Which brakes?

[Murray]

Hi to all,
I have a question about over-ride brakes. I know electric brakes are the best, but because I  use both cars to pull the CT I could put a brake controller in both cars but am exploring the pros and cons of old fashioned over-ride brakes.

My CT's weight has crept up to the 750kg mark (I have weighed it) and I drive conservatively leaving plenty of space between myself and the car in front, but returning on Easter Monday I had a near accident. Someone over took, pulled in close in front of me at the same time as all the traffic braked. I had to pull off to the side of the road and stopped with my bumper in line with the guy's who over took. My darling wife, who usually blames me for not looking ahead when I brake heavily, was the first to lean over and call abuse at the other driver. (Proof that it wasn't my fault)

I know over-ride brakes can clunk and carry on if you brake and accelerate in quick succession and you have to flick the lever when reversing, but in general driving conditions are they efefctive and low maintenance?

 I am looking at the options of mechanical or hydraulic over-ride brakes vs electric brakes with in car controller. I don't want the electric adjuster ones that work on one setting not allowing for different braking levels.

Effectiveness and low maintenance  are my main criteria.

The CT is a light off road, it does dirt roads, but will never go to the Cape or serious off road.
 
Thanks in advance to all those who reply.
Paul

[99disco]

Mate I used to have hydronic override brakes and had nothing but trouble with then either dodgy caliper from time to time or the master cyl getting broken And then like you have said you get the constant clunking from the hitch when in traffic. I have since upgraded to electric on my camper and was so happy with them I have done my tandem garden trailer also. There is no noises, they work when you need them and don't drag when you don't need them.
As for cost if you don't already have an override hitch you will need to replace it, If you go electric you won't. Brake controllers are a lot cheeper than people think too I have just installed on of these
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/viewitem?itemId=300662861060&index=2&nav=SEARCH&nid=23196862615
In my parents 2 cars for their new caravan. So electric can be done a lot cheaper than people think.

Sorry for the long post



Shane

[Disco EMU]

Go for the over-rides!
Had them on a CT that was nearly 1t loaded. Made a huge difference ... no issues what-so-ever with the over-rides and your trailer's only just on the limit so all you need is a little help stopping in an emergency.
Think I paid around $700 to have them fitted.
Cheers
Craig

[qlddsl]

There are electric control units that fit to the trailer, only needing a wire to the trailer socket. You set the brake to the load and condition not sure if they have inertia control as well but if you want to go mechanical go with cable operated discs

[corynmelnkids]

If you have your mind set on an override system i would use a mechanical override disc brake set up and make sure when you order the override coupling to specify that you need the light duty spring in the coupling they do 2 different types of springs.
One that's is rated for 2 tonne and on for 1 tonne if you get the 2 tonne one it will hardly work as your ct isn't heavy enough to make it work.
But if it was me i would be fitting up electric brakes you can get some of the tekonsha brand controllers that you can buy a second cradle for and wiring harness so you can wire up 2 cars and use the one controller. As for the controllers that mount on your drawbar if you live in NSW they are illegal.
Hope this helps.

[GeoffA]

Hi Paul,

We have electric drums on our current camper, but have used other systems on other trailers.

Our TrakShak camper had cable override drums, and they worked well when adjusted properly.
They need to be run with plenty of slack in the cable, or they will be "off-on-off" as the trailer suspension goes up and down (leaf springs). A good, basic, low maintenance option. Very little to fail in the middle of nowhere.

I haven't used cable override discs, but have heard they are not ideal for off road trailers. Apparently, the corrugations knock the calipers about. OK for on road use, though.

Our 8'x5' tandem box trailer has hydraulic override drums, and they also work well, with on road use only. They've been on the trailer since I built it over 16 years ago, and haven't been touched. I expect I will need to replace the wheel cylinders and master cylinder some time soon, but they've been fine so far. I have a mate that has hydraulic overrides on his Pioneer camper, and he is in the process of changing to electric. He's had a few instances of rock damage to the steel hydraulic tube at the wheel cylinder. If you are not using for serious off road work, this may not be an issue for you.

Electric brakes are very good, but they are not maintenance free. The magnets will need replacing every now and then, and spares should be carried on big trips. You need off road magnets for off road use, and even then they need to be inspected regularly.........but this can be done at bearing maintenance time.

If it were me, my first choice would be electric drums..........with cable actuated drums second, then hydraulic drums.
As mentioned by corynmelnkids, if using override brakes, make sure the coupling is rated for your setup.

Cheers,
Geoff

[Traveller]

We have hydraulic override discs on the KK and they have worked well overall for just on 10 years. We have had no maintenance issues with them at all.

The only problem is when traction becomes iffy, worst case scenario is downhill on a muddy track. The weight of the trailer starts pushing from the back and the truck can't get enough traction to make the overides work effectively. It starts to get a bit like a major bobsled ride and the grip on the seat really tightens up.

We have been caught out a couple of times and I would like to add 'electronic' brake system to the trailer so you have the best of both worlds.

My recommendation would be to go for the electric brakes, you can always give the trailer brakes a quick stab at the controller to straighten the show up or use the trailer to slow the truck.

[Murray]

Thanks everyone. Well balanced replies.
I didn't realise in car brake controllers were that cheap. The spring rating in the over-ride coupling I didn't know about. Being able to use the trailer brakes to slow the car is a good safety bonus. I can see on cost and effectiveness that electric drums are the way to go.
Thanks all. I will now start shopping.

Paul

[shaned]

Go Electric, as others have mentioned with the magnets, they, like everything require a little bit of love.
This is the controller I have recently installed.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TEKONSHA-P3-PRODIGY-CARAVAN-TRAILER-ELECTRIC-BRAKE-CONTROLLER-BONUS-/290702280133?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43af34c5c5

You can transfer the controller between vehicles but you have be careful how its mounted,you can mount it flat or vertical, but you must have it level left to right, or the gyro won't function properly (so I have been told)
It has a gyro that detects rapid deceleration, and applies appropriate braking force.
You will need to fit another harness (4 wires) in the second vehicle, but unit itself just un clips from its holder and unplugs out the back.
I haven't used any other controllers, some are have a simple power control,bit like a volume control that you set at a certain level and that's what level of braking the trailer gives as soon as you touch the brake pedal, whether you want THAT level or not.
I'm most happy with what I got, I noticed that the price has come up a little since just before Easter when I got mine,
Oh another thing, these units ( as most ele ctric controllers do)also allow you to operate the trailer brakes independently, that way you can easily determine if the brakes on the trailer are working properly.
Plenty of how to on U tube

Shane

[Murray]

Thanks Shaned.

Paul

[GeeTee]

Over-ride brakes are just about fit and forget: they are in effect self proportioning, so they never 'over-brake' like electric brakes can, especially off-road where there are many different road surfaces, like soap-slippery downhill clay...