MySwag.org The Off-road Camper Trailer Forum
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: heath74 on September 14, 2014, 07:56:25 PM
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Swaggers, for the last few years I've wanted to get a welder, and every second little job seemed to need to stick some metal together. But with a shed full of tools I put it of, had mate help me, and made do with bolts.
However today I decided enough was enough, did my online research and decide that the 150 amp Gasless mig was for me, I decided on a ROSS unit at mitre 10 for $400. I made a final check of bunnings, masters and SCA. I headed in to mitre 10, and what do you know? marked down to $270. It was meant to be.
I've spent the afternoon in the shed making bits of metal stick to each other, it's not pretty, but I didn't blow anything up or burn myself.
I'm addicted, and can't stop thinking of the jobs I'm going to do now!
Who else loves to weld?
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I got my arc welder 12 years ago. Back then MIG welders were well out of my price range. I am no good at welding, and tend to burn more holes than I patch! I usually have fin welding though. Would love a MIG but can't really justify having 2 when my arc does everything I need it to.
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Please be careful what you weld with the small gasless mig, I have been a metal fabricator or 27 years and my opinion is that if you are going to have 1 welder make it an arc (stick) welder and learn how to use it...cheap gasless migs probably have their place but I dont know where that is. They just dont "stick" things together well enough for my liking. Michael...
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I just got myself my 2nd mig......a big ass cig weld on runners, my first job was to build a new glass rack for the dmax, had a fabrication bloke check it out and he asked if I wanted a job......he said the welds were better than his hired help could do......high compliments I was happy to take
Welding with a mig is not hard just need practice
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It would take some learning to weld 1.6mm mild steel with a stick welder. That is pretty tricky to do.
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Please be careful what you weld with the small gasless mig, I have been a metal fabricator or 27 years and my opinion is that if you are going to have 1 welder make it an arc (stick) welder and learn how to use it...cheap gasless migs probably have their place but I dont know where that is. They just dont "stick" things together well enough for my liking. Michael...
So hold off on the helicopter just yet?
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Yea gasless is ok.......until you weld with gas and see how much better it is
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Please be careful what you weld with the small gasless mig, I have been a metal fabricator or 27 years and my opinion is that if you are going to have 1 welder make it an arc (stick) welder and learn how to use it...cheap gasless migs probably have their place but I dont know where that is. They just dont "stick" things together well enough for my liking. Michael...
Would you have a brand or model you could recommend for a novice please
Cheers
Carl
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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It would take some learning to weld 1.6mm mild steel with a stick welder. That is pretty tricky to do.
Some learning but not too much, points to practice :Keep joints tight. :vary the amps so you can rest the rod on the metal (if you lift off too far you WILL blow through).
I dont hate Mig but I do use my stick welders more than the Mig...
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Would you have a brand or model you could recommend for a novice please
Cheers
Carl
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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If you are talking stick welders I have a $1000 plus stick welder(Fronius) and also a couple of cheap stick welders, CIGWELD Weldskill 130 with a 10 amp plug and UNIMIG 170 15 amp plug and would recommend either of these cheap welders. If you are talking Gasless MIG then anything 180 amps and up would be ok but cheap is NOT your friend when it comes to these I would not plan to spend less than $800...
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If you are talking stick welders I have a $1000 plus stick welder(Fronius) and also a couple of cheap stick welders, CIGWELD Weldskill 130 with a 10 amp plug and UNIMIG 170 15 amp plug and would recommend either of these cheap welders. If you are talking Gasless MIG then anything 180 amps and up would be ok but cheap is NOT your friend when it comes to these I would not plan to spend less than $800...
Thankyou
Cheers
Carl
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
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Yea gasless is ok.......until you weld with gas and see how much better it is
I personally would not use a gasless Mig, but I also understand $53.66 per quarter cylinder rental is not for everyone unless you are doing a fair bit of fab..
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Love welding but my welder doing my head in.
Vic weld 135 gas/gasless mig.
Think its on its way out, can't get it to stay consistant with the wire cause constant cold welds.
Blown out liner, changed tips over and over again, one minute welds fine next it plays up.
But in saying that it has built 4 sets of sliders, modified my trailer and well as few other jobs here and there not bad for a $345 welder, unfortaunly replacing any bits on it are nearly worth half the price of the welder, and nothing in the hand piece is relatable, whole new hand piece and lead at a nice price of $160 from memory.
Thankfully mate looking at upgrading so hopefully buy his old one of him.
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Good onya Heath ,start by glueing two pieces together , then break them apart , the harder this action is , the better your welding will be
I'm not that far away from you ,if you would like some pointers ,be more than happy to help
Like most things , ask away ,you may get the answer ,there are plenty of tricks in the welding game
Best piece of advice I can give you is prep work ,and always grind any paint,oil or such away
Again feel free to ask or come around
Cheers
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Would you have a brand or model you could recommend for a novice please
Cheers
Carl
If you can pick up a second hand WIA Weldmatic 150 they're a great machine and the hire mobs used to use them because the wire drive was robust and indestructible unlike the cheapies and remember the wire feeder is critical with migs-
http://www.weldingsupplies.net.au/wia.html (http://www.weldingsupplies.net.au/wia.html)
Don't think they're available new anymore as China Inc probably cut the guts out of that portable segment
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Good work mate. Welding is a very, very handy skill to know :D
Aaron
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If you can pick up a second hand WIA Weldmatic 150 they're a great machine and the hire mobs used to use them because the wire drive was robust and indestructible unlike the cheapies and remember the wire feeder is critical with migs-
http://www.weldingsupplies.net.au/wia.html (http://www.weldingsupplies.net.au/wia.html)
Don't think they're available new anymore as China Inc probably cut the guts out of that portable segment
Great advice WIA made great welding gear. All my welders have been ex hire. Hire companies would only purchase equipment capable of abuse and longlivety. It's excellent advice. The other brand that performs is Lincoln.
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If you ever see any of these old Abel's kicking around they make a great stick welder. Also theif proof because you can't pick them up lol.
Think dazzler had one for sale at one stage.
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Who else loves to weld?
Its a great hobby. I inherited a 40yo arc welder a couple of years back. I started off trying to weld some thin tubing together and only managed to blow holes in the metal. I decided I needed to practice A LOT, so started of doing a bit of 'art' with thick pieces of metal - pretty basic and ordinary, but it did teach me how to get the metal to actually stick together. I was going to upgrade to mig, but figure I only use it half a dozen times a year, so best stick with what I have.
Since I got my camper I've made up a couple of items for the camp fire (metal grid and a billy pole) - pretty rough but very useable (character I call it). I've also done some kayak racks, for the trailer. I still burn holes in things, but not as often and not as severe.
Its a handy bit of kit to have in the shed - enjoy!
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I learnt on an old transarc stick welder. When funds permitted I bought an Esseti inverter stick welder ($1100) and after another year or so I came across a near new Lincoln 170 mig welder for the princely sum of $150 ;D. I think most of the smaller cheapo migs only take the 1kg rolls of wire which is an expensive way to buy it compared to the 4.5kg rolls in the better migs.
I think it is good to learn on a stick welder first. From my experience, which isn't vast, you can do a reasonably good looking weld with a mig but it can be crap underneath and weak whereas with a stick weld, it will either look ok and be ok or look crap and be crap aka, you'll know when you've stuffed it up (slag inclusion, etc). I did the frame work of my trailer with the stick and then all the body and fiddly bits with the mig. You can weld 1.6mm with a stick welder and 2.0mm rods quite easily on the flat, but a mig is so much easier for continuous vertical up welds.
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my old man cant weld to save his life.......tho he tries lots! they hold together but look gruesome, so being his son naturally i try my best to NOT be like him! so everything i do i strive to do as professionally as possible, it sorta has backfired on me cuase now he brings all his stuff to me to weld!
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Good onya Heath ,start by glueing two pieces together , then break them apart , the harder this action is , the better your welding will be
I'm not that far away from you ,if you would like some pointers ,be more than happy to help
Like most things , ask away ,you may get the answer ,there are plenty of tricks in the welding game
Best piece of advice I can give you is prep work ,and always grind any paint,oil or such away
Again feel free to ask or come around
Cheers
Thanks Graham, I may take you up on that! It's clearly the sort of thing that takes practice.
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Any time matey , bring the welder , and you can compare if you like
Cheers
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Been welding for 35 years and still like it ;D
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I've got a gasless MIG and enjoy using it, but the welds are pretty rough. I've been thinking of doing a course to help with technique etc. has anyone done a course for beginners in melbourne that they would recommend? Perhaps a few of us could get together for some group learning.
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Try Community Colleges, or even better Tafe courses.
Gives you some hands on time with a qualified instructor.
Cheers
whitedg
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I've got a gasless MIG and enjoy using it, but the welds are pretty rough. I've been thinking of doing a course to help with technique etc. has anyone done a course for beginners in melbourne that they would recommend? Perhaps a few of us could get together for some group learning.
Well that's why we had that WIA 150 for outside or on the job welding because apart from steady current and quality flux core (ask the guys at WESS and the like for the good stuff) the wire feeder is the crucial bit and you'll find many China Inc ones don't cut it. The MIG welder might be small but it has to have the heart of its big brothers to do the job and why many will quickly become disillusioned with their cheap gasless MIGs from Bunnings or ebay.
That's what a welding course with workshop MIGs will quickly demonstrate to you. We had an Esab 3 phase for structural steel that every welder that tried it, immediately knew it was the best in the business but horses for courses and the WIA was similarly made for its task. There is no substitute for quality here.
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Big tread if you would like to wander around to the shed , bring your welder and you can compare it to a 240 v mig , or if you like I have a tig also . Be more than happy to show what little knowledge I have
I'm in the Cranbourne area if that helps , and sometimes it's not the welder itself but the prep work that let's you down
Cheers
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I am just re-learning how to weld again after an absence of about 36 years.
Since I have no big plans in mind, just the odd job here and there, I wanted to keep this as simple and cheap as possible, while knowing that the welder would do the things I needed it to do.
After a bit of research (things have moved on a bit in the arc welding industry since I was last doing any ... ), it became obvious that the cheap MIG welders were basically crap, expensive to run, and fine for welding non-structural steel unless one is very expert - and I am most definitely not! Oxy acetylene gear that I used to own is out of the question expensive for me these days.
Inverter welders are apparently quite good, but I know next to nothing about them other than that cheap ones aren't worth a bumper, and the expensive ones can cost a small fortune to repair, and they can be prone to needing repairs ... :(.
TIG welders I know to be good, but again, very expensive; then there's the gas bottle costs ... .
I grew up using oxy and heavy Lincoln arc welders (stick welders) that were generally tractor driven!
Considerably later in my life, I acquired a domestic stick welder. 130 amp, dual voltage, 240V AC type that used a 15A supply. These welders are extremely simple and robust. There is almost nothing that can go wrong with them, being basically nothing but a transformer with an adjustable choke. One can buy them "by weight" :laugh: ;D . If they are relatively heavy in the hand, chances are they will work OK. It's really that simple, and so are they.
So (shock, horror) I bought a 'complete' kit made by Ozito at Bunnings. Nice, heavy little fan-cooled 130A stick welder with 25% duty cycle, a 10A plug, and a 3 year exchange warranty for $97. This welder has an adjustable choke (amperage), from 55A to 130A, with automatic voltage adjsutment. Of course the included mask and chipping hammer were a joke. I expected that. I already had heavy leather welding gloves that are still good. These basic stick welders can weld light materials (like 1.6mm box section etc), but will give excellent penetration on much heavier materials where the cheap MIG welders struggle a lot. They can also be used to weld very heavy materials (6-12 mm) if one prepares the work properly, and uses multiple passes.
Unlike MIG welding wire, welding rods are very cheap, and are commonly available in many grades and sizes. This welder can use rods from 2.0 to 3.2 mm - adequate for most domestic welding.
Bought a decent chipping hammer at SCA for $8.
Bought a flip-up helmet with a flip-up filter. I grew up using these, so not a problem. Or so I thought :(! Safety has also moved on! With the filter down, I could just see the work when in full, bright sunlight; and only then when at the right angle to both the work and the helmet. Ugh. I did manage to weld a stay each side of my spare wheel post using 2mm mild steel rods. The post is 3mm steel, but the side stays are only 1.6mm box. Not pretty, but considering that I could not even see the work until the arc struck, flaming amazing that I even got that far! There is no way that these welds could break, short of belting the hell out of them with a sledge hammer, even so.
Back to Bunnings, who happily exchanged the (used) helmet I had bought for a reasonably professional auto-darkening one with adjustable filter strength (#9-#13), with a "grinding mode", where the filter is switched off entirely. This cost just under $100 (less the $18.53 the returned one had cost me).
When there is no arc, the filter is about the density of a medium pair of sunglasses. Not as dark as my driving sunglasses, but slightly darker than my walk-around sunnies. It reacts to the arc in 1/16,000th of a second, turning the filter to the set strength all but instantaneously. This is like magic to me! The weldors at the trailer repair shop I frequent use this exact kind and brand of helmet, and recommended it to me when I told them of the problems I was having.
Anyway. Way back when, I bought a little book to help me along with some of the work I had been doing in my twenties. Published by the Lincoln Arc Welding foundation, it is called "Arc Welding Instructions for the Beginner" by H. A. Sosnin. I still have it. It's a fantastic little book, aimed at turning out competent arc weldors.
No BS, a little necessary theory, just the bare practicalities of the art.
Blow me down if it isn't still in print today! I can highly recommend this book to anyone. Costs a whole US$15. Available here:
http://www.amazon.com/Arc-Welding-Instructions-Beginner-Sosnin/dp/9992859865
Haven't had a chance to use the new helmet during the last week, but I expect it to overcome the problems I was having.
Sorry to be long-winded, folks. Just though I would share my personal journey with the OP.
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Good reply mate....and to show...with a bit of practise, welding isn't all that hard......
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I've had my Peerless welder for 12 years now. Just used the last rod in the box that came with the welder today!
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Anybody tossing up the idea of buying a stick machine, and I suggest everybody starts on one of these, should save some coin and buy a dc machine. Some of the smaller inverter style units from Esab, BOC, WIA and unimig are well priced. Obviously cant compete with Chinese imports but check the duty cycle on the name brands, generally 100% duty at 60-70% max current whereas your cheapies give up the ghost at 25%.
Personally I use a BOC smootharc 170a DC inverter and have built 2 trailers plus work use plus bits and pieces around the house.
The difference between DC and AC is like chalk and cheese. Dc feels so much better and smoother to my way of thinking.
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Gidday Jon
I agree, to a degree.
If I were twenty five, I wouldn't have the slightest problem with springing the biccies for decent gear, including oxy.
If I had in mind to build trailers, or the like - ditto.
But at my age, even the crappy Ozito welder will probably outlast me!
Jimi reckons it would last 2 weeks max in his shop, and I agree with him.
With a 3 year replacement warranty from Bunnings, I can't go wrong for my needs and wants.
However, I was also looking for an all-up outlay of no more than about $250, including a starter set of rods. Any more than this, and it would be cheaper for me to just get Jimi (Jimi's Trailers, Moorabbin) or his lads to do it for me. I discussed this with him, and he agreed. We like each other, so he always gives me good rates ... ;).
For this money, I wanted something that would a) work; b) that I could work (I'm used to stick welders); c) that would be safe for my eyes (I have the very earliest signs of a cataract starting in my right eye :( ); and that would allow me to do pissy little jobs easily without having to take everything down to Jimi.
Good reply mate....and to show...with a bit of practise, welding isn't all that hard......
Thanks, mate. I reckon that it sometimes helps others if I give a fairly complete run down of what passes for my thinking processes ... ;D .
Welding isn't all that hard, keeping my hand steady, now that's different ... ;) :laugh: .
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started playing around with an old stick welder sitting in the shed.
sorry but constantly changing over rods gets old real quick.
barely getting 20-30 seconds worth of welding before having to change rods.
welds not great but it a pretty crappy welder, who knows how many decades old and is only a small one.
only controls it has min-max on-off. but was fun playing it.
reckon mig heaps easier for doing tacks.......
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Many people do not appear to know that coated stick welding rods (the vast majority of rods these days) need to be kept moisture-free.
They can be baked in an oven for a little while before use if they have moisture in them. The symptoms of this include a spluttering arc that is hard to maintain; poor penetration; difficulty in striking an arc; etc.
Just laying the rods out in the sun on a dry, sunny day will evaporate off any moisture they have absorbed.
BTW, I agree with you, HS. An arc welder that has all but zero level of control from many years ago is highly unlikely to give even just satisfactory results. Reasonable quality home welders from that era (1970s?), usually had at least two voltage settings, usually achieved by changing the lead from one terminal to the other (auto setting of voltage wasn't invented then ... ) and an adjustable choke to adjust the output amperage. Considering that a change of as little as 5A in output current can mean the difference between a good weld and a not so good weld, not being able to adjust the current in some way is pretty debilitating ... :(.
Also people misunderstand duty cycles. It is not abnormal for someone who is welding to spend only 25% of their time actually welding. What is essential, is that the welder has an automatic shut-down that ensures that it is not overloaded. The welder I bought has a duty cycle of 25% at its maximum amperage, and a fan to help keep it cool. Many of these welders do not have a fan; don't have a thermal overload; and have a duty cycle of around 10% at about half their maximum amperage. These welders tend to be very light in the hand, which is why I mentioned buying a welder "by weight" originally. To get much better than the baby welder I chose, one really needs to go for semi-professional or professional welding gear, and that costs a lot of money - thousands, not hundreds.
If one is a complete newbie to welding, it would help enormously for that person to discuss their needs with a reasonably experienced weldor, and preferably take that person along with them when choosing a suitable welder.
The suggestion by a couple of other posters here to buy a s/h welder from a hire company is terrific. Gets you a lot of welder (if a very well used one) for not much money. Another suggestion to buy a good quality, pro welder s/h has a lot of merit also IMO. Again, discuss either course of action with a friend who is an experienced welder.
As I stressed before, spending money on an auto-darkening helmet with a 'grinding' mode is not optional these days, regardless of the type of welder being purchased.
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The welder I bought has a duty cycle of 25% at its maximum amperage, and a fan to help keep it cool. Many of these welders do not have a fan; don't have a thermal overload; and have a duty cycle of around 10% at about half their maximum amperage. These welders tend to be very light in the hand, which is why I mentioned buying a welder "by weight" originally.
As Ratbag said, have a close look at the duty cycle as it will make a difference if you are welding at higher amps. I used to have 130amp CIG transformer welder, much the same as the Ozito one, and when welding at about 110 amps you could only do an inch of weld and it would cut out on duty cycle and you have to wait a minute or so to be able to use it a again each time. Depending on the job, it gets annoying very quickly.
The only thing that weight has to do with a welder, is how much of a pain it is to move around. The old transformer types are very heavy and if you want to use them not only in the shed, but around the yard or even at someone else's place you may be helping, they are cumbersome. Inverter stick welders are very light weight and brilliant compact welders that you don't have to spend a fortune on to get a good one, but you'll love being able to carry it around easily. Features like hot start also help as well and they do seem smoother to weld with. They usually have a better duty cycle as well, but again this is something to check when purchasing as it sucks when you need to do a 2 inch run and the bugger cuts out on you halfway through.
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^ I agree, Grafy. Anything one buys has to suit the purpose one has in mind for it.
It's more than a bit useless to buy a PTO driven, 250A Lincweld if one hasn't got a use for it (like repairing heavy earth-moving equipment ... ), or a vehicle with a PTO to drive it ... ;).
That having been said, it is mostly pretty rare to need to take any welder anywhere much. One can always weld using two car batteries wired up in series (24V), using a ring spanner as an electrode if needs be!
I have even managed to use a ring spanner as an electrode using only one car battery ... :(.
Very lucky that part of my hand didn't evaporate along with a goodly amount of the ring spanner.
It did teach me to disconnect the earth terminal first, always; and to take great care about not bridging the battery terminals with a spanner! At least the battery didn't blow up in my face, I guess.
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By the way ,if you wake up in the middle of the night with your eyes feeling like they have glass in them, it is probably welding flash. Cold milk ( in your eyes ) will do the trick to soothe them. One of my mates copped it the other day which reminded me.
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How is the welding going Heath, doing your head in yet, or have you mastered the black art , or should I say the black burning art , it's all practice matey
Cheers
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Hi,
Sorry to jump onto your thread but has anyone had any experience with disposable mig gas bottles? When I bought my Lincon gas/gasless welder the bloke at the shop told me that they are a waste of money.(He is a CIG agent) so I have run gasless wire which is ok but not as neat. If there are any alternatives to hiring a bottle Which is a bit pricey I would be happy to hear about them. Thanks
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I would think disposable Mig gas bottles would be uneconomic vis a vis gasless wire. It's the same with oxy acetylene although using lpg will save one cyl rental. Peed me off I was used to having oxy and have the gear but can't justify cyl rentals for once a year or so and forget hiring it. That's when I picked up a Bernzomatic oxy kit for $100 on special with gas and here's a handyman vid of it in action-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NTZz4lDiJE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NTZz4lDiJE)
I wanted to braze up a cracked hinge on my Jayco stove lid and very occasionally I want to silver solder copper and brass and although the oxy cyl won't last long the kit allows me to do the odd job the way I want when I want. I keep a spare oxy cyl and I don't waste time lighting it up and turn it off with any decent pause in useage and find the cost and convenience suits me fine nowadays. My days of cutting through structural steel are long gone but you can't beat oxygen for brazing and silver soldering.
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I did a short MIG course at tech and went to Sydney Tools and bought a 175 amp machine on special that I ran off a 20 amp power point to weld up my trailer chassis. I found both gas and gasless welded okay, but the gasless gave a huge amount of spatter.
On heavier gauge material, say 4mm and over, I found it much easier and better to weld if I did a bit of preheating with some oxy. Welding half inch chain onto an 8mm baseplace would have been impossible, at least at my skill level, with my existing setup. But heating them up to cherry red at the weld position before striking an arc gave a beautiful weld.
How can anyone who loves life and not love welding?
Keith
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Gidday Keith
I did a short MIG course at tech and went to Sydney Tools and bought a 175 amp machine on special that I ran off a 20 amp power point to weld up my trailer chassis. I found both gas and gasless welded okay, but the gasless gave a huge amount of spatter.
On heavier gauge material, say 4mm and over, I found it much easier and better to weld if I did a bit of preheating with some oxy. Welding half inch chain onto an 8mm baseplace would have been impossible, at least at my skill level, with my existing setup. But heating them up to cherry red at the weld position before striking an arc gave a beautiful weld.
The beauty of even a baby stick welder is that it will weld quite heavy materials easily. Even using 2.5 mm rods, one can weld 6 mm materials together. Better with 3.2 mm rods. Way back, I welded an 8" x 4" RSJ together in the middle of a 6.8 m span using a domestic 130A stick welder. Passed inspection for use as the main support for a live load floor in a building ... :). Doubt that I could even approach that level these days! I'm about 30+ years out of practice ...
How can anyone who loves life and not love welding?
Keith
There is something really awesome about holding a plasma arc at the end of one's arm that's about half the temperature of the surface of the Sun ...
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Hey Ratbag,
I agree with you that a welding stick in the hands of an expert can do wonderful things.
But in the hands of a mug it can also give you cocky-poo welds with lots of slag inclusions. That's why I went with MIG.
The sound of the frying bacon crackle when you've got the MIG weld running nicely is music to the ears. I was taught to run continuous beads but found it hard to get enough heat into the metal without blowing occasional holes or getting bad weld penetration. However, the strike and lift off method seemed to work much better for me.
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Hi,
Sorry to jump onto your thread but has anyone had any experience with disposable mig gas bottles? When I bought my Lincon gas/gasless welder the bloke at the shop told me that they are a waste of money.(He is a CIG agent) so I have run gasless wire which is ok but not as neat. If there are any alternatives to hiring a bottle Which is a bit pricey I would be happy to hear about them. Thanks
I haven't done this yet but I've read that you can get a gas bottle filled with co2 from home brew shops . apparently co2 is acceptable for mig and only costs about $30 for a refill
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I bought a bottle from the local gasweld shop. It's a bit of an initial outlay but then you can just do the old exchange whenever I need to.
The rental thing is just extortion for the home casual user. Buying it outright is cheaper after two or three years. There are about 4 different sizes and they are happy to trade up to a bigger size if I wanted, which I did and now have the e size bottle. The e is 100 bucks to swap for a full one.
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Hey chetty how much was the bottle to buy?
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They are pretty expensive to start with but it is a saving on rental
I just nicked the figures off the gasweld site
C size bottle is 195
D = 339
E = 479
G = 589
They are supplied full so an E size works out to be payed for in about 3 years of rental if that makes sense?? (excluding a fill price)
A friend of mine rents an E size bottle at 145 per year. A refill is about the same price
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Thanks Gordo & Chetty, It's good to know there are alternatives to rental. I will have to check out the home brew shop & I might even enquire about gas.
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C'mon Heath we need evidence
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Just replaced my old Lincoln mig with a new big ass cig mig, happy as a pig in s#%t! First job was to build a new glass rack for my dmax, seems a few ppl want me to build some stuff for them now after seeing my handy work.
Cheers
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Hi ELKY,I am about to build a glass rack for a ute can you please post pics..Cheers Michael