Painting a Trailer

[Camel Tow]

Howdy,

Technically not a camper trailer question...but kind of related...

I am doing up an old 6x4 trailer as a dedicated BBQ trailer to be donated to the local junior footy club.

There was about 3 layers of paint and some surface rust, I have now taken most of it back to bare metal.

I was thinking that I would primer and then use some of the White Knights Rustguard Hammertone as top coat as it will hide some of the imperfections.

I am a little confused about which primer I should be using though.

Should I also be using some rust converter as well?

Budget is limited and I am limited to Bunnings ( the club won some vouchers).

Any advice is appreciated.

Cheers

[singo-26]

Nor glass do a metal primer that is supposed to be scratch and chop resistant, I was told it is compatible with most rust paints. Don't know if Bunnings sell it though.
Unless there is rust present I wouldn't use any rust converter.

[Chippy76]

Rust convertor is no good on bare (non rusty) metal. Light surface rust is removable with a wire brush and fine sandpaper - if you want to go to that length. If there are excessively rusty patches , I would use rust convertor on them, this gives you a good base to start from. Read the can of you intended paint, as some will recommend an etch primer, others no primer.  There are plenty of good cheap primers on the market. It really is top coat dependant. I have used killrust topcoat on my (weathered) Gal trailer chassis, with no lifting or cracking.

Hope that helps.

Cheers Chippy

[qlddsl]

I think the rustguard paints are self priming, generally the tin will tell you what to use.

[Campfire]

Doesn't hurt to fish oil the trailer once painted, good for keeping the rust away.

Campfire

[morcon]

As others have said; if surface rust rub it off, if it is a bit more serious use a rust converter on these sections. Some paints don't need primer but I would suggest priming it anyway - just a normal metal primer that Bunnings sell will be fine. With hammertone paint if you really want the hammered effect to stand out then you will get a better result by brushing it on rather than spraying it on. Fish oil when finished.

[Campfire]

When I built my trailer I used a zinc undercoating before painting, I got my paint down like a water like consistency before putting through my spray gun. You are better to take your time and do 4 - 5 thin coats which can get into all the small cracks and fine gaps rather than 2-3 thick coats of paint. I also allow a good couple of weeks between each coat so the sun allows each coat to bake on good.

Final note:

 I spent just as much time set up for the paint job, masking off areas, plus all the cleaning up as I did actually painting my trailer. If you take your time, don't rush and you look after your spraygun and paint preparation you get a top notch job.

Once completed hit it with fish oil, then when it sets, go to Clark Rubber or a place similar and buy plastic bung end caps etc to close up hollow gaps on your trailer frame where possible ( keeps moisture out).

Never rush the job, take your time and it will turn out great.

Good luck

Campfire

[dazzler]

I have had mixed results with hammertone and now dont bother with it.

I would use an etch primer then top coat.

[D4D]

I would use an etch primer then top coat.

x2 Bunnings sells both

[Chippy76]

I too have had mixed results with hammer tone paint. I have recently found one called "revolution" that seems to be better than most. With hammertone paint clogging of the nozzle seems to be an issue, so sometimes thinning slightly is the best way to avoid this.

Cheers Chippy

And yes painting is 90% prep work ...

[GeeTee]

Most of the White Knight etc paints recommend a primer, I have used WK with (so far) good success on car suspension/chassis, trailer should look good for several years. Fishoil or lanotec will help

and two thumbs up to ya for helping the footy club 

[apsilon]

x2 Bunnings sells both

x3. White Knight SLS Etch Primer is what I use and always had good results (even on plastic the other week when I grabbed the wrong can by mistake LOL). As said you only need a rust converter if there's heavy rust that can't be removed. Surface rust just scrap/sand off first.

[Camel Tow]

Thanks for all the tips and advice.

My camper trailer (Camel) is done in charcoal hammer tone and I quite like the effect...easy to touch up if needed too. I just think that it is more forgiving in its finish than a gloss enamel.

I have hit all areas with wire brush on drill, flap discs and Brumby Strip-it discs on angle grinder.

(http://www.josco.com.au/newsite/jia/products/abrasives/abrasives_jbsd.htm)

I can't quite get to all areas with the drill / grinder.

What is the advantage of an etch primer...what does it do differently to other primers?

I don't actually have a compressor / spay gun but was going to put a call out to the club to see if anyone wanted to loan theirs or volunteer to help with the spray job. But if the Hammertone works better by brush then all good.

A local business has offered to do some welding to mount the BBQ in place and some gas bottle rings on the draw bar, another business (mate) is a licensed gas fitter and has offered to run the gas lines from the draw bar to the BBQ. We bought a 120L marine style esky which will also be fitted. These businesses will have the opportunity to have their logo on the tailgate.

Cheers

[apsilon]

What is the advantage of an etch primer...what does it do differently to other primers?

To put it simply, it bites into the surface for better adhesion. Mostly required for metals like aluminium or gal steel but I use it on all metals.

[D4D]

To put it simply, it bites into the surface for better adhesion. Mostly required for metals like aluminium or gal steel but I use it on all metals.

x2 and plastic

[Tjupurula]

Doesn't hurt to fish oil the trailer once painted, good for keeping the rust away.

Campfire

Almost correct Campfire, it is better to take the metal right back, then apply fish liberally, and allow it to dry for at least 72 hours prior to priming it.  That will kill any rust, and once painted, help prevent further rust.  I treat steel this way if I am doing RSJ and joyce work or the like for very wet areas.  If I am prefabricating for a specific schematic, I will also treated predetermined bolt holes, preventing the problems there as well.
Regards
Tjupurula

[fishfinder]

Almost correct Campfire, it is better to take the metal right back, then apply fish liberally, and allow it to dry for at least 72 hours prior to priming it.  That will kill any rust, and once painted, help prevent further rust. 
Regards
Tjupurula

x 2 I did this method on my box trailer 6 yrs a go works a treat

[Campfire]

I was only referring to the fish oil job I had done on my trailer like inside the trailer parts, hollow areas of the draw bars, inside any metal tubing, around parts etc, you see I had sand blasted and done a zinc undercoat before painting.

I'm a big fan of galvanizing but don't like the warping involved. These days industrial galvanizers won't touch trailers unless they are brand new ( just been made), for fear OHS reasons.

Fish oil does a great job.  The more you use the better.

Cheers

Campfire

[Tjupurula]

Hi Campfire
You had done everything correctly no doubt, I was merely pointing out it is better to take the metal right back first, then apply the fish oil and allow it to dry completely.  I only noticed the comment as I had one of my apprentices treat a trailer a couple of weeks ago, he was not sure about applying the fish oil, so I took him through it stage by stage, we all have to learn the various aspects of our trades.
I have been in my trade for over 30 years, and I am by no means an expert.  It makes very very happy if I am able to learn a new method of doing something, and that frequently happens these days.
Regards
Tjupurula

[Camel Tow]

Awesome level of knowledge here...thanks guys !

So...
1. Back to bare metal (done)
2. Fish Oil all over...dry for 72hrs
3. Primer (+/- etch)
4. Top coat x 2
5. Fish oil any joins / tubular etc

Is this correct?

Can I use etch primer after fish oil?

[Campfire]

Hi Campfire
You had done everything correctly no doubt, I was merely pointing out it is better to take the metal right back first, then apply the fish oil and allow it to dry completely.  I only noticed the comment as I had one of my apprentices treat a trailer a couple of weeks ago, he was not sure about applying the fish oil, so I took him through it stage by stage, we all have to learn the various aspects of our trades.
I have been in my trade for over 30 years, and I am by no means an expert.  It makes very very happy if I am able to learn a new method of doing something, and that frequently happens these days.
Regards
Tjupurula

Hey Tjupurula,

Don't sweat the small stuff mate, alls good.   

I can see where your coming  from and it's a great idea. I was only stating what I had done with my trailer that's all. 

I'm no trailer expert, just a backyard hacker willing to have a go.

I just got home from Bunnings, so I'm expecting to learn from more  DYI mistakes by this afternoon.

Especially if SHE is watching..............

Cheers

Campfire

[Tjupurula]

Awesome level of knowledge here...thanks guys !

So...
1. Back to bare metal (done)
2. Fish Oil all over...dry for 72hrs
3. Primer (+/- etch)
4. Top coat x 2
5. Fish oil any joins / tubular etc

Is this correct?

Can I use etch primer after fish oil?

Hi Camel Tow

Fish Oil, when fully dried, will not alter the actual surface of the metal, so you can use any variety of paint at all.  I am not a painter, just a boilermaker, so I am sure there will be someone here on MySwag who could advise a lot more accurately.  For me to do so could be misleading, and I do not wish to do that.
I have had a wide variety of paints and the like applied to various metals that I have prefabricated, and never had any problems.
Regards
Tjupurula

[Tjupurula]

Hi Guys
I note some people have mentioned "Rust Converter", what a commercial gimmick that stuff is.  Rust cannot be converted to anything, it has to be removed.  I teach my apprentices to think about rust as a bacteria for metal, something that has to be killed then removed.  Grinding metal back removes surface rust, but deep rust needs to be cut out.  Fish Oil is one of the ONLY substances which will actually destroy rust, and prevent further rust activity, and needs to be fully dried before being painted over.  I normally recommend 72 hours, but if the climate is wet or cool, then I say 4 - 5 days to allow complete drying, any moisture in the fish oil can interfere with paint.
Regards
Tjupurula