The CUB CLUB

[Snow]

Cub Supamatic regal off-road I have. Haven't had the ball weight checked yet. What ball weights you chaps have?

Weighed the Snowcave ballweight not long back and got 135kg. Way too heavy!! Now I have to move the storage box to the rear of the draw bar and move the battery box behind the axle under the bed.

I've been threatening to do that for years now.

[poppasmurf]

The further forward you move something ie the further away from the axle you move something the heavier it will be on the drawbar.  The basic physics. Not the best I could find to explain it.

http://www.enchantedlearning.com/physics/machines/Levers.shtml

Fulcrum = Wheels  ;  Effort = Tow Ball weight  ;  Load = Load 


The further the load is away from the fulcrum/wheel and closer to the effort/tow ball, the more effort is required to lift it, or the heavier the tow ball weight.  This can be counter balanced by have the load closer or behind the fulcrum/wheel.

I am aware of the fulcrum effect mate, but believe I should still be right. If not I'll have to rethink the config. When I can I'll check the ball weight and post it up. Although that might be a while.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Terry W4]

Cub Supamatic regal off-road I have. Haven't had the ball weight checked yet. What ball weights you chaps have?

Weighed the camper tow ball weight on bathroom scales with a fresh full tank of water and much of the gear on board that goes on trips. SHOCKED when it weighed in at 130kgs.  Specifications for the Supamatic Regal Off-road say tow ball weight should be in the range 85-100kgs.  This was without two 20 litres Gerry can - 1 for extra water and 1 for fuel)but with a bit of stuff in the tool box.  The Gerrys will weigh 40 kgs and I could expect to load about 30 kgs of food and other gear. This might add about 10kgs to the tow ball weight.

Now my Prado has a Gross Vehicle Weight of 2990 kgs.  When I weighed the vehicle last week with full fuel and all the drawers full and the fridge and other extras in the back it came to 2550 kgs.  With me, my wife and daughter totalling 230 kgs and the 140 kgs of ball weight this just leaves me with a margin of 70 kgs for 'carry on luggage and the dog!

Close but bugger it!

Not sure how much the trailer weighs in total but assume out of factory at 900 kgs (it has 17" wheels) and battery added later, and other stuff stored under floor and in the kitchen, it is likely to go 1100kgs. Well within the Combined Gross Weight of 5400 kgs. 

[Brooklyn]

Hello fellow Cub owners! I have the Supamatic and we can't seem to find a way to set it up that doesn't result in these folds in the canvas that run across the side of the tent. It makes it a bit hard to zip open and close the door. I had previously thought it was because our rear tent now was a bit bent, but we had that replaced and it's still an issue.

 Has anyone found a solution to it?

[Snow]

The annoying thing with the tent set-up on the Cub is there are so many variables that go into to getting the perfect set. So much so I don't think a perfect set is possible.
From you pic I would say that there is not enough extension on the rear tent bow. This can be hard to achieve because you are fighting the weight of the whole tent. To assist I and a few other Cub owners have made supports that lift the front bow up and push the tent weight to the rear. This helps get the tension right across the top of the tent with the centre bow before setting the rear of the tent. Without them the tent just flops back toward the front of the camper.
I think they are a standard fit to new Cubs now, if not, they should be.
Check out the link to my camper thread in my Signature line. In it there are pics of the supports. 

[Herks]

Hi
Follow these simple steps.

1  set up the trailer with all the press studs done up and make sure the winch strap is loose
2  try and do the door zip up as best you can
3   release both the front and back bows about 6 inches
4  adjust the centre bow to the correct height so that the canvas sides at the centre are firm but not too tight.
5  now push the rear bow out as firmly as you can, this is important, and lock in position.
6  now push the front bow out firmly but not too far. Note that if you push hard enough the rear floor will start to rise, you don't really want this.

Your tent should be the correct shape and the door zip should be OK.
practice this to get it right!!

As for the front supports, a good idea but don't really do much for the problem you have. the front supports help with the annex where people put too much tension on the annex poles which tend to pull the front of the tent down. it's all a matter of getting the setup right without overdoing it.

NOTE  This is what CUB call a Tent Reset, not something you do every day but only when needed,

The biggest cause of most tent setting issues is that people don't push the rear bow out hard enough, you won't hurt it!!!

Good luck

Ta
John

[Brooklyn]

Thanks for the instructions and suggestions @snow and @herks. We will give it a try and see how it goes.

As a side note, I don't think the front supports are standard as yet. We got our Cub about 4 months ago.

[Terry W4]

OK. I have a 2007 Cub Supamatic Off-road. The kitchen has a griller.  It works well. But I can't for the life of me work out how to use the two stainless steel brace thingies to make it work properly.

Any pics or suggestion most welcome.

[Herks]

Hi Terry
Not sure what you mean by stainless steel braces??? can you show us a photo or explain further??

Ta

Herks

[Terry W4]

Hi Terry
Not sure what you mean by stainless steel braces??? can you show us a photo or explain further??

Ta

Herks

Sorry about that. Can't take a pic of them. The beast is buttoned up in a narrow carport.  But I have made a drawing of what they both look like. I have a normal grill which sits in the grill pan but to get toast done I found I have to sit the griller on a upturned dish to get the grill close to the burners. I suspect that these two funny devices are designed to help me.

[Herks]

OK Terry

I think you are referring to the chrome trivet which sits inside the grill pan.

The Trivet has 4 little feet (as per your drawing) on both sides, one in each corner.

These feet are longer on one side then on the other so by simply turning the trivet over you effectively raise the height as well.

One the long side the top of the trivet is flush with the top of the grill pan and on the short side the level is half the depth of the grill pan.

I suppose there is nothing stopping you from also turning the grill pan upside down as well if you wanted but just keep an eye on what you are doing as this is not what it is designed to be/

Ta
Herks

[alnjan]

G'day Cubbers,

Hoping someone can answer me and give some hints etc to see if my plans will work.  Having been think about this for a little while. Being an older cub there is only the slide out kitchen no pantry. 

What I want to do is move the current slide out kitchen as far forward as I, making as big a space as I can for a slide out pantry next to it. 



At present the taps and water line take a bit of space and may only allow me about 4cm to move.



The panty side is clear to the other side where the water tank filler is



Unpacked everything from the camper to review what is in there, what we don't use, what we are replacing etc.  Now before I start undoing anything, can anyone tell me what this box on the right side of the kitchen is?  Is it just a cover over the slide to stop things falling onto the slides? 



Can I remove the covering and can I get the kitchen to slide out further?

[FlyingBushPig]

Pretty sure it's just a cover. The new ones have a folded metal one.

[Herks]

Hi Al

Firstly you have  a couple of issues.

1.   Your kitchen track appears to have collapsed, That is why the marks on the bottom centre of the door. I can see that by the fact the front edge of the kitchen is sitting on the floor and you would have to lift the kitchen up before pulling it out, there would also probably be a lot of grinding and such as well.Unfortunately not an easy thing to repair without the correct gear.
I see you are from Coffs but I know Cub is Sydney can fix this for you in less then a day. Maybe an appointment when you are down this way some time. Or at least contact them for some good advise, I have always found Ross to be quite helpful.

2.   The wooden cover at the rear is as you said.

3.   The kitchen will only come out as far as it does now. If you want it further out then the tracks will need a redesign.

4.   You can move the kitchen over as far as clearance will allow you too.

5.   If you fit a pantry then the wooden box will have to be widened to cover the pantry tracks as well. Both the kitchen and pantry tracks are longer so as to allow stability (some of the track is still inside the trailer) when fully extended. This is why both pantry or kitchen don't go full width.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
[/quote]

[alnjan]

Thanks Herks,

Yes the slide does need lifting and is a bit on the average side. 

I have heard of Sydney, down south isn't it.

The whole camper could do with a bit of make over.  Trouble is we are unsure to do a rebuild to get what we want or just get a new/newer one with what and how we want it already there ready to go.  If you know what I mean.

[grizzly]

G'Day Cub Swaggers
I opened up the Spacematic today to air it out and check for water ingress, all good in that department ,however when closing it up the pole carrier fell off.
Very lucky it happened at home
Has anyone had a similar issue and how did you fix the problem,
Our Cub is  built before the aluminium checker plate roof/floor 2006, I was thinking of fitting a chequer plate floor any sugestions
I will post photos when I figure out how to,
Grizzly 

[alnjan]

Will wait for your photos.  Still to make up the pole carrier and mount it

[simmo]

Hi fellow cubers,
I am new to the cub club and have found allot of the posts very helpful.
Early December my wife and I bought a 2003 supamatic regal. It has had a bucket load of use before us but in ok condition.
We have used it twice both in very heavy rain fall. The first time it leaked in both the corners off both front and back bows.
After some helpful advice from Cub about the way i set it up i chose not to put seam sealer on it. The second effort i carefully set the camper up re-setting it and i was happy with it.
After a fair bit of rain it we had a leak in only one corner (but enough to wet the bed). so i put some seam sealer on inside and out side off the front seam. It did help as it rained for the next 30 hrs with out a leak. We packed up in the rain and after getting home and setting the camper back up i found puddles of water on the tarp i put on the bed and on the side of the bed.
The canvas on the roof looked like the water had seeped through.
So if i may ask?
Has anyone had the same leaks
Has anyone waterproofed the canvas on their Cub? (cub is suggesting i don't do it)

Or does someone Know a camp spot where it doesn't rain?
Any help or comments are much appreciated

Cheers Simmo

[beigewagon]

Hi Simmo,

We have been fortunate enough to have only been out in the rain a few times. We have found when touring, and having to pack up early each morning, even the dew can be enough to cause concern about a damp or wet bed by evening.

We have found that by fitting a waterproof mattress protector we keep any dampness or other dirt off the bedding. We have used a queen sized mattress protector over a caravan double mattress and bedding. When travelling we make sure the doona/blankets and pillows are covered before packing up.

I have only once seen a small pool of water on the protector after pack up in moderate rain, but the bedding was completely dry underneath.

Beigewagon.

[KingBilly]

Or does someone Know a camp spot where it doesn't rain?
Any help or comments are much appreciated

Cheers Simmo

Your location added to your profile would help when making suggestions

KB

[simmo]

Thanks Beigewagon,
Is your protector canvas?

Cheers Simmo

[Terry W4]

Any cub users who put a large tarp over their camper including the annex? Would love to see pics of set up and any tips on how you deploy it given the top of the camper is so high.

[outbackogre]

We were at Inverloch (Vic south east coast) a couple of weeks ago during the most amazing thunderstorm with horizontal rain.  I think it was the heaviest downpour I've ever camped in.  No water came into the camper.  The only leak was through the zipper between camper tent and awning.  The water poured down the outside of the camper and entered the open kitchen hatch, but this was soon mopped up after the storm.  The flap over the zipper seam seemed inadequate but it was an amazing amount of water, so hopefully this will not be a regular occurrence.  A large tarp over camper and awning would have kept us dry but is a lot of effort and requires a lot of extra gear.  Food for thought.

[speewa158]

Any cub users who put a large tarp over their camper including the annex? Would love to see pics of set up and any tips on how you deploy it given the top of the camper is so high.

Hints & tips
l mostly leave the annex zipped on to the CT , so when packing up it folded over the roof . l have tied 2 thin ropes on to each pole eyelets at each end . when its time to pack up these get tossed right over the roof so l can pull the canvas over , the only real snag is the height of the ridge so we push up with a broom  . l would do the same with a trap then add poles & ropes if required 

[Brooklyn]

Any cub users who put a large tarp over their camper including the annex? Would love to see pics of set up and any tips on how you deploy it given the top of the camper is so high.

Terry I have been wondering the same thing as we are getting soaked in Tassie. I find the camper does fine with one day of heavy rain, but by day 2 the volume of rain cause minor leaks in the corners of the camper and overall the dampness makes things feel wet throughout the camper. During a long night of rain, I started wondering if a tarp over the whole thing would help too... In addition to wishing for sun