Highlights for us were:
Cape Leveque(don't miss the Beagle Bay church and the trochus hatchery at One Arm Point), Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge, the whole Mitchell Plateau, jumping off the waterfall at Manning Gorge, all of El Questro, Bell Gorge, and the Bungle Bungle.
I have to agree too on El Questro. Magnificent gorges, certainly worth a visit. El Questro and Emma Gorges were magic, and Zebedee Springs were heavenly. Once you pay for the pass, which isn't expensive really, you can drive to so many lookouts and amazing places as often as you like. We found it a lot cheaper and more authentic than Home Valley. HV8 was like a big fancy caravan park in the middle of the outback, and soooo commercial. If they packed them in anywhere, it was here, and they knew how to charge for everything.
We arrived at Kununurra mid June last year, but had to change our itinerary around because a few roads were still closed. The road to Mitchell Falls didn't officially open up until the beginning of July(according to council), though we were told it opened two weeks earlier for tour groups only. We went early July and the road was pretty good. Four days later when we headed back down to Drysdale Station, the road had deteriorated quite a bit, but it was definitely worth it. The whole Mitchell Plateau was an absolute highlight of our trip. The King Edward River camp was also one of the best in the Kimberley. It's right next to great swimming spots, both above and below the waterfall. There are great examples of both Wandjina and Bradshaw rock art nearby, and the Mitchell Falls themselves are breathtaking, not to mention walking behind Little Merten Falls to see the rock art and cool off. If you go and can afford it, the helicopter flight back is really worth it. We allowed a day from Manning Gorge up to King Edward River, then had three nights there, allowing us a full day for the walk to the Falls, and a day to explore the rock art, swim and relax, then another day to get to Home Valley.
Just a tip. Fill up whenever you get the chance. Drysdale Station was rationing fuel on our way back from the Plateau as the fuel tanker had broken down on the Gibb. We used everything in our jerry cans and limped in to Home Valley on fumes.
As for having a break from camping, APT run several wilderness lodges where their tour groups stay. They also allow independent travellers to stay there too, so you could try them. They are pretty expensive, around $250/person I think, but they do seem luxurious compared to a standard tent. They have them near Bell Gorge, The Bungle Bungles, on the Mitchell Plateau, and they now run Mt Hart and Drysdale Stations.
http://www.kimberleywilderness.com.au/content.asp?Document_ID=94557It doesn't really matter which way you drive it. Do you prefer the sun in your eyes in the morning or the evening?
Good luck with the planning, that's half the fun, and have a great trip!
Cheers
Karen
I found this website helpful
http://www.kimberleyaustralia.com/Plus Ron and Viv Moon's book 'The Kimberley: and adventurer's guide'