What size power lead?

[outback jack]

for years i've carried around a 15amp power lead, made up an adaptor to suit when a 15a power is not available in a c/park, and when i think about it i cant remember any c/park that does not have 15a

i'm not a sparky but cant see any reason why you cant "shave" the earth plug to suit when necessary

[staghornflat]

Go into any caravan park and see how many 15 Amp extension leads are in use, I would suggest it's a very low %

Question: how many guys here use a 15 Amp extension lead in caravan parks

All the leads in our trailer are 15Amp

[Humbolt]

All my leads have 10A plugs and are 1.5mm H/D flex. So in essence, 15A cable with 10A plugs, home made of course 
Disclaimer: i'm a sparky!!

[oldtrack123]

All my leads have 10A plugs and are 1.5mm H/D flex. So in essence, 15A cable with 10A plugs, home made of course 
Disclaimer: i'm a sparky!!

 Hi
With 10amp PLUGS & SOCKETS I HOPE 

Peter

[Humbolt]

Oh of course, otherwise it would be illegal!!

[oldtrack123]

 Hi Outbackjack
 Re:"i'm not a sparky but cant see any reason why you cant "shave" the earth plug to suit when necessary""

 That is obvious ,or you would not have made that suggestion 

 Peter

[Symon]

i'm not a sparky but cant see any reason why you cant "shave" the earth plug to suit when necessary

You shouldn't do that because you are bypassing a protection feature.  The following is quoted from here - http://myswag.org/forum/index.php?topic=8138.msg125983#msg125983


It is true that there is very little difference between a 10A and 15A plug (apart from the obvious bigger earth pin), but there is differences in the socket.  A 15A socket has wider wipers (can't remember the proper term, so that will have to do for now) that give a larger area of contact on the plug pins, so a 15A socket has a higher current rating than a 10A socket - no surprises there.

One thing you stated that is incorrect is - "Basically it is all about not overloading your circuit protection (circuit breakers and fuses)", that is totally wrong.  Circuit breakers and fuses protect the cable, the entire cable, and nothing but the cable - they don't care about plugs and outlets.  And they certainly aren't sized with the size of outlets in mind, so the circuit breakers and fuses don't protect the outlet.

The next thing is "so in theory if you drew 15A out of one 10A outlet there wouldn't be any melting down of your outlets etc," you may be surprised to know that the outlets are tested in accordance to AS 3112 to a value of - wait for it - 11A!!  To get certification in Australia they are only tested to 110% of their rating - so if you do indeed drag 15A out of a 10A outlet there is a fair chance that it will heat up, and possibly melt.  Ask any domestic sparky if they have seen any melted outlets - I bet they will say yes.  I have seen one melt because a toaster and a kettle were both plugged into one 10A outlet via a double adaptor (double adaptors are for a different rant on another day, but I strongly discourage their use).

OK, so where does the protection for the outlet come from?  The answer is in the design and certification of devices when they go on sale in Australia.  For something to be certified with a 10A plug then it must draw up to or less than 10A.  This is why you can have many 10A outlets on one circuit protected by a 25A circuit breaker.  The circuit breaker protects the cable, and the outlets are protected via the fact that to have a 10A plug, the device must use less than 10A.  If the device uses more than 10A, then it would be fitted with a 15A or 20A plug - so logically you need a 15A or 20A outlet.  Again you have the same scenario - the circuit breaker protects the cable, and the outlet is protected via the fact that the device will draw less than what the plug rating is.

Now, this protection is totally compromised if you use a 10/15A converter lead.  The reason why your appliance has a 15A plug is because it will draw more than 10A.  If you use a converter lead, and your load does indeed draw more than 10A, there is a fair chance you will melt the outlet, possibly start a fire, and your circuit breaker or fuse couldn't care less.

Generally there are many 10Amp outlets per 10A house circuit... but only 1x15Amp outlet per 15A circuit ( to prevent multiple high draw appliances being used on the one circuit protection device)

That isn't a requirement of the current standard, yes many electricians (including me) would put 15A outlets on their own circuit to prevent nuisance trips, but it isn't mandatory.

Have you noticed what size circuit breaker is protecting your 10Amp power points in you house, 16A or 20A, so in theory if you drew 15A out of one 10A outlet there wouldn't be any melting down of your outlets etc, but if the combined total amps was higher from multiple items working at the same time then the said circuit breaker/fuse would fail.

Like I said, 10A outlets are only tested to 11A, so draw more than that and you are in dangerous territory.

So if your van/camper were drawing to much on the house wiring, the fuse or circuit breaker should always be the place to 'blow/trip'. That is what it is there for.  If it does trip, don't run the toaster, kettle and sandwhich maker all at the same time.

Yes true, the protection will operate to protect the cable - but not the outlet!

[BigJules]

I've got two (one long, one not so long) 15A leads for use when in van parks, but I have also made an adaptor with a 15A socket and a 10A plug for when I need to be able to connect into a 10A circuit somewhere.

[Juggs]

any van park ive been too they have said 15 amp leads and they are supposed to be tagged as well

[Audio Bloke]

The silly thing is if the park has 15amp outlets with a 15amp breaker and you plug a 10amp lead in you can draw 15amps down a 10 amp cable Hummm

[Symon]

The silly thing is if the park has 15amp outlets with a 15amp breaker and you plug a 10amp lead in you can draw 15amps down a 10 amp cable Hummm

If the appliance is manufactured in accordance with Australian Standards then that isn't a problem - scroll up and read the blue text of my post.

[oldtrack123]

Hi  Audiobloke

Adding a little more to Symon's posts.

If the appliance you are using is fitted with a 10amp plug[as supplied.]you cannot overload the 10amp outlet.
That Is the while basis of Symon's blue post
It is only when someone decides to change an appliance or lead from the approved plug that problems of overload can occurf.

Peter

[youngpop]

Just read all the threads on this subject, and advise if you buy a Cub CT, they come with 15amp sockets, therefore, you will have to do what I did and buy a 15/15 amp lead (not cheap) and cut off one end and replace it with a 10amp plug. We now carry 10/10 and 15/10 leads.

[BigJules]

You two, enough, five minutes on the time out chair.

[oldtrack123]

Just read all the threads on this subject, and advise if you buy a Cub CT, they come with 15amp sockets, therefore, you will have to do what I did and buy a 15/15 amp lead (not cheap) and cut off one end and replace it with a 10amp plug. We now carry 10/10 and 15/10 leads.

Sorry young pop
 What you  SHOULD do is buy an APPROVED ADAPTER ,,under AUST standards[AMPFIBIAN]approved &,legal 

[oldtrack123]

You two, enough, five minutes on the time out chair.

Hi Big Jules
Am I one of those you refer to??
If so I do not understand why ,all I have done is confirmed & agreed with Symons' posts.

The Ampfibian is the only  legal  way @ this time
Home modified 10amp plug to15amp sockets are not legal or approved

Peter

[D4D]

Hi Big Jules
Am I one of those you refer to??

Nah it was Outback Jack having another crack at me again

[oldtrack123]

 HiBig Jules

Myapologies , sorry ,
Thanks,D4D for  explaining

[BigJules]

I should have been clearer; I was referring to D4D and OBJ.