in mine but so have plenty others without a turbo


I'm glad I did mine and apart from having to watch the temperature when towing up long hills, have had zero problems.

Shane



 

[DaveR]

Shane, may I assume you have the 4 core radiator fitted? Temp should rise a bit but then level off until you ease off the gas.

[Steffo1]

I have a '93 1HZ tilley with an after market turbo on it & it eats up & spits out my mates '95 non turbo equivalent. Also have a 3" exhaust.
Steve

Towed this for several hundred highway klms  (well Brissie to Tannum Sands, so not really a highway) & temp gauge didn't move from normal! Sorry I couldn't be of more help Muz!
Steve

[Jason B]

Shaned.

Are you judging your temperatures off the factory gauge? If so it works like this on mine. Mostly my cruiser sits on 76 degrees which is the thermostat temp. The factory gauge shows the normal position from 76 to 98 degrees. It then rapidly rises from 98 to 105 indicating hot.

I have fitted an engine watch dog for $150 which gives real time temp readings. This allows me to keep an eye out as the temp climbs and adjust my driving accordingly.

Jas

[muzza01]

Was he in Anderson St, half way along on the sth side?

Yeah that's him Dave

[muzza01]

I would go and see Leigh Holman at SVS automotive in Bungalow, Cairns.
He fitted the turbo and intercooler to my old 105 series by the previous owner.
It's a MTQ system using a Mitsubishi TD05 turbo and Safari front mount intercooler running at 13PSI.
Regards

I will give him a call tomorrow.

OK guys thanks to all so far. I have certainly got a lot of opinions that I asked for, thanks to all so far.

I can't justify the huge expense of the 1HD or the FTE transplant.  I can't afford a 200s for some time either.

 I have contacted a few places so far discussing their opinions on the setup. I really thi k I am going to go ahead with this. I will keep thi king a out it and I am appreciating all of the feedback and advice. I have also been reading heaps on LCOOL.

This is what I am looking at doing. New injectors, turbo, 2.5 inch mandrel exhaust, boost and EGT gauges fitted.

This is going to cost between $5 and $6K according to quotes.  I have had the Cruza for 5 years now and if I turbo it I will keep it for another five. I had my last Cruza for 10 years.

Everyone I talk to has told me that I don't need a 3 inch system or an intercooled for the setup that I want. This has saved a bit of coin but I am reluctant to spend more than $6k. I will keep yous all informed.  Thanks again. 

[Jason B]

Muzza

Great that you are going ahead as I will be doing the same also. You are right that an intercooler is not required for the 1HZ. It does add $$ and also a bit more power.

I have done all of this research also for myself and have a number of similar threads on here.

For what it's worth I have settled on the Denco intercooled system. $7100 drive in, drive out. This includes, a dyno check prior to any work being carried out, fitting of the system, which includes new manifold, full 2 1/2 inch exhaust, water to air intercooler, full post fitment dyno tune and pump adjustments as required. Should my truck need the injectors or valve clearances done this would be additional.

There are a number of kits I would be happy with, however Denco has received a good rap, produce quality components and there head office is within a 4-5 hour drive of me in Wagga Wagga, so they are pretty convenient.



Jas

[muzza01]

Quotes so far

Turbo place number 1 which is a diesel turbo company.
Denco Turbo fitted for $3850. May need to rework on fuel pump if so could add another $1400. May need injectors done if so $5-600. 3 inch exhaust extra $1000. 
$4850 for turbo and exhaust. 

Turbo place number 2 which is another diesel turbo company
DTS turbo fitted for $3550. May need to service injectors add $600 and he highly recommends that I do 2.5 inch system fitted $640.
$4741 for turbo and exhaust.
$5300 for turbo and beaudesert 3 inch

turbo place number 3. Performance petrol and diesel place
safari Turbo fitted for $3950. Extra $600 if injectors need service but doubts that they will need it.
Beaudesert 3 inch exhaust fitted
$5350 for turbo and  2.5 exhaust
$5915 for turbo and 3 inch beaudesert exhaust

Option four is a mechanic I know very well that has done a few 1HZ turbos
I buy a DTS kit for $2710 a 2.5 inch exhaust kit for $510 or beaudesert 3 inch for $1070 service injectors if needed for $600 maybe $1200 labour
$4420 for turbo and 2.5 inch exhaust
$5070 for turbo and 3.0 inch beaudesert

Option four is my preferred option with turbo place number three my second.
Advice please gents.

[Diesel Power]

Just remember Gentlemen that your manual gearboxes may need work/ replacement in the future as the standard box doesn't like too much power.
Regards
Angus.

[Footy Shorts Shane]

Just remember Gentlemen that your manual gearboxes may need work/ replacement in the future as the standard box doesn't like too much power.
Regards
Angus.

Which box do they run?

[muzza01]

I have the R151. If and when it brakes I will look at the H151 as a replacement.

[jwb]

Just remember Gentlemen that your manual gearboxes may need work/ replacement in the future as the standard box doesn't like too much power.
Regards
Angus.

Same goes with the clutch!

Don't be surprised if a turbo/ic addition makes it slip!
depends on how fresh it is.

cheers

[DaveR]

Valid points about the transmission, however, there is always another side of the coin.
My original gear box has been out twice, once to swap original toyota clutch for heavy duty type at about 100,000 I think, then recently by me as she slipped a bit draggiong the camper over a sand dune. that was at 440,000.
The box has a PTO hanging on the side for the winch, no surgery on it ever.
I think it comes down to how you use it.
PS, Yes, I change gears with out the use of the clutch, a lot.

[aussieducker]

I know you're talking cruisers but just putting a vote for dts kits. I fitted one in my old gq very happy.

[Rumpig]

I have the R151. If and when it brakes I will look at the H151 as a replacement.

i wouldn't stress much about the clutch or gearbox if you're sensible with how you drive. I've had my intercooled turbo set up on my 1HZ for over 6 years now, towed plenty of trailers for work and holidays in that time and am still on the same gearbox. I have replaced the clutch, but that was because i was having some other work done which required the box to come out, so i put a new clutch in just because it was out already.

[Jason B]

 The clutch in mine is factory still at 240,00km. She has done two laps and a Simpson desert crossing before I owned her. I have a slight transfer case leak in the front seal, so when I pull the box out to fix that I will throw a new clutch in then.

I to have the R151 I believe, however I rarely tow in 5th and just poke along. So far so good.

There is always something, my vehicle is 17 years old so it pays to be sensible and realistic. There are plenty of modern hi powered diesels with all the bells and whistles that are spitting gearboxes and engine parts out all over the road that will never make it to the age of my old bus let alone be a viable thing to keep going at that age unfortunately.

Jas

[shanegtr]

Second thing, check your finances  don't do it in halves, Denco or DTS systems with intercooler seem to be the go. I had a Denco intercooler system on my 801HZ.  Went like a shower of  but she was breathed on heavily been an ex comp truck. Have your injectors and fuel pump done as well along with your gauges. It is not cheap to be done properly, don't expect change out of 10 k to do it right the first time.

I agree with your points, and if doing all those items adds up to around 10k, then your not far off a factory turbo engine swap. I know which option I'd rather have.