MySwag.org The Off-road Camper Trailer Forum
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: bagpuss on May 20, 2017, 01:21:41 PM
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Just wanted to know will it be safe to use the AL-KO legs to support my trailer with the wheels off anyone done this
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Is it independent suspension or leaf?
I don't think you would get the AL-KO legs high enough for independent suspension
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I wouldn't, they're only meant for levelling not holding the weight, just throw some jack stands underneath it.
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I wouldn't, they're only meant for levelling not holding the weight, just throw some jack stands underneath it.
This! ;)
Foo
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Thanks guys just as I thought ive got pallets under the hubs but a new issue is one of the nuts was cross threaded now I have to find a new stud the wheels have never been off from new
What was that old saying buy aussie built as there so much better all i can say the more I look at this Customline the less impressive it is ive found some really Shit quality work on it no wonder they are no longer in business
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I just swapped the axle over in ezy trailer camper I used the rear stabilises vertically and placed a jack under the flat at the tow bar end. All good. I also put several large blocks of wood under the rear as safety blocksin case anything gave way. Your not lifting tonnes of weight so the stabilises ahould be right. ALWAYS have an emergency block just in case thogh.Even if it is only your 2 tyres placed on top of each other at the rear of the trailer.. Heavy duty stands would naturally be preferable..
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Doesn't matter what it is no bolt and nut should be put together dry. Never seize should be used on all threads. Just my opinion. Rust dirt and water are a bolts worst enemy.
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I've always played by one rule,
When removing wheels, doing maintenance or jacking it up for what ever reason, always attach it to the tow vehicle first.
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Thanks for all the replys guys ive removed both wheels today and put pallets under the hubs as im repainting the under side of the trailer with raptor bed liner i will put up photos in my other trailer rebuild thread
Any ideas on how to find the replacement stud for the hub ?
Thanks Mike
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Thanks for all the replys guys ive removed both wheels today and put pallets under the hubs as im repainting the under side of the trailer with raptor bed liner i will put up photos in my other trailer rebuild thread
Any ideas on how to find the replacement stud for the hub ?
Thanks Mike
Are they Alko hubs Mike?
http://www.alko.com.au/vehicle-technology-catalogue/hubs-bearings-studs-nuts/wheel-studs-nuts/ (http://www.alko.com.au/vehicle-technology-catalogue/hubs-bearings-studs-nuts/wheel-studs-nuts/)
Alko don't sell direct to the public. Trailer parts supplier would be the place to go.
You could also try Supercheap, but not my first choice.
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These people should be able to help.
http://www.trailerfactory.com.au/index2 (http://www.trailerfactory.com.au/index2)
If they can't, I'd try this one too.
http://www.carac.com.au/ (http://www.carac.com.au/)
Both on the outer East of Melbourne though.
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Can't see why they wouldn't just be normal wheel studs.
Knock out the old one and take it to your closest auto parts shop (Repco, Bursons, SCA, etc) and grab a few new ones. One to go back in the hub and some spares for the parts box. ;)
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Can't see why they wouldn't just be normal wheel studs.
Knock out the old one and take it to your closest auto parts shop (Repco, Bursons, SCA, etc) and grab a few new ones. One to go back in the hub and some spares for the parts box. ;)
From memory the studs on electric brake drums are a special type (at least compared to automotive ones). Heads are machined flat to clear the magnet.
The trailer section of any auto store should have then.
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You can kind of see in this photo, but my cheap eBay electric hubs have recessed holes for the stud and the actual stud just looked like a normal style one.
One stud actually sat a little proud of the face of the hub and clipped the magnet when I first assembled everything. But happily it all worked properly after I gave the offending stud a little love tap from my precision alignment tool. ;)
(http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab10/Pete_79/Jimny/Trailer%20Build/B77EF9AE-569A-4D99-BFD1-B264A7963586_zpsouqcmtbo.jpg)
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You're right pete79. 1/2 hour after I posted that I'll pulled the Alko drums on my just purchased trailer and found the same.
I remember seeing heavily worn drums down a a mates workshop. where the drum face had worn to the studs. Maybe thats what had me thinking.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170521/276c876412787599f3a5231b68b2b62d.jpg)
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Doesn't matter what it is no bolt and nut should be put together dry. Never seize should be used on all threads. Just my opinion. Rust dirt and water are a bolts worst enemy.
That is not correct, particularly on trailers. They have by far the worst record of anything on the road for loosing wheels or even snapping the end off the axle.
The owner's handbook for both of my 4w4s says the wheel studs and nuts must be clean and dry. The same applies to my daughter's hatchback. All ther other cars that I have owned since the 1960s have been the same.
This article covers it fairly well. http://caravanandmotorhomebooks.com/wheels-falling-off-trailers-2/ (http://caravanandmotorhomebooks.com/wheels-falling-off-trailers-2/) Look up the references at the bottom of the page top see where the information came from.
Regularly removing trailer wheels, cleaning the studs and nuts and re-tightening them to the correct tension, should be a normal part of regularly maintenance.
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Thanks for all the replys guys ive removed both wheels today and put pallets under the hubs as im repainting the under side of the trailer with raptor bed liner i will put up photos in my other trailer rebuild thread
Any ideas on how to find the replacement stud for the hub ?
Thanks Mike
I have some spares .
Based in Campbellfield - I think you get out that way ?
Pm me if required
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Hey Metters. As I have stated it is just my opinion.
A bolt looses 1/3rd of its torque when put together dry due to friction. So how about you do what you do and I'll do what I do and you maybe not have a go at people trying to help. The thread on the wheel stud was not cross threaded it picked up while undoing the nut. This could be due to a lot of reasons but if there was any sort of lube on it it probably wouldn't have picked up.
Lube is a good thing. Just my opinion.
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So how about you do what you do and I'll do what I do and you maybe not have a go at people trying to help.
I am also trying to help but I would prefer to tell people what car manufacturers tell owners and mechanics to do. It is not an opinion.
Some bolts inside places like engines have to have lubricated threads. Details will be in workshop manuals. You have to look long and hard though to find a manufacturer that recommends lubricating wheel nuts. When they say clean dry nuts and threads they mean just that. Dirt and rust is not acceptable. That should not occur if regular maintenance is kept up.
I agree the nut in this case may not have picked up the thread and locked up if a lubricant had been used. It may not have got the chance though because the stud could have broken off much earlier or the nut could have worked loose due to over-tightening of the nut. That is what happens when a lubricant is used. The nut goes on too far and stretches the stud before the tension wrench clicks.
That is just another one of the many reasons why so many trailers loose wheels while the cars towing them don't.
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Hahahahahaa. That's gold.
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Hahahahahaa. That's gold.
Can't you say something a little more constructive than that?
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:cheers: >:D
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Hey Metters. As I have stated it is just my opinion.
A bolt looses 1/3rd of its torque when put together dry due to friction. So how about you do what you do and I'll do what I do and you maybe not have a go at people trying to help. The thread on the wheel stud was not cross threaded it picked up while undoing the nut. This could be due to a lot of reasons but if there was any sort of lube on it it probably wouldn't have picked up.
Lube is a good thing. Just my opinion.
The problem is that unless otherwise specified the tensions quoted are for clean dry threads, when you lubricate the threads and do them up to the specified tension you are stretching the bolt beyond its design parameters which weakens the bolt. Whether or not dry threads lose torque or not is irrelevant as the manufacturer takes that into account when quoting torque settings, you can lubricate your threads all you like and I occasionally do it as well, but knowing that they are lubricated I am careful not to apply as much tension as on dry threads.
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Cold hard reality is. It is a very very small minority of owners, mechanics and tyre fitters who use a torque wrench on clean, dry wheel nuts. Walk through a dealer workshop (the ones representing the manufacturers) and you'll be hard pressed to find them 'torquing' up nuts to 'specifications'. Half inch rattle guns a plenty. I'll admit there are some models that are critical with wheel nut tension, but as I said, small minority do it all the time.
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i would have thought the same, but was in my local tyre shop in a small country town and watched them finishing off a car and they used a tension wrench, so maybe practices are changing.
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I reckon if you walked into 100 car dealer workshops and asked what the torque specs for a model car they sell was, you'd never find one that knew....
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Hey Metters. As I have stated it is just my opinion.
A bolt looses 1/3rd of its torque when put together dry due to friction. So how about you do what you do and I'll do what I do and you maybe not have a go at people trying to help. The thread on the wheel stud was not cross threaded it picked up while undoing the nut. This could be due to a lot of reasons but if there was any sort of lube on it it probably wouldn't have picked up.
Lube is a good thing. Just my opinion.
Sorry mate, but I have to agree with Metters. Never lubricate your wheel studs/nuts. And as for torque settings, there are tables that give standard torque settings for bolt/nuts, that take into account whether the bolt and nut its plain black steel, lubricated steel, plated and galvanised steel. Torque settings for lubricated nuts and bolts is always lower than for un-lubricated steel.
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That's fine. Like I said it is my opinion. As an engine reconditioner and mechanical fitter I am well aware of dry torque vs wet torque settings. But I am also aware that a dry thread picks up a lot easier than a lubricated thread. I know all about bolt stretch and tensile strength and doing up nuts with rattle gun etc. but I personally would never put them together dry. Remember these companies are in the business of making money so if they can save on using lube and give the everyday person a torque setting to compensate for this they will. Also bolts these days are punched out so quickly that the quality is not really good. Look at a thread under a microscope and you will see the ridges and dips. These are the reasons threads pick up. Like I stated I am happy to do this. No one else has to. That's fine. If I know my wheel stud will be in good condition when I take the wheel nut off and it won't pick up and stuff the stud and nut.