MySwag.org The Off-road Camper Trailer Forum
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: muzza01 on July 06, 2014, 08:01:37 PM
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I know, it's the age old question, should I turbo the 1HZ. To cut to the chase I am really happy with my Cruza. I have done this truck since I bought it stock as a rock about 5 years ago. The only thing that,lets me down is the power or lack of especially dragging the CT up a hill.
I ran in to a mate today (AJ off the forum) and he recently bought a wrecked 105 series with a turboed 1HZ in it. He has swapped this engine into his 105 Cruza and he is really happy with the extra power and his fuel consumption has improved, especially towing the CT.
I know it will be a lot cheaper to turbo my 105 than buy a new (2nd hand) turboed 4B especially when I have expensive tastes and like the 200 and 76 series. ;D
Anyway I would like to ask other swaggers their opinions especially if they have turboed their own 1 HZ. My Cruza has just under 200k Kms, I don't intend to have the boost too high and I may consider an inter cooler. All advice and opinions gratefully received.
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I have a '93 1HZ tilley with an after market turbo on it & it eats up & spits out my mates '95 non turbo equivalent. Also have a 3" exhaust.
Steve
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A Turbo will change the way it drives and you can get some good results going down that path.
But make sure You Get someone who knows what they're doing to set it up Properly for you otherwise it could end in catastrophic engine failure. Get boost and egt gauges too so you know if something bad is happening inside your engine and give you a chance to fix the problem before it melts pistons or something.
I personally don't have one but do have mates that do or have.
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I am going to do it Muzza01.
I have a number of similar threads on here with a lot of advice on the same subject.
You will be told by some that they would never do it again etc etc. however they have all moved on to better more powerful vehicles so that's understandable.
My opinion is that if it's done properly and the boost levels are conservative then your chances of running into problems are reduced.
I am going with Denco, turbo, intercooler and exhaust, set up on the dyno at 8-10 lb of boost max. They are not cheap. But then neither is throwing $60k at a second hand 200 series and I prefer the simplicity of the 80.
Good luck with your research and your decision.
Jas.
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i have put a turbo, intercooler and 3" exhaust on my 1HZ 105 series, the differance between now and stock is chalk and cheese....if you put the turbo on you need to do the bigger exhaust or you're wasting your time, you'll barely notice a differance if you don't.
would i do the same again?....probably not, as i reckon i'd preferred to have chucked a 1HD FTE motor in instead, but nobody was really doing that like they have been the last few years back when i put the turbo set up i have on. I have looked at that option now, but the prices being quoted are rediculous IMHO for a motor with the amount of klms on it they are putting forward as a low klm motor now with the age they are. If i had a stock standard 1HZ now i'd look at trading it on a 76 series instead of adding the turbo, intercooler and exhaust...infact i was actually looking at doing that not too long back even though i have the goodies added on mine.
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I have a '93 1HZ tilley with an after market turbo on it & it eats up & spits out my mates '95 non turbo equivalent. Also have a 3" exhaust.
Steve
Forgot to mention the 300,000 coming up in 4,000ks
Steve
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i have put a turbo, intercooler and 3" exhaust on my 1HZ 105 series, the differance between now and stock is chalk and cheese....if you put the turbo on you need to do the bigger exhaust or you're wasting your time, you'll barely notice a differance if you don't.
would i do the same again?....probably not, as i reckon i'd preferred to have chucked a 1HD FTE motor in instead, but nobody was really doing that like they have been the last few years back when i put the turbo set up i have on. I have looked at that option now, but the prices being quoted are rediculous IMHO for a motor with the amount of klms on it they are putting forward as a low klm motor now with the age they are. If i had a stock standard 1HZ now i'd look at trading it on a 76 series instead of adding the turbo, intercooler and exhaust...infact i was actually looking at doing that not too long back even though i have the goodies added on mine.
You would be happy with the 76 for towing, however off road compared to your 100 you would be bitterly dissapointed. We have one for work and it's hopeless. Did a 10 vehicle 4wd trip today in the blue mountains. A very well sorted 76 (lots of $$$) was the only vehicle to constantly get stuck. Very poor articulation, narrow track and the combo is just hopeless.
76 engine in a 100 on the other hand would equal miles of ;D !
Jas
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I have done it. Turbo, intercooler, 3inch exhaust on a hz105 with 33's, bar work, steel roof rack
It had an air/water intercooler, had that ripped off it started to leak
Exhaust always requires adjusting as it does not have flexible joint
Uses more fuel than factory V8
Broken a gear box, it is only designed for naturally aspirated - ie the hilux gearbox
Would not use a large diesel shop as have found them one faced a holes best most helpful businesses have been small ones
If you want to do it consider upgrading gearbox and putting in the 1hd-fte motor don't waste your money turboing it
the hz105 is the worst fourby to turbo IMHO, upgrade to something new
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I know, it's the age old question, should I turbo the 1HZ.
Not designed for it. Just like the 3L 2.8 Tojo.
Some last, some don't.
I reckon there are two options depending on how you approach it.
If you are accepting that you are taking a risk but prepared to take it and the $$ it might cost then go for it.
If you are not accepting of the risk and will be mighty peeved if it goes bang and can't justify the $$ then don't.
I went down this track with my 2.8 4runner and killed it on the hills out of Sydney. Cooling system was perfect head let go. You will hear people telling you to intercool so the charge is cooled but then your just making the bang bigger as the air is denser - more bang more heat - more boom
:)
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Some say not to, I'll say go for it.
My 94 Troopy has just shy of 450,000 on the clock. Turbo was fitted by a Turbo Dynamics agent in central west NSW at about 75,000 k.
There has never been a problem at all, the engine has had no surgery at all, just pump, injectors, cam belts etc etc. I don't have boost or any other gauges, no need.
I serviced the turbo for the sake of it recently and to clean it up as I fitted the oil catch can.
My guess is that those who have had troubles have had the troubles due to lack of maintenance.
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When we decided to buy a 1HZ cruiser I originally wanted to buy one which has already had a turbo fitted. But after some research I started reading stories about turbo’s leading to engine failure.
I put that down to turbo‘s being set up with too much boost, so decided to look for a non-turbo and get it done myself properly at a later date. It then took a couple of months to find a nice cruiser and due to a couple of unexpected house expenses I put off adding a turbo for another 8-12 months.
Once I had the money I then start researching turbo’s for the 1HZ again and I started reading stories of conservative owners who didn’t have the boost up too much and regularly serviced the car ending up with cracked pistons etc.
I decided to keep the 1HZ standard as didn’t want to enter the turbo minefield. My take is 50% of the 1HZ with turbo’s can handle huge boost and being punished daily, but the other 50% will go boom at some stage. Thing is, no one knows which of the above categories your motor is going to fall into!! I also believe the 1HZ in the 80 series cruisers handles the turbo better than the 1HZ in the 100 series cruisers.
If I had the money I would do a conversion to the factory TD motor, but as Rumpig says the cost of this is ridiculous.
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we looked to turbo our old 80 but a lot of mechanics recommended that the cost out ways the value compared to putting the money into a newer rig, hence we bought 100 factory turbo amazing the difference power and fuel economy, let alone comfort. just a different view for thought.
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My guess is that those who have had troubles have had the troubles due to lack of maintenance.
Any evidence to support this theory?
(That's sounds argumentative but not meant to be)
Edit: just realised yours is a troops. That's an amazing result as they have the worst overheating record of all the cruisers as the air flow is less through engine bay. Sounds like a good bus!
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Any evidence to support this theory?
(That's sounds argumentative but not meant to be)
Edit: just realised yours is a troops. That's an amazing result as they have the worst overheating record of all the cruisers as the air flow is less through engine bay. Sounds like a good bus!
Valid question it is sir, no arguments for me, but, my comment is from the days when I was a mechanic who was either installing the turbos or maintaining the 4wd's. I always without failure found signs neglect or abuse in engines with aftermarket turbos fitted and a costly failure. The neglect took various forms, sometimes absolute stupidity as well.
However, if it is well cared for, just the way your intended to without the turbo, it will be fine.
My Troopy, yes, high temps under the bonnet for sure, that is why the bull bar sits long way forward and the radiator has been swapped for a bigger type.
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Can you get the old engine off your mate, slap a set of turbo pistons, 1HDT rods and freshen it up a touch, then turbo that one?
Yes, will add to the initial cost. Probably less than the possible ongoing cost though.
Shane.
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Can you get the old engine off your mate, slap a set of turbo pistons, 1HDT rods and freshen it up a touch, then turbo that one?
Yes, will add to the initial cost. Probably less than the possible ongoing cost though.
Shane.
No he is swapping engines and trying to sell the wrecked car to a mob up here that chops wagons into utes.
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. You will hear people telling you to intercool so the charge is cooled but then your just making the bang bigger as the air is denser - more bang more heat - more boom
:)
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Actually mate, intercooling is doing the engine a big favour. Every degree you pull out of the intake charge air drops EGT's by 2-2.5 degrees so if pre-intercooler temps are 140-150 degrees and post intercooler temps are down to 40-50 you've pulled 100 degrees out of the intake charge and you will see a significant drop of 200-250 degrees in EGT's depending on boost and how much the pump has been wound up. At the end of the day keeping EGT's under control is probably going to be your biggest hurdle and will likely be what will kill most aftermarket turbo diesel setups.
my advice if going down the turbo route would be, get the injectors freshened up - new nozzles and reset cracking pressure, get the biggest intercooler you can physically fit in there, look into a bigger radiator, check the condition of your viscous fan, as stated earlier fit good quality EGT, boost and water temp gauges, and once the kit is fitted up get the injector pump set up on the dyno by a competent diesel workshop - not some twit who keeps winding the rack screw in till its blowing a bit of soot. this is what will crack pistons and burn out exhaust valves.
my 2 cents worth from building my own years ago and cleaning up the aftermath of a few sub standard setups on other peoples rigs
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My guess is that those who have had troubles have had the troubles due to lack of maintenance.
agree 100% with this, shorter service intervals are a must
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I've got a mate who has just done this, and his EGT's seem to run higher than mine (factory turbo diesel). He has had a few overheating issues because of it but is happy overall
Aaron
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I've got a 1HZ spare block here and have plans to build a turbo engine for my old 75 , just have to stop spending all my coin on other bits ...
will follow your progress Muzza .
cheers
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I rang Ray Hall turbos today. His reputation is 10/10 up here for turbos. He has been operating out of the same place for 35 years just down the road from where I grew up. As of the beginning of this month, he no longer fits turbos due to age and illness. I can't believe I have left my run too late by a couple of weeks.
His spin on the 1HZ is simple, don't get too greedy on the power and try and get this motor too perform higher than its capabilities. Keep that in mind and I won't have any problems.
Got to go and drink :cheers: now, I will discuss more later.
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Actually mate, intercooling is doing the engine a big favour.
Yes of course it does.
However, the air mix is now denser which means more air which means more bang which means more heat. The 1hz head does not like heat.
So what I was saying is that saying fitting an intercooler will help with keeping it cool is a misnomer because you are actually getting more power from it. Yep, the air from the turbo compression will be cool due to the intercooler which helps but then that cooler charged air results in more power and more power = more heat.
My comment was only directed at the 1hz (and the 3L and 5L) not diesels in general.
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I rang Ray Hall turbos today. His reputation is 10/10 up here for turbos. He has been operating out of the same place for 35 years just down the road from where I grew up.
Was he in Anderson St, half way along on the sth side?
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Valid question it is sir, no arguments for me, but, my comment is from the days when I was a mechanic who was either installing the turbos or maintaining the 4wd's. I always without failure found signs neglect or abuse in engines with aftermarket turbos fitted and a costly failure. The neglect took various forms, sometimes absolute stupidity as well.
However, if it is well cared for, just the way your intended to without the turbo, it will be fine.
My Troopy, yes, high temps under the bonnet for sure, that is why the bull bar sits long way forward and the radiator has been swapped for a bigger type.
Thanks Dave. I think why I am on the other side of the camp is when my 3L overheated there was nothing wrong with anything in the cooling system and being a diesel mechanic myself I was on top of the cooling system in particular and was running a thermofan as well.
Interestingly mine only cracked the head to the point that it would only open up when towing or on a hot hot day.
cheers
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the 100 series 1hz has lighter pistons compared to the 80 series apparently so they dont take as well to the extra power a turbo puts through them. my best mate after seeing my DTS set up finally had same set up done to his hungy albeit with reduced psi due to the afor mentioned issues. iv had mine turboed,intercooled and 2.5"' system for about 8 years now no worries , and recently had a tune and it goes better than before now.
if i were to look at it again i would deff go a 1hd-ft or fte conversion as they make the power without the harshness and through a wider range i found after driving a factory turbo hungy.
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My 105 had it's turbo fitted by Ray Hall in 2002.
It now has 360000 km and apart from getting the injectors done about 30,000km ago, the engine has not been touched.
Lots of bits hanging off the engine have been replaced since 300 odd thousand. Starter, alternator, clutch, radiator, air conditioning compressor, but nothing to do with the turbo.
Currently getting about 14 lts per 100 km without the roof rack and 15 point something WITH the roof rack.
Cheers
JGM
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I was thinking about going the turbo path on my 1hz years ago. I decided not too. My current thoughts are to replace the 1hz with a 1hd-t. I read plenty of horror stories of turbo 1hz's going bang, but on the positive side they are a hell of a lot cheaper to buy second hand compared to a factory turbo engine. I personally like the reliability of the 1hz in factory form, yep its slow with the CT hooked on but I jsut deal with it now.
And in regards to keeping the boost low, Graeme from G turbo is running around 20 odd psi though his 1hz kits so it will be interesting to see how they go long term. Graeme certainly knows his Shit when it comes to this so I belive the secret will all be in the tune and not the boost pressure
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Just do it >:D
First thing health check. Make sure the motor and fuel system is good.
Second thing, check your finances don't do it in halves, Denco or DTS systems with intercooler seem to be the go. I had a Denco intercooler system on my 801HZ. Went like a shower of >:D but she was breathed on heavily been an ex comp truck. Have your injectors and fuel pump done as well along with your gauges. It is not cheap to be done properly, don't expect change out of 10 k to do it right the first time. My beasty was pumping 17 pound boost whilst returning under 14's on 35's and she was no light weight.
Third thing. Get the fuelling set correctly by some one who knows what they are doing. To little or to much will hurt the engine making for a very expensive mistake :o
There is a mob in WA that is getting fantastic, RELIABLE power out of them pumping a lot more boost than you would think. Fuel to air ratios are the key.
Fourth thing, DRIVE IT :angel: >:D, you will wonder why you haven't done it earlier.
Cheers Chris
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This is the mob in WA http://gturbo.com.au/turbo-models/ (http://gturbo.com.au/turbo-models/)
Cheers, Chris :cheers:
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I know it will be a lot cheaper to turbo my 105 than buy a new (2nd hand) turboed 4B especially when I have expensive tastes and like the 200 and 76 series. ;D
After reading some of the posts by those more recently in the know (dave, komaterpiller and 4runner et al) I have probably softened a little. Most of my knowledge / exp goes back to around 2005 when I wanted to do this exact thing.
So the answer from me would be a maybe.
It is definitely worth considering all the options before spending so much (up to $10k as suggested). Have you thought of selling the diesel and going with a petrol instead? Your diesel will sell at a premium over the petrol so there is a saving. Put that money towards just the right petrol model in the right condition and away you go.
Our 105 5sp 4.5 returned 16 lphk on the highway and 18 around Hobart. It would tow our off road race buggy at whatever speed you want and easily pull 140 overtaking slow vehicles through the tas midlands.
Simply on a cost benefit analysis spending 10K to get slightly better fuel economy and less power than the petrol does not make sense particularly when diesel costs on average 3c per litre more than petrol.
I absolutely LOVED the power of our petrol cruiser.
Good luck with whatever decision you make!
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After reading some of the posts by those more recently in the know (dave, komaterpiller and 4runner et al) I have probably softened a little. Most of my knowledge / exp goes back to around 2005 when I wanted to do this exact thing.
So the answer from me would be a maybe.
It is definitely worth considering all the options before spending so much (up to $10k as suggested). Have you thought of selling the diesel and going with a petrol instead? Your diesel will sell at a premium over the petrol so there is a saving. Put that money towards just the right petrol model in the right condition and away you go.
Our 105 5sp 4.5 returned 16 lphk on the highway and 18 around Hobart. It would tow our off road race buggy at whatever speed you want and easily pull 140 overtaking slow vehicles through the tas midlands.
Simply on a cost benefit analysis spending 10K to get slightly better fuel economy and less power than the petrol does not make sense particularly when diesel costs on average 3c per litre more than petrol.
I absolutely LOVED the power of our petrol cruiser.
Good luck with whatever decision you make!
Some good thinking there Dazzler.
These at all the decisions I have had to reconcile before going this way with my 80 Series. I have investigated the other options exactly as you have suggested and had a great and frank discussion with Big Jules about his V8 100 series as a potential vehicle to swap over to. Jules was very honest in his opinion.
With regards to my case my cruiser has just clocked 240k is in good condition and has about $12k worth of options fitted. It's value (being a DX) is probably no more that $12-15k on the second hand market. The turbo system I will fit is $7k. So I did my research looking at vehicles up to $20-25k. There are some around and as you suggest you get a lot more if you look at petrols. However these vehicle also have highish Km's and are an unknown quantity, so they are not risk free either.
I have had the money put aside now for two or three months and have not bit the bullet as I am still umming and arrring about the investment. I realise the turbo will add $0 to the value of my cruiser, and essentially the $7k will be lost. However my vehicle will still be worth $10-15k for the foreseeable future.
So if the intention is to keep the vehicle for 5 or more years is $1200 bucks a year a lot of money in the scheme of things?
Lastly my alternative vehicle is a 200 series GX. Whilst I can afford to borrow the $60k required for a second hand one. The loan payments and depreciation would be more than $7k in the first month, not to mention the additional cost of accessories to get it to where the 80 is now.
I have done 12000 Km's in 2 years in the 80, so I just cannot justify spending the money on a 200. And to be frank have struggled to justify the turbo for the 80. Until I put the KK on the back that is, then it does my head in. But the rest of the time off roading it is perfect as is.
The turbo will go on, but only after I procrastinate for a while longer! If it blows up then I will stuff a 6L V8 in it and be done. I have actually be investigating a 5.7l V8 Gen 3 conversion as it can be done for close to $7k and I would get $3-$4k for the 1HZ.
If only I was younger and had more bogan in me I would have gone this way for sure!
Jas
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I guess by now Muzza you have made some cost comparisons for the various ways to get a result.
I see 3 x ways myself.
1. Turbo and other needs for the TUG as it is now. = $X
2. Swap out the engine for the later model that has the turbo and fit to this tug. = $Y
3. Spruce up the Tug, sell it, buy another with all the trimmings you need and the donk under the hood you looking for. = $Z
Which is the cheapest of the 3? Also, when deciding what is cheapest your time lost for messing about needs to be put into the equation. For me, I have no idea what may be cheapest. I recon it could be worth having a nation wide search for option 3. Never know your luck with that option....
Have you done any pricing yet?
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I would go and see Leigh Holman at SVS automotive in Bungalow, Cairns.
He fitted the turbo and intercooler to my old 105 series by the previous owner.
It's a MTQ system using a Mitsubishi TD05 turbo and Safari front mount intercooler running at 13PSI.
Regards
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I put up with my HZJ 105 cruiser for about 5 years and it was just tolerable on the highway, load it up with family and camping gear on the roof rack and it was painful, then I bough a camper van and hung it off the back and just became ridiculously slow, not so much on steep hills it always was slow ,but moderate hills saw it regularly back to 60 with a big line of traffic behind me, (i'd move over as soon as i was able) it could just get to 100 on level ground and the only thing I can recall overtaking EVER, with the van on, was a backhoe!,
The cruiser had a bit of stuff in it and it was everything I wanted in 4by but it just didn't have enough power
I was also anti turbo the 1 HZ and issues with the hilux-ish gearbox was also present in my mind, but I HAD to do something, I was pointed to a reputable turbo fitter in the eastern suburbs of Brisbane and decided the part with the $6K, This fitter also goes thru and check all aspects of tuning, not just give more fuel and a heap of boost, checks radiator and viscous fan, he also fits a low water alarm as standard.
He advised me that a 2.5 inch exhaust would be enough but a 3 inch exhaust would help the turbo spool up at bottom end revs, no real gain with overall power, just helps get there sooner.
Mine is set at 10 psi boost, peak torque is around 1900-2000 rpm.
THE NEGATIVE, it does use more fuel when towing, may be 2-3 liters/100ks more, but a massive difference in towing capability,
You have to really watch the temp gauge, full power such as a mountain climb for extended periods can see the gauge climb, it will stay normal for some time, but once it begins to move it moves quick, same can be said for cooling as soon as the foot comes off, the gauge drops just as quick, MUST KEEP an eye on temps, never ever had a problem with temps pre turbo, but I never ever saw the fast lane uphill either, mind you, any 18 year chick in mums hyundai will still leave you behind at the lights from a standstill with out too much problem, how ever once you get going it moves along alright.
The 3 inch exhaust is a tight fit, sometimes under full power in say second gear, the exhaust just touches the chassis somewhere and give just a slight rattle, not intrusive or annoying, it can be heard, no big deal for me.
I found my fuel economy didn't really change much during the day to day work/school/shopping runs, usually get mid to high 12's/100k,
My installer advertised 50% increase in power, well he got 85% out of mine(dyno charts to show0, mainly due to the fact he knew how to tune a 1HZ, valve timing and clearances where done as well as fuel timing and mixtures, injector nozzles where also replaced.
I got mine done at 150000,, now has 210000 and I haven't been back, why?, because he done it right the first time.
Would I do it again? YEP, after 5 years without a turbo, getting it done was like getting a new vehicle, I'm much happier with the cruiser I've got, still doesn't match any 3 liter 4 cylinder brigade of today in power or fuel efficiency, but can get along at an acceptable pace even when towing, I have no plans for an update but i'm not completely oblivious to the current crop of vehicles, I drove my fathers 550nm Navara and was very impressed with its awesome (almost addictive) power but I didn't like the auto, didn't like the transfer controls either, (standard on pretty much all 4 by's today), or the way it handled on dirt roads, a lot of new stuff cant have tyre and suspension mods without upsetting some vehicle computer control module.
Breaking gearboxs, cracking heads, cooking motors, all sound a bit like over fueling of perhaps maybe getting a bit greedy with power and pushing things too hard, all this stuff can also happen to un modified vehicles also, I broke the front diff in mine but so have plenty others without a turbo
I'm glad I did mine and apart from having to watch the temperature when towing up long hills, have had zero problems.
Shane
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Shane, may I assume you have the 4 core radiator fitted? Temp should rise a bit but then level off until you ease off the gas.
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I have a '93 1HZ tilley with an after market turbo on it & it eats up & spits out my mates '95 non turbo equivalent. Also have a 3" exhaust.
Steve
Towed this for several hundred highway klms (well Brissie to Tannum Sands, so not really a highway) & temp gauge didn't move from normal! Sorry I couldn't be of more help Muz!
Steve
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Shaned.
Are you judging your temperatures off the factory gauge? If so it works like this on mine. Mostly my cruiser sits on 76 degrees which is the thermostat temp. The factory gauge shows the normal position from 76 to 98 degrees. It then rapidly rises from 98 to 105 indicating hot.
I have fitted an engine watch dog for $150 which gives real time temp readings. This allows me to keep an eye out as the temp climbs and adjust my driving accordingly.
Jas
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Was he in Anderson St, half way along on the sth side?
Yeah that's him Dave
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I would go and see Leigh Holman at SVS automotive in Bungalow, Cairns.
He fitted the turbo and intercooler to my old 105 series by the previous owner.
It's a MTQ system using a Mitsubishi TD05 turbo and Safari front mount intercooler running at 13PSI.
Regards
I will give him a call tomorrow.
OK guys thanks to all so far. I have certainly got a lot of opinions that I asked for, thanks to all so far.
I can't justify the huge expense of the 1HD or the FTE transplant. I can't afford a 200s for some time either.
I have contacted a few places so far discussing their opinions on the setup. I really thi k I am going to go ahead with this. I will keep thi king a out it and I am appreciating all of the feedback and advice. I have also been reading heaps on LCOOL.
This is what I am looking at doing. New injectors, turbo, 2.5 inch mandrel exhaust, boost and EGT gauges fitted.
This is going to cost between $5 and $6K according to quotes. I have had the Cruza for 5 years now and if I turbo it I will keep it for another five. I had my last Cruza for 10 years.
Everyone I talk to has told me that I don't need a 3 inch system or an intercooled for the setup that I want. This has saved a bit of coin but I am reluctant to spend more than $6k. I will keep yous all informed. Thanks again. :cheers:
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Muzza
Great that you are going ahead as I will be doing the same also. You are right that an intercooler is not required for the 1HZ. It does add $$ and also a bit more power.
I have done all of this research also for myself and have a number of similar threads on here.
For what it's worth I have settled on the Denco intercooled system. $7100 drive in, drive out. This includes, a dyno check prior to any work being carried out, fitting of the system, which includes new manifold, full 2 1/2 inch exhaust, water to air intercooler, full post fitment dyno tune and pump adjustments as required. Should my truck need the injectors or valve clearances done this would be additional.
There are a number of kits I would be happy with, however Denco has received a good rap, produce quality components and there head office is within a 4-5 hour drive of me in Wagga Wagga, so they are pretty convenient.
Jas
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Quotes so far
Turbo place number 1 which is a diesel turbo company.
Denco Turbo fitted for $3850. May need to rework on fuel pump if so could add another $1400. May need injectors done if so $5-600. 3 inch exhaust extra $1000.
$4850 for turbo and exhaust.
Turbo place number 2 which is another diesel turbo company
DTS turbo fitted for $3550. May need to service injectors add $600 and he highly recommends that I do 2.5 inch system fitted $640.
$4741 for turbo and exhaust.
$5300 for turbo and beaudesert 3 inch
turbo place number 3. Performance petrol and diesel place
safari Turbo fitted for $3950. Extra $600 if injectors need service but doubts that they will need it.
Beaudesert 3 inch exhaust fitted
$5350 for turbo and 2.5 exhaust
$5915 for turbo and 3 inch beaudesert exhaust
Option four is a mechanic I know very well that has done a few 1HZ turbos
I buy a DTS kit for $2710 a 2.5 inch exhaust kit for $510 or beaudesert 3 inch for $1070 service injectors if needed for $600 maybe $1200 labour
$4420 for turbo and 2.5 inch exhaust
$5070 for turbo and 3.0 inch beaudesert
Option four is my preferred option with turbo place number three my second.
Advice please gents.
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Just remember Gentlemen that your manual gearboxes may need work/ replacement in the future as the standard box doesn't like too much power.
Regards
Angus.
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Just remember Gentlemen that your manual gearboxes may need work/ replacement in the future as the standard box doesn't like too much power.
Regards
Angus.
Which box do they run?
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I have the R151. If and when it brakes I will look at the H151 as a replacement.
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Just remember Gentlemen that your manual gearboxes may need work/ replacement in the future as the standard box doesn't like too much power.
Regards
Angus.
Same goes with the clutch!
Don't be surprised if a turbo/ic addition makes it slip!
depends on how fresh it is.
cheers
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Valid points about the transmission, however, there is always another side of the coin.
My original gear box has been out twice, once to swap original toyota clutch for heavy duty type at about 100,000 I think, then recently by me as she slipped a bit draggiong the camper over a sand dune. that was at 440,000.
The box has a PTO hanging on the side for the winch, no surgery on it ever.
I think it comes down to how you use it.
PS, Yes, I change gears with out the use of the clutch, a lot.
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I know you're talking cruisers but just putting a vote for dts kits. I fitted one in my old gq very happy.
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I have the R151. If and when it brakes I will look at the H151 as a replacement.
i wouldn't stress much about the clutch or gearbox if you're sensible with how you drive. I've had my intercooled turbo set up on my 1HZ for over 6 years now, towed plenty of trailers for work and holidays in that time and am still on the same gearbox. I have replaced the clutch, but that was because i was having some other work done which required the box to come out, so i put a new clutch in just because it was out already.
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The clutch in mine is factory still at 240,00km. She has done two laps and a Simpson desert crossing before I owned her. I have a slight transfer case leak in the front seal, so when I pull the box out to fix that I will throw a new clutch in then.
I to have the R151 I believe, however I rarely tow in 5th and just poke along. So far so good.
There is always something, my vehicle is 17 years old so it pays to be sensible and realistic. There are plenty of modern hi powered diesels with all the bells and whistles that are spitting gearboxes and engine parts out all over the road that will never make it to the age of my old bus let alone be a viable thing to keep going at that age unfortunately.
Jas
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Second thing, check your finances don't do it in halves, Denco or DTS systems with intercooler seem to be the go. I had a Denco intercooler system on my 801HZ. Went like a shower of >:D but she was breathed on heavily been an ex comp truck. Have your injectors and fuel pump done as well along with your gauges. It is not cheap to be done properly, don't expect change out of 10 k to do it right the first time.
I agree with your points, and if doing all those items adds up to around 10k, then your not far off a factory turbo engine swap. I know which option I'd rather have.
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I agree with your points, and if doing all those items adds up to around 10k, then your not far off a factory turbo engine swap. I know which option I'd rather have.
good luck finding someone to do a conversion for not much more then $10K going on the recent drive in drive out quote I got recently
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be prepared for a couple of hundred dollars in shims also
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good luck finding someone to do a conversion for not much more then $10K going on the recent drive in drive out quote I got recently
Sorry, should have mentioned thats based on a 1hd-t swap, not FTE ;D But for me its a job I'd do myself and not get the drive in drive out option, but I realise thats not for everyone
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Sorry, should have mentioned thats based on a 1hd-t swap, not FTE ;D But for me its a job I'd do myself and not get the drive in drive out option, but I realise thats not for everyone
Well I made my decision today. The Cruza will be going to Cape York Auto for the turbo fit.
I am getting a DTS turbo and fitting a 3 inch mandrel bent Taipan XP. I was leaning towards the Beaudesert 3 inch system but I have decided to spend a bit more coin on the Taipan. It has a ceramic coated dump pipe, 1.6mm thick wall system, 200 cell diesel cat converter, 10mm flange plates with the vortex gen 2 muffler.
They want it for a couple of days, I booked it in for Monday week. Can't wait to see what I get out of the dyno.
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Shane, may I assume you have the 4 core radiator fitted? Temp should rise a bit but then level off until you ease off the gas.
I dunno whats in there, I cant see because of shrouds and aircon condenser, but i'm 99% sure it's the factory item, I bought mine second hand, it was previously owned by QLD rail and had 80 thou K's
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The 4 core radiator fits between the same tanks, top and bottom. Best way to see it is to have the cap off and look inside and count the rows of tubes, front to rear. The 4 core type is 4 rows across.
Isn't expensive to swap it out for better cooling.
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Shaned.
Are you judging your temperatures off the factory gauge? If so it works like this on mine. Mostly my cruiser sits on 76 degrees which is the thermostat temp. The factory gauge shows the normal position from 76 to 98 degrees. It then rapidly rises from 98 to 105 indicating hot.
I have fitted an engine watch dog for $150 which gives real time temp readings. This allows me to keep an eye out as the temp climbs and adjust my driving accordingly.
Ja
Yes, I am working off the factory gauge, I also am aware that Toyota factor in a "panic" buffer into the temp gauge, that is why it needs constant monitoring, once the gauge begins to move above normal position, then you know that it already has begun to get hot, the gauge will then climb quickly
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The 4 core radiator fits between the same tanks, top and bottom. Best way to see it is to have the cap off and look inside and count the rows of tubes, front to rear. The 4 core type is 4 rows across.
Isn't expensive to swap it out for better cooling.
AHHH, I just went outside with a torch and tried to see thru, flat out seeing the radiator at all, got no idea how it even gets cool with every thing in front of it
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Well I made my decision today. The Cruza will be going to Cape York Auto for the turbo fit.
I am getting a DTS turbo and fitting a 3 inch mandrel bent Taipan XP. I was leaning towards the Beaudesert 3 inch system but I have decided to spend a bit more coin on the Taipan. It has a ceramic coated dump pipe, 1.6mm thick wall system, 200 cell diesel cat converter, 10mm flange plates with the vortex gen 2 muffler.
They want it for a couple of days, I booked it in for Monday week. Can't wait to see what I get out of the dyno.
wait till your first drive >:D you will wonder why you did not do it 5 years ago. :angel:
it will be like getting into a new car and now the quest for more will start. ;D
cheers, Chris :cheers:
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wait till your first drive >:D you will wonder why you did not do it 5 years ago. :angel:
it will be like getting into a new car and now the quest for more will start. ;D
cheers, Chris :cheers:
I am hearing you brother, I can't wait
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then youll wonder why you didnt intercool it as well at the same time....best mod i ever did aside from the cruise control.
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I am hearing you brother, I can't wait
I had my TD42 turboed after I had it a year and a trip to the Vic high country in 97/98 ??
Wow! What a change!
apart from the cost, you'll be smacking yourself in the head wondering why it took you soooo longggggggggg!
cheers
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OK, waiting to pick up the Cruza. She has just gone for a second run on the dyno and final check over. Sitting in the waiting room getting excited :D
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OK, waiting to pick up the Cruza. She has just gone for a second run on the dyno and final check over. Sitting in the waiting room getting excited :D
Big thumbs up Muzza :D
James
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Soooooooo what's the verdict?
And
:worthles:
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Yeah Muzz, we're keen to see how it went......
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I would say he is still doing laps with a grin from ear to ear
GG
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It's like I got a new Cruza. Put your foot on the loud pedal and we go. Overtook two cars on the way home, I didn't need to but I did because I could ;D
On the way home driving up the hill in 4th gear for the first time ever. For the last five years it has been 3rd gear, 3100 rpm and 60 kmph, today 4th gear and 70kmph (had a car in front of me slowing me down).
I might take the CT for a spin tomorrow. Couldn't be happier ATM. I going for another strap around the block shortly.
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Excellent!!
Does it whistle??..... ;D ;D
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Good stuff muzza
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Excellent!!
Does it whistle??..... ;D ;D
Believe it or not, no. The DTS is a very quiet turbo, the 3inch mandrel Taipan XP exhaust however is not quiet ;D. Just took the young bloke for a spin around the block. That was fun, goes like a shower of shi7 and sounds awesome. In case you hadn't noticed I am very excited at the moment.
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....... In case you hadn't noticed I am very excited at the moment.
Yes, I did notice. ;D
You'll be up and over those ranges with ease now.
Enjoy...... :cup: :cup:
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Just watch out for the whiplash mate ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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watch ya fuel economy head the wrong way now :)
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watch ya fuel economy head the wrong way now :)
After me and my young bloke went for a wheel last night he asked me "will it chew more fuel now Dad?" I said "if I keep driving it like we just did then it surely will.
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After me and my young bloke went for a wheel last night he asked me "will it chew more fuel now Dad?" I said "if I keep driving it like we just did then it surely will.
yup, you have more power u use it :D Ya don't make power without fuel
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yup, you have more power u use it :D Ya don't make power without fuel
Yeah I might check out the economy in a few tanks from now. I might have a bit of fun and waste some diesel for the remainder of this tank and the next one ;D
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Glad it worked out as you hoped Muzza.
My old troopy beats a mates 100 series GXL (with half the k's) up a hill in the local 110 k zone, he's usually near 90 k p/h by the top, and I'm about 107. Guess has no turbo.
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Woops
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Woops
???
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Woops
??? ???
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What happened? ???
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I get the feeling he updated his wrong thread....
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I get the feeling he updated his wrong thread....
He did ;D