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General => General Discussion => Topic started by: Goose on September 18, 2013, 10:47:58 AM
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I want to paint the inside of the house, but the cost of hiring a painter at this time of year is prohibitive.
I got quoted $2500 to paint 2 bathroom ceilings and a garage cieling. Both bathrooms are approx 2.5m x 3.5m and the existing paint job is flaking so sanding is needed. The single car garage is unpainted plaster at present. That quote included $500 in materials, which i calculate at being approx 10 * 4L tins, which seems a lot of paint hey.
I do reasonably well on the walls, but I really struggle with ceilings. What's the best way to learn/practice ceiling painting? My house has regular 8-foot ceilings.
Also, what's the best way to paint skirting boards when there is already carpet against them? Don't want to rip up the carpet, its only 1 year old. I usually skip them and just do the walls but in this case i need to the skirting boards.
Goose.
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Mate its not that hard. Just cut in your cornices and go for it with the roller as you would the walls but use a flat ceiling paint.
As for the skirts, if it was me id take them off to paint them.
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The best way is to get another quote.
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The best way is to get another quote.
agree.
I've had success and none before with Service Central before...
https://www.servicecentral.com.au/ (https://www.servicecentral.com.au/)
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As for the skirts, if it was me id take them off to paint them.
What's the best way to get them off without?
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When we painted throughout, I left the tricky jobs to the wife, she's got a whole lot more patience than me......
But, seriously, you can do it yourself for much, much, less.
We took our time, prepared properly whicht is the only way, and just relaxed and did it.
It was hard up and down the work platform, and the ladder, but well worth it for the savings.
We bought 4l tins which are more expensive than the bigger 10l ones, but easier to manage.
There's a great ceiling paint, goes on pink, drys white.
If we were to do it again, which I'm sure we will, I'd be using that paint.
Bought good quality brushes and rollers, and looked after them. Drop shelter everything, and taped up the delicate bits.
You can cut in around the cornices, with angle brush and iroller the rest.
As for the skirtings, dont remove them, you can tape up and prepare better and brush them.
Remember, a good point I finally learned after quite some time.
'Don't look too closely. You'll drive yourself mad, just step back and look at the whole job. I used to get hung uo in doing the minute areas like door frames, and wanted them perfect.
Everybody that cane round I asked if they could see the mistake, all said it was great and never noticed it.
I did, because I was inches away and looking at it.
Another trick we did was go and look at new houses and show homes. Then we went back hone and realised we weren't doing such a bad job after all.
Intact, in many we looked at, we realised we took more care and attention. Probably because we were doing it ourselves, for ourselves.
Prep is the key, do.t start painting till its all done and done properly.
Save yourselves a bundle by doing it yourself.
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What's the best way to get them off without?
Its a bit hard to say without looking at them in your particular situation but in the past i have taken mine off by getting something under them and giving them a little tweak where the nails go in and then using a scraper or something in behind them from the top and gentle pry them off the wall with out damaging the wall but once again its hard to say if you can do that in your case. You might need to slide a scraper or something in from the top to gently separate them them a touch from the wall first for instance?
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Use an enamel undercoat and top coat for the bathroom ceilings. Plastic won't last in the steam.
Haymes make a flat white enamel.
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I will do it for $1000. Just make sure there is nothing in the room the big spray gun will hit. ;D
Mark
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Ceilings are easy to paint. If in doubt mask up the cornice/wall junction with the blue painters masking tape. If I am doing a whole room I won't mask this bit as I paint the ceiling and cornices first then it is an easy cut in for the walls. As cruisindub mentioned the Dulux ceiling paint that goes on pink and dries white is excellent.
Also I don't recommend water based enamel for the timberwork. The coverage is crap. It takes two coats of primer and 2 of colour to get a half decent job and it doesn't wear well.
Don't remove the skirting. A lot of it is finger jointed pine or MDF these days and it will come apart damaged too easy if you try to remove then when you re-install you will need to fill the nail holes and paint these anyway.
To paint the skirting mask the wall and I use a 300-400mm wall paper scraper blade from Bunnings with a yellow handle to place down between the carpet and skirting. You may need to wipe the edge of the scraper every now and then but it isn't a bad thing.
Edit
As others have said buy good gear if you can and look after it. Again from Bunnings a paint scraper with a scallop in it is good for scraping excess paint out of your roller when you have finished. Also buy a roller extension handle approx. 1500mm for walls and ceiling.
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Find the episode of Mr Bean, he has a great painting technique!!! ;D
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Mr Bean
Mr Bean - Painting his house (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9MAmWnOznI#)
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I watched a MythBusters episode on the Mr Bean theory of painting. Funnily enough it was busted ;D
I would watch out using that "goes on pink dries white" paint on bathroom ceilings. From my experience when the vapour from the shower condenses on the roof then you will get pink water drops forming in the roof.
My father in law showed me a great trick for painting skirting boards/cutting in etc... He has alongish (60cm or so) piece of thin sheet metal and uses this as a guide/protector. Should work well with carpet as the sheet metal will hold back the carpet, only issue is when you move on the carpet will stick the the paint as it dries.
Bunyip
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My father in law showed me a great trick for painting skirting boards/cutting in etc... He has alongish (60cm or so) piece of thin sheet metal and uses this as a guide/protector.
Or go to you local sheet metal fabricator and get something out of their scrap bin, or even get a 6 or 7 foot bit folded up. Have just been purchasing some flashings for our current renos, I think a bit of 100mm wide colorbond with 2 folds was about $5 or $6/m. One fold (of say 30 degrees in the middle just to give it a bit of rigidity) would probably be a bit less. Either way, $20 would save a hell of a lot of masking, mess etc.
Peter
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You can also hire ceiling sanders from Coates/Kennards etc so you dont have to climb up and down ladders, a good tip for your rollers between coats of paint is to wrap them in glad wrap nice and tight and the paint wont dry and you dont have to spend 20 minutes each time bent over the sink washing them :cheers:
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pole sander.. your neck gets sore but just once you get the rythym look straight ahead and just check every now and then..
my missus and i painted our house and yes she has more patience so had the joy of cutting in and accurate bits.. i just blatted it all with a medium nap roller and dont use gloss! (on doors and architraves sure)
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Hi,
clean your rollers with a high pressure hose, BUT make up a shield so you don't get plastered with the spray. (try it with a clean one first to see what I mean)
It will come out fluffy and dry and last for years.
cheers
edit, Roller goes on the end of a broom stick (about 1.5m) to give you a bit of clearance from the spray.
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Hi,
clean your rollers with a high pressure hose, BUT make up a shield so you don't get plastered with the spray. (try it with a clean one first to see what I mean)
It will come out fluffy and dry and last for years.
cheers
edit, Roller goes on the end of a broom stick (about 1.5m) to give you a bit of clearance from the spray.
Again from Bunnings I purchased a roller cleaner that clips onto the end of the garden hose. You insert the roller into the tube and clip the roller handle under a hook. It doesn't spin the roller but forces water through it and comes out clean.
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10x4 litre tins? A bit tooooo much I would say. Probably 10 litres at a minimum and twenty max. That would easily give you two coats. It's ceiling paint so no tinting required unless you want a different shade. The room that is unpainted needs two coats, one to seal and one to finish off. Nowadays sealant over plaster is not required providing you buy half decent paint.
Wayne
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If you need some practice my house is full of ceilings ;D
Should take 10 litres tops.
Use flat paint as it doesnt show marks as much
I use Taubmans for the ceiling it has some mould inhibitor.
2 coats at least as you are bund to miss some areas or put it on too light.
I use a pole.
Cheap rollers. Takes a bit to get the loose fluff of before use. Wrap in gladwrap between coats if using that day or the next. Throw in bin instead of washing.
It will take a bit to sand it back in the bathroom. Whack on a 3 in 1 sealer,undercoat,primer on any exposed plaster (not paper) and any repair patches. That way you get a even sheen and no dull spots.
Practice on the garage as it is less important.
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I want to paint the inside of the house, but the cost of hiring a painter at this time of year is prohibitive.
I got quoted $2500 to paint 2 bathroom ceilings and a garage cieling. Both bathrooms are approx 2.5m x 3.5m and the existing paint job is flaking so sanding is needed. The single car garage is unpainted plaster at present. That quote included $500 in materials, which i calculate at being approx 10 * 4L tins, which seems a lot of paint hey.
I do reasonably well on the walls, but I really struggle with ceilings. What's the best way to learn/practice ceiling painting? My house has regular 8-foot ceilings.
Also, what's the best way to paint skirting boards when there is already carpet against them? Don't want to rip up the carpet, its only 1 year old. I usually skip them and just do the walls but in this case i need to the skirting boards.
Goose.
Price does seem high, but depends on the prep work required. How badly is it flaking and whats the existing paint finish? It could need a scrap, sand, a light plaster skim coat and sand to get it ready for paint. If the the cornices are flaking too that adds man hours of prep, worse if it's detailed cornices.
My BIL just finished sanding and painting a 50 year old (stuffed!) bathroom previously painted in now flaking gloss enamel. In the time it took him, I reckon I could have re-sheeted the ceiling with new cornices and painted it!
The garage is unpainted, is it all stopped up? joins troweled, nail holes bogged? If it is, has it been sanded? If it's not sanded take massive care if you've never sanding plaster before, a couple of too heavy strokes and you can remove too much of the top coat.
Forget pulling skirting off to paint it. First you have to get if off without damaging the walls or skirting, then re fit it without damage and get all of your internals and externals neat again. Then you still have to putty and paint all the nail holes once it's on again!
As someone said earlier, thin steel sheet is the perfect cutting in tool against carpet. Depending on your skills, if it's broadloom carpet on smooth edge a square room is easy roll up, then relay with a carpet stretcher (about $40) and hammer.
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(https://bnnn72.ssl-cdn.s.mel.secureinf.net/Product-800x800/496616f5-77b0-4407-ad5a-8bb0e874386b.jpg)
For carpet edges. $5 at Bunnings
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The area of the bathrooms is 17.5m² & though not stated the garage is probably only around 20m² ±. Thats a total of max 40m². Paint usually covers around 15m² per litre so therefore if you do 1 undercoat/sealer + 2 finish coats (which i would reccomend) 40 (m²) x 3 (# coats) = 120 / 15(m² per litre) = 8 litres.
So at best (worst) you only need 10l of each & with the leftover you can do the kitchen as well :D. At around $150 for 10l from Bunnings that $300.
Now if the existing ceilings are flaky then once you get the flakes off I would sugest using an oil based undercoat. If the house is old who knows what was originally used. Alternately get what is called a "binder" to seal existing paintwork. A good brand is "Zinzer" (bit dearer than standard) which you can get from bunnings.
If you use water based paint i would suggest that you get low sheen, (unless the ceiling is really uneven, then use flat but add a mould inhibitor).
As far as technique goes do the room that matters most LAST. I would also suggest if you use oil based undercoat then buy a cheap brush & roller & when finished bin them. As unless you clean them really well they will go hard if not used. But as anouther poster said tape up wall & brush cornices the roll the ceilings. Dont forget to put drop sheet over fittings & floor.
Another tip is that between coats don't waste time cleaning roller & brush, wrap them in a plastic bag & stick in the fridge (make sure they are wrapped up tight to keep air out, i use a rubber band) they'll keep for a couple of days.
$2500 is a bit much considering painters get about 50% discount with trade accounts, but even if you had $500 materials $2k labour...... certainly hope they're not suggesting mates rates.
Another suggestion is get a mate to give you a hand then its only $50 for beer :cheers:& you care what it looks like when finished.
Good luck
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Just need to say it.............. I farrrrrrkin hate painting!!.............. I'd almost rather shove a red hot knitting needle down the eye of my "how ya goin"............... :'( :'( :'(
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Have a Go You MUG , if you don't like it you can always do it again . You get better as you go along . :cheers:
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just don't lose your stroke motion
either go stroke up then stroke down
OR
either go stroke down then stroke up
;D
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You'll instantly be a good painter if you wear white shirt, white pants
and Volleys, you have to have a pair of Volleys on your feet. that's the key
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Ceilings are easy to paint. If in doubt mask up the cornice/wall junction with the blue painters masking tape. If I am doing a whole room I won't mask this bit as I paint the ceiling and cornices first then it is an easy cut in for the walls. As cruisindub mentioned the Dulux ceiling paint that goes on pink and dries white is excellent.
So if you're painting the ceiling first and wall second you don't use any tape for either? Describe how you cut in the walls without getting wall paint on the newly painted cornice. This is a bit that i struggle with. I tape up the cornice before painting the wall and then when i remove the tape from the cornice i pull the new cornice paint off with it. Grrr... Alternatively, don't tape up cornice and get wall paint on the cornice. Double Grrr..
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Also, are there any recommended online stores or e-bay stores for buying painting accessories?
My local Bunnings just stocks so much el cheapo stuff, and their lines are horrendous.
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There is an online store or I should say discount paint store in Melbourne
http://www.paintclearancecentre.net.au/ (http://www.paintclearancecentre.net.au/)
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Hi,do the ceilings first and work your way down.
when you are 'cutting in' the wall paint on the edges of the cornices and tril, use a fine bristled cutting brush (they have the hairs on an angle)
those other fancy things with wheels and guides (shur-line) have their place though.
They are not as good as a good hand with a brush but if you suck at doing your cutting in with a brush try that avenue.
I painted our house 5 years ago and on the new gyprock did 2 coats of undercoat and 2 coats of colour. might seem like overkill but the result looked awesome
We used Dulux paints and undercoat
ceilings had Dulux Once
walls had Dulux interior wash & wear low sheen. didn't go for the full matt because we have kids and dogs and wanted to be able to clean easy
bathrooms and toilets had the Dulux wash & wear in a semi gloss. this paint is specially formulated for wet areas.
99% of our stuff we got from bunnings and no problems
here's a few pics to give you inspiration. colour is called ghosting
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Looks a nice place mate. Like the dining room, onto the patio with the doors and decking. Looks nice. Well done.
I guess, also for the OP, it's easy enough to change colour should you not like the shading.
We sampled a couple of colours, well worth it, they are expensive to buy. We chose a grey, too dark, finally settled on a lighter shade.
Took us a couple attempt to find the right shade of teal to accompany it.
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oh yeah
here's another tip
practice on a kids room or utility room or closet
do the main areas last
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Trust me you don't
'shakey'
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Call a bunch of Mates, put a BBQ on, supply some beer and soft drinks and get them to do it while you play with power tools. That's what I did. Works a treat.
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I started paint our interior last Saturday and gave up on Sunday. Can't stand painting, it is boring as bat hire.
Misses had a few quotes Monday and the job is booked for after the school holidays.
Not much of an answer but that's my take...
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
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Don't take 'Evans52' advice........alcohol and paint dont mix. Could turn out very messy.
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So if you're painting the ceiling first and wall second you don't use any tape for either? Describe how you cut in the walls without getting wall paint on the newly painted cornice. This is a bit that i struggle with. I tape up the cornice before painting the wall and then when i remove the tape from the cornice i pull the new cornice paint off with it. Grrr... Alternatively, don't tape up cornice and get wall paint on the cornice. Double Grrr..
And right there is the difference between a pro painter and the average jo who thinks he can paint. By the time average jo has mucked around taping up cornice,down one wall, a pro painter has just cut in the room with a dead straight line and not a bit of tape o paint on the cornice.
There is no secret as to how you do it goose, it is just a practise thing. If you did it 8-9 hrs a da every day, you get good at stuff. A good painter will have it done in half the time as average jo also.
In my line of work is see plenty of jobs, and I will say, that you can ALWAYS tell the jobs that was not done by a professional.
:cheers:
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So if you're painting the ceiling first and wall second you don't use any tape for either? Describe how you cut in the walls without getting wall paint on the newly painted cornice. This is a bit that i struggle with. I tape up the cornice before painting the wall and then when i remove the tape from the cornice i pull the new cornice paint off with it. Grrr... Alternatively, don't tape up cornice and get wall paint on the cornice. Double Grrr..
Correct if I am painting both ceiling and walls I do the ceiling and cornice first as painting the 10mm edge on the bottom of the cornice can be difficult if trying to cut in against the wall. It is easier to cut in up to this edge.
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i built and painted my place. I hate house painting, swore every time, till I learnt to buy professional gear, and not the cheap crap..
sstronger trays, better rollers, etc etc..
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And right there is the difference between a pro painter and the average jo who thinks he can paint. By the time average jo has mucked around taping up cornice,down one wall, a pro painter has just cut in the room with a dead straight line and not a bit of tape o paint on the cornice.
There is no secret as to how you do it goose, it is just a practise thing. If you did it 8-9 hrs a da every day, you get good at stuff. A good painter will have it done in half the time as average jo also.
In my line of work is see plenty of jobs, and I will say, that you can ALWAYS tell the jobs that was not done by a professional.
:cheers:
I'm afraid you're exactly right. The only way to get good at something is just to practice practice practice.
Maybe its better to not use the painters tape at all as that forces me to cut in in a straight line, or not cut in at all -- i have seen a few (ugly) houses where the walls and ceiling are the same paint and color. Suppose they thought it was a good idea at the time.
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Have a go.
Dont be stressed.
Besides, you can always touch up afterwards. How close are you, your family going to look at it. If your visitors do, and comment on it, don't invite them round again.
It's your house, your home.
We did all our renovations ourselves, and I looked at it this way. How long would it take me to earn the same amount of money in my pocket as to what I paid someone to do it............
We saved thousands by doing it ourselves.
That's thousands in capital in your home, and more in your pocket.
There's been some great advice above.
Pick up the brush and have a go. Wishing you all the best.
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A mate who is a painter says don't use plain white paint on the celling. Use builders white (He is a dulux man) a little drop of black in the paint makes it flow better. you cant tell the difference once it is dry.
I also found using a good quality brush and rollers are the key. Do not skimp on them, look after them and they will make it so much better. A good cutting in brush and a steady hand.
Good luck
Regards
Crispy
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You need a good cutting in brush around 60mm you need to sort of push it in ona 45 degree angle until it is straight against the cornice. Does that make sense? Probably not. You also need to have a full brush don't skimp on the paint and keep using the same side of your brush it will wear in and be easier. Keep going in the same direction whilst cutting do not brush back and forward. I am not a painter but carpenter/ builder and my old man was my boss as an apprentice so he made me work with a painter until I got good at it.
Eddy
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In my line of work is see plenty of jobs, and I will say, that you can ALWAYS tell the jobs that was not done by a professional.
:cheers:
THAT IS LIFE ADVICE RIGHT THERE :cheers:
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I was told by a painter that putting a bit of black in to your ceiling paint helps with coverage.... He explained that the tinted used are like tiny ball bearing except the black ones are a lot smaller and fill in the gaps between the white ones.... A bit like pouring sand into a glass of pebbles, if you get my drift..... Anyway they swear it works and you use a lot less paint to cover a ceiling..
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tell you what I'm doing this weekend instead of the anual Fraser trip..
Re-painting the outside of my house because the so called 'professional' I paid $15k 5 years ago to do the job failed to do what he was paid to do on the prep and also used a very sub-standard brand of paint starting with S.
By the time I figured out what had happened and caught up with him to get him back to fix the job mother nature fixed him up with lukemia so I left him alone to fight that battle.
I went to the paint manufacturer who admitted that there "might" be a problem with the paint but all they could offer me was some free paint (but no one to do the re-paint) which I declined.
If I was going to have to use my own labour I would rather pay for a premium brand and not have to touch it for another 15-20 years.
So have a go, be patient with yourself, focus on the prepration, workset hours like start at 7am, don't allow disruptions, knock off at 2.30-3pm and be sure to reward yourself with some nice treats (drinking treats) and a slap up meal.
Do take your time, yoyu will probably surprise your self and get a finish something like a pro might do but it'll just take you twice as long.
The money we saved helped Mrs B get a really nice kitchen in return