Show us your bike (bicycle)

[Foo]

Haha, yeah. 

Foo

[D4D]

Bloody hell, that's some small granny gear that would be on there?  Good looking bike too. 

Thanks, 30 up front, 11-42 at the rear, helps with the big hills around my place.

[GBC]

I'm Masters 7 =60-64yrs but turn 60 later on this year. 

Foo

He's 55 so different group. Well done!

[Foo]

He's 55 so different group. Well done!

Thanks mate. 

He would be Masters 6 then. 

Foo

[D4D]

Hardtail upgraded from 3x10 to 1x10 with an 11-42 cassette. 26inch wheels and very light makes it a rocket and fun to ride.

[D4D]

I pinched an idea from GMBN today. Found a perfect container from Bunnos and started to fill it with stuff. It still needs a few things to be complete. Great idea to have a 'one stop box' in the car with everything to get yourself mobile or patch yourself up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oL0urBrM9TQ

[wakychapmans]

what are those odd looking boxes in there?

kinda' look like those old school rubber air hoops we used to use...

what were they called?

toobs or sumthin?

[D4D]

Yup, I tried toobless but she no worky on my trail bike rims. The other toobs are for the missus' bike and my hardtail.

[Paddler Ed]

I don't like wet roads


First puncture in ages on any of my bikes...

[NewieCamper]

I added another 'dead flat tyre just after event' on Sunday. New tyres on for Loop the Lake, managed to split the tube at the valve two days before. Changed tube again, rode 105km and once the bike was parked up at home the tyre went flat, but was good during the ride. It's happened on several MTB marathon events too. Ride for several hours, then find the tyre flat either minutes after the event, or later that day.

[cancan]

I had a flat on the warm up lap of a cyclocross race... fixed and back to the start line just as the race started but had 75 riders in front of me... managed 7th but was hard work...  and another race I got a flat so each lap i stopped and had to quickly pump up the tyre .... now use tubeless

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[Foo]

I had 8 yep 8  flats in 10 days on my road bike, at the start of this year. Ended up changing both front and back tyres, even though I couldn't find anything in them. 😉

Foo

Hurry up corkhead!

[wakychapmans]

2008, my first attempt at the Simpson Desert Bike Challenge.

Lunch time day one, stage one...

Rolled into the lunch stop with a couple of hundred desert thorns in my tyres... some of them had little (red) milky lines of sealant coming out of them. Spun the tyre and used my gloves to scrape the tyre clean. Spun the wheels and all sealed up just fine.

Rode the afternoon stage.

When I did finally get around to swapping the tyres out (months later)... I found 100's of thorn tips inside the tyre casing.

I loves my tubeless.

[rotare]

Maybe a really dumb question..... but isn't the slime type / self puncture repair liquid you put in tubes just the same as what goes into a tubeless tyre set up?

I always read that the advantage of tubeless tyres is that you're less likely to get a puncture because of all the goo running around inside the carcass... so why not run the same in a tube?

[wakychapmans]

Maybe a really dumb question..... but isn't the slime type / self puncture repair liquid you put in tubes just the same as what goes into a tubeless tyre set up?

I always read that the advantage of tubeless tyres is that you're less likely to get a puncture because of all the goo running around inside the carcass... so why not run the same in a tube?

short answer - no.

longer answer - the sealant that is used in tubeless tyres is often latex based and more "liquid" than the old Slime style stuff. It flows easier and actually hardens slightly on exposure to outside air.

There is more to it than that... but that explains it somewhat.

[whitey1]

And the other reason to go tubeless is a reduction in weight. Especially with bigger tyres.

[cancan]

And lower tyre pressure which equals a smoother ride

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[rotare]

So the obvious question (well at least for me!) is why not just run the tubeless liquid in a tubed tyre if it seals good?  Looks like many are already doing this:

http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/videos/cycling-tech/how-to-puncture-proof-your-tyres

I guess if you're chasing every gram of weight savings, having tubes AND the puncture proof liquid doesn't makes sense, but for most riders I'm sure they wouldn't notice the weight increase, but would appreciate having less punctures.

[NewieCamper]

So the obvious question (well at least for me!) is why not just run the tubeless liquid in a tubed tyre if it seals good?  Looks like many are already doing this:

http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/videos/cycling-tech/how-to-puncture-proof-your-tyres

I guess if you're chasing every gram of weight savings, having tubes AND the puncture proof liquid doesn't makes sense, but for most riders I'm sure they wouldn't notice the weight increase, but would appreciate having less punctures.

I did put some in a road bike tube while waiting for some tyre liners to arrive. Seemed to work OK, but gummed up the valve, which meant it was hard work trying to get more air in until it cleared itself. When I say it seemed to work OK, I didn't get any punctures in that tube after regularly getting them on my commute, but it might have been luck.

Tyre liners are another solution to punctures, I've been running them on my road bike and fixie for ages and haven't had a puncture from road debris in them since. Before, I was regularly getting metal fibres from the concrete reinforcing on the cycle path and copping about a puncture a fortnight. I have pulled a few fibres out of the tyres, but they haven't made it into the tube.

[wakychapmans]

So the obvious question (well at least for me!) is why not just run the tubeless liquid in a tubed tyre if it seals good?  Looks like many are already doing this:

well the main reason is that when you get a puncture, the thorn/nail/whatever sometimes leaves the sharp pointy bit actually in the tyre casing.

so the modern sealant (liquid latex stuff) will seal the tube. But remember that the tube and the tyre are individual items that move separate to each other. So yep... the sealant seals the tube. And the thorn/pointy bit, well it just pokes a new hole a couple of mm or so away from the original hole, then again another few mm away and so on.

Anyone who's changed a std tube and forgotten to check the tyre properly for the thorn and gotten 50m up the road while the new tube deflates will know what I mean.

For  general cyclists and run of the mill family bikes... I would recommend thornproof tubes with slime. And if possible tyre liners on HD puncture resistant tyres too. (that's what I used to commute on)

When I was commuting regularly... I ran an internally geared rear hub, dynamo front hub, 29x2.0" Schwalbe Marathon Supreme touring tyres with puncture resistant casing PLUS some old Mr Tuffy tyre liners and thronproof tubes... with Slime in the tubes. Clearly weight was a not an issue or a concern. Getting to work on time without stopping on the side of the M4 or M7 was...

For off road riding on a decent mtb... tubeless all the way.

It's not about weight (though that is a minor bonus) it's about reliability.

[scblack]

For off road riding on a decent mtb... tubeless all the way.

It's not about weight (though that is a minor bonus) it's about reliability.

And its about traction. Lower tyre pressures for MTB riding equals better grip.

Similar to lower car tyre pressures for sand driving, lower bike pressures equals bigger tyre contact patch = better traction.

And also more deformation over rocks etc means less jarring through the tyre = less energy lost.

[D4D]

And its about traction. Lower tyre pressures for MTB riding equals better grip.

Similar to lower car tyre pressures for sand driving, lower bike pressures equals bigger tyre contact patch = better traction.

And also more deformation over rocks etc means less jarring through the tyre = less energy lost.

I'm not totally convinced on this one. I run mostly 30 rear and 28 front on my trail bike. I can run this pressure comfortably with tubes and don't need to drop any lower. I do go to 28 rear and 26 front some times but I find the lower pressure combined with the dual suspension doesn't work for me.

[GGV8Cruza]

I'm not totally convinced on this one. I run mostly 30 rear and 28 front on my trail bike. I can run this pressure comfortably with tubes and don't need to drop any lower. I do go to 28 rear and 26 front some times but I find the lower pressure combined with the dual suspension doesn't work for me.

Depends on how hard you ride and the terrain. I used to get pinch flats a lot due to hitting rocks and roots pretty hard. Now after a ride occasionally I see a bit of goop around the sidewall and the air stays inside. Running the right rim and tyre combo is the key

GG

[D4D]

Running the right rim and tyre combo is the key

I think this is it for me, even with new rim tape my rims still leak air out the spoke nipples, I can hear it.

I guess that means I need a new set of wheels

[Foo]

I think this is it for me, even with new rim tape my rims still leak air out the spoke nipples, I can hear it.

I guess that means I need a new set of wheels

Nah, ya need to go N+1, makes much better sense


Foo

Your worst nightmare is behind you. 😈