MySwag.org The Off-road Camper Trailer Forum
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: Jjw1234 on July 09, 2013, 09:59:06 AM
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Hi. Just wondering if anyone has attempted to make their own storage box. I'm after 2 for the trailer and one with the pantry drawers but hubby believe he can make it cheaper. Does anyone have any experience with this?? Cheers Jenn
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I've made numerous hi-fi speaker boxes out of mdf using a router and they are glued together using epoxy glue.
I plan to put the lessons I've learned into practice to make some storage boxes which I will coat with epoxy resin. No reason that they shouldn't be as durable as the plywood drifta boxes.
But this will wait until after I free up a bit of space by moving my fridge into the back of my vehicle.
Cheers, Marschy
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Jen, I haven't made one but gave building a Drifta style kitchen some serious consideration.
After pricing all the bits (not just the obvious ones, but all of the bits), I reckoned it just wasn't worth the effort to try to make it myself. I ended up buying the Drifta DPOR kitchen and tucker box and couldn't be happier. Top workmanship. And after owning one for a year, each time I pull it out, I still marvel at the thought and innovation that has gone into such a seemingly simple product. There was no way I could have made something like that.
Now having said all that, a simple storage box may well be a different consideration and something you could consider making yourself.
For what it is worth, I will getting my DMax rear drawers made by Drifta as I reckon they have such a top product.
Good luck
KB
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No experience but we talked about same thing bf was looking at making something I said really when does he have the time we went with the drifta and very happy we did a well made product great service and packed well in transport sorry doesnt answer your main question good luck
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One of the things I've heard most often from people who have tried to copy a drifta is that their one turns out way to heavy.
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If you can afford it buy a drifta. I made the first one in the camper and still ended up with a drifta once we could afford it also brought the slide out ute back kitchen for none CT trips.
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I have and kitchens as well, helps to be in the trade and have the skills and tools to do it. Where are you located, if you need a hand let me know
GG
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Jen,
Just about anyone can make a ply storage box.......... but only Drifta can make one as good as Drifta!! ;D
Happy owner here of a DPOR Package....... love it!!!!!!
:cheers:
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After making a kitchen for my last camper and several storage units for my Prado I decided to buy the Drifta DPO package for my next camper. Luke makes a fantastic product and I am happy to support him as I know the care and attention that goes into his work.
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Thanks guys. I think I have almost convinced him. Given I want the 1m pantry box at one end of the storage box I would prefer it to be made by drifta. That way it can match the kitchen. I will let you know who wins with "discussion" ????
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Buy a drifta. I am a woodworking legend and mine were crap. LOL
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I have designed and built my own 12 ply kitchen cupboards, when the daughter was less than 1 - she is now 23 and the cupboards are as good as the day they were screwed, glued, stained and sealed... etc.
I am sure it is possible for any handy person with tools and time to do a great job, however I doubt any of us would get all the little touches right first up that Drifta have included in the course of refining their product.
Might be possible to do a good job cheaper, but is it worth it once you factor in time as well? I doubt it.
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Made my own storage box. I got a company to cut the 15mm marine ply to my measurements plus they put plastic skids in the bottom for me. Then just screwed and glued it together. I added marine carpet and a divider that can be moved. Added Some varnish and it did the Gulf Trip with flying colours. Total cost $265.00. A drifta one del to Cairns was $600.
Yes not a drifta but saved me money and does the same thing.
Mark
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Any chance that company was in Melbourne mark?
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Whoops sorry. Just read you are from cairns
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Whoops sorry. Just read you are from cairns
If there is a company in Cairns that does there will be one in Melbourne for sure.
Mark
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Drifta website has some convincing rationale about building your own http://www.drifta.com.au/settFAQ.php#whycant (http://www.drifta.com.au/settFAQ.php#whycant)
Although there is alot less design involved in a storage box compared to a full kitchen.
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Don't forget the oldie but a goodie---
Quality remains long after the price is forgotten ;)
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I've made numerous hi-fi speaker boxes out of mdf using a router and they are glued together using epoxy glue.
I plan to put the lessons I've learned into practice to make some storage boxes which I will coat with epoxy resin. No reason that they shouldn't be as durable as the plywood drifta boxes.
But this will wait until after I free up a bit of space by moving my fridge into the back of my vehicle.
Cheers, Marschy
I agree that MDF will be strong enough but it is bloody heavy. I think a 2400X1200X19mm sheet of MDF is around 40KG whereas ply with the same thickness is around 28KG. I once made some bookshelves to mount on a wall at our old house. After finishing them, I went to lift it up and just about broke my back. I know MDF is a cheaper option but it quickly starts to add up in weight. Just my 2c worth.
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Only going to be 12mm MDF. I've made stuff like this before using a jig to make joints like this using a 6mm router bit.
(http://gallery.myswag.org/gallery/d/44082-1/Box+Joint.png)
The joint is very strong when epoxied. If I ever get around to it, I'll post some pictures and get some weights.
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Mdf will swell. Even sealing it makes it swell.
Join the campaign @ nomdf.com.au
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I've sealed mdf with epoxy resin in the past, never had a problem with it swelling.
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I agree that MDF will be strong enough but it is bloody heavy. I think a 2400X1200X19mm sheet of MDF is around 40KG whereas ply with the same thickness is around 28KG. I once made some bookshelves to mount on a wall at our old house. After finishing them, I went to lift it up and just about broke my back. I know MDF is a cheaper option but it quickly starts to add up in weight. Just my 2c worth.
Luke certainly doesn't agree with you Muzza: of course, we don’t use any chipboard or MDF, if we did , they would fall apart
Must say that I agree with him. I recall MDF being marketed as "the woodworkers clay" however, to continue that analogy, I would expect that,given the stresses involved in a camper, especially if used off road, the 'clay' would quickly revert to 'mud'.
MDF is essentially a combination of dust and glue, and as such has no genuine structual strength as found in timber / ply.
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Any chance that company was in Melbourne mark?
McGirr's drawer works very well. I've seen it in action, and it's like a Tardis..... :cup: :cup:
I've found Richard Halpin at Melboards in Hallam (http://www.melboards.com.au/ (http://www.melboards.com.au/)) to be very helpful.
Maybe give him a call to see what they can do......
:cheers:
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Only going to be 12mm MDF. I've made stuff like this before using a jig to make joints like this using a 6mm router bit.
(http://gallery.myswag.org/gallery/d/44082-1/Box+Joint.png)
The joint is very strong when epoxied. If I ever get around to it, I'll post some pictures and get some weights.
! agree that those and similar joint cutters result in an exceptionally strong joint, and I have used similar with both ply and timber. With MDF however it won't do anything to strengthen the 'two dimensional' i.e. 'flat' areas, and especially the sections of shelves between the uprights which might carry significant weight.
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Luke certainly doesn't agree with you Muzza: of course, we don’t use any chipboard or MDF, if we did , they would fall apart
Must say that I agree with him. I recall MDF being marketed as "the woodworkers clay" however, to continue that analogy, I would expect that,given the stresses involved in a camper, especially if used off road, the 'clay' would quickly revert to 'mud'.
MDF is essentially a combination of dust and glue, and as such has no genuine structual strength as found in timber / ply.
If it is sealed with epoxy or 2pac-poly it will be water-proofed and won't swell. As for structural strength, I thought we were talking about a mobile kitchen in a CT not a structural wall in a building. I think you would be surprised how many internal/external doors, kitchens and bathroom vanities all using MDF.
I am sure Marschy has enough know-how and experience to build a great kitchen out of MDF.
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Only thinking of storage boxes as per the OP, similar to the Drifta Tucker Box. Should be easy to knock up one of them using the jig I have for the router. Even before gluing, dry fitting the panels together gives you an idea of how strong the joins are.
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Drifta website has some convincing rationale about building your own http://www.drifta.com.au/settFAQ.php#whycant (http://www.drifta.com.au/settFAQ.php#whycant)
It's hard to argue with majority of those points in the link, but if you have the skill set, tools and your willing to hunt around for quality materials and hardware (not Bunnings!) go for it!
Nothing like quality shed time and the immense satisfaction of sitting back at your favorite campsite admiring your handywork.
Of note. The slide out kitchens on the older Outback Campers were constucted from 12mm lacquered chipboard. The inlaws old one had done alot of km's and the olnt broken parts were the ball catches.
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Just as a background on some applications that MDF is used in.
My history has allot of custom automotive audio/visual. MDF has been used for custom installs for years.
It is far better in application than ply for woofer boxes due to lower flex of flat panels when the woofer kicks. Hence much better sound and lower distortion from vibration.
This includes very large competition woofers that can weigh up to 60kg each and are incredibly powerful. Generally these boxes are completely sealed so I am sure you can understand the forces exerted on the MDF.
Now in regards to MDF absorbing liquid, yes they do like a sponge. However when it comes to epoxy and resins the right one will not absorb. I have fiberglassed lots of enclosures with custom designs over MDF, never had an issue with swelling or warping.
Now would I use MDF to make a slide out kitchen? No. Very high weight for size compared to ply.
Would I use it to make a storage box? Yeah, why not? If you have the material then its a cost effective product.
I can understand both sides of the flip on this, but if you understand MDF and how to use it to the maximum of its capability then it will do great for a lot of applications. And can be incredibly strong.
I agree with what's on drift as website. For a kitchen then yep, much more cost effective to just buy one from them. But at the end of the day a box is a box. Its not overly complicated.
Cheers
Evo
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Personally I wouldn't use MDF, plus a sheet of 9mm ply can be had for $40 it ain't expensive. But as above MDF has its places and it can be sealed. There is no way you want a speaker box/sound enclosure made out of anything else, it just so sonically dead.
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Pics of my storage box. It does the job for me.
Mark
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Pics of my storage box. It does the job for me.
Mark
Nice Job
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Good points on the epoxy not swelling and being waterproof.
Epoxy would be good and seeing as mdf is not wood and epoxy looks crap on wood all will be good with the world.
Epoxy away :cheers:
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Being serious for one moment ;D
It depends on what you are after. If you are just after a storage then ply glued and screwed will work fine.
If you use kregg screws and glue like this;
http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=16966.25 (http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=16966.25)
It will be super strong. I recently pulled this out when I changed my design and it took a lot of bashing to get out. The centre spline section delaminated (splintered) when bent over at about 80degrees. You can fill the holes where the screws go in.
If you are after storage and something that looks great then that takes some skill and experience. If you have it then no worries, but it is difficult if you dont. Keep in mind also that using sheets of 8 x 4 ply leaves you with lots of offcuts that are of no use to the project so you need more sheets to finish it. I would reckon that drifta have a component use for most of theirs.
Do you spend $400 to build your own or $1000 to buy one and which is good value in the long run. Thats a personal thing I think.
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As a Carpenter I find myself approaching this kind of thing by designing the box around the way you will cut out the pieces or developing a cutting list. and fitting it into the sheets of the material you wish to order. A simple way to do this is with scaled down cut outs using paper/card/plastic whatever is destined for the bin.
You can then change sizes and design to suit before you go cutting up valuable materials.
There are a million ways to fasten your corners shelves for better strength but nothing is a s simple as the housing joint or through housing. Some still use an arrangement of dowels and others get fancy and manipulate the strength of a dovetail section.
Personally I have gone with Dowels, liquid nails and screws for my fridge/table unit. I used 40x20 aluminium angle to reinforce the job and have bashed the hell out of it over 12 months without it giving an inch. I sealed the ply with a natural polish that I had left over from a pile of flooring contracts called OSMO polyx. Not as easy as mix and coat epoxy but totally non toxic.
Good luck with you decisions. There are many different animals out there that serve there purpose.
Here is a lil peek at MK1 of my fridge slide unit.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n529/freeairrealm/76%20Cruiser%20Life/DSCF4504.jpg)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n529/freeairrealm/76%20Cruiser%20Life/Wiilabingabeach055_zpse268ab7d.jpg)
Cheers
Chris
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thats looks tuff as nails monkeybucket, brilliant job on it
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This stuff's the go for lightweight storage boxes or camp kitchens.
Goldcore light plywood.
http://www.goldcorelight.com/index.htm (http://www.goldcorelight.com/index.htm)
Almost half the weight of hardwood marine ply (13kg for a 8x4 12mm sheet), AA grade and is very stable.
Atkar in Melbourne stock it.
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Nice find... Just wonder how the price would compare?? I know I can non structural 17mm 8x4 plywood sheets for under $65 each.
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Used 9mm cd ply on my first version and it twists so consideration during design is needed. #2 is 12mm AA grade marine ply, sooooo much nicer to work with.
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Nice find... Just wonder how the price would compare?? I know I can non structural 17mm 8x4 plywood sheets for under $65 each.
As always, 'you get what you pay for'. Cost of the material is a 'one off', while the reduced weight would result in on-going reduced fuel use / improved load capacity, both of which are likely to be of greater net benefit in the long term, provide d you can stretch to the initial extra price.
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Nice find... Just wonder how the price would compare?? I know I can non structural 17mm 8x4 plywood sheets for under $65 each.
18mm is too heavy if you want it to be portable or watch weight. A sheet of AA grade 12mm marine ply is around $70-$80 and weighs around 10kg less, 12mm Goldcore is another 10+kg lighter.
I'll find out next week what the single sheet price is for the Goldcore. Last time I got it was pack lots on a project price I'd rather not disclose.
12mm is the go, along with a combination of housing joins, 6g screws for fixing and an expoxy glue like the single pak Purbond.
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The beauty of making your own is you get exactly what you want, where you want.
I had a go and couldn't be happier, happy with the time in the shed + drinks as well.
I chose 12 mm Marine Ply as i could get it at a discount. Measured up what I needed and they had a proggy on their PC that worked out all the cuts for minimal sheet usage. [keeping in mind direction of the grain on the surface layer].
I glued, screwed and used biscuits.
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I reckon anyone with reasonable woodworking skills could knock up a simple storage box similar to the Drifta setup. The actual kitchen however is a work of art. Everything just works so well and its brilliantly designed and put together. Years of development is invaluable.
I have the DPOR with storage box combination and could not be happier. It was a substantial initial outlay but I consider it as an investment. Do it once do it right.
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Kangaron...that is one beautiful setup you have got there.
yes, you would have to agree Drifta have spent the time and tested all there stuff to make it top quality.
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I have a 5 and a bit year old Trackabout and it came with the tail gate mounted Drifter Kitchen. On the first trip the water pump tap started to leak , (I replaced it with an electric tap together with an electric pump) . Even though the leaking water was mopped up after each use it somehow worked its way under the clear coat finish that Drifter had used. After the first year I had to completely sand down all of the Drifter kitchen and reseal the timber not just the top but the whole kitchen had mold colour stains under the Drifter clear coat. Great product, well built and the kitchen works well, but after my experience with their product, I will be building my own pull/slide out storage box.
cheers duggie
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The beauty of making your own is you get exactly what you want, where you want.
I had a go and couldn't be happier, happy with the time in the shed + drinks as well.
I chose 12 mm Marine Ply as i could get it at a discount. Measured up what I needed and they had a proggy on their PC that worked out all the cuts for minimal sheet usage. [keeping in mind direction of the grain on the surface layer].
I glued, screwed and used biscuits.
Awesome job. Looks great.
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I reckon anyone with reasonable woodworking skills could knock up a simple storage box similar to the Drifta setup. The actual kitchen however is a work of art. Everything just works so well and its brilliantly designed and put together. Years of development is invaluable.
I have the DPOR with storage box combination and could not be happier. It was a substantial initial outlay but I consider it as an investment. Do it once do it right.
Hi Chris.
You summed up what I had stuffed around trying to say
Cheers.
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Not so much a drifta box. This idea is stolen from pictures I have seen on the web when you search for 'Chuck Box'.
I measured the clearance through the tailgate to make sure it's going to fit. The stand simply sits on top of the box for storage in the camper.
(http://gallery.myswag.org/gallery/d/45298-1/ChuckBox+II.jpg)
The stand is removed to reveal the chuck box.
(http://gallery.myswag.org/gallery/d/45301-1/ChuckBox+III.jpg)
Then the box sits on top of the stand and the doors are opened.
(http://gallery.myswag.org/gallery/d/45295-1/ChuckBox.jpg)
I haven't finished drawing the plans entirely. There is going to be a fold out top table that will make the table top as wide as the box with the doors open. Also the doors will have shelving. The shelves in the box itself will be adjustable and they will be able to fit the stove and crockery. The compartment on the right in the main box will be for things like kettles.
I'm just working out weights and whether building it out of MDF will be ok, or if I should do it in marine ply. The only problem I envisage with MDF is the base of the actual box may bee a little too thin with 12mm MDF so may need to be thicker.
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I know you have a penchant for MDF, but in this case I'd be using 12 mm waterproof ply. Its not exorbitantly expensive, and is far more structurally sound.
Pretty cool design, I like.
Edit: when I say waterproof ply, I mean waterproof, not marine, there is a difference in both price and inherent qualities. Marine ply is predominantly use in boat building, where the structure will be or could be submerged. That's in an under the waterline application. Waterproof ply is more than adequate in any situation other than that.
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Not a penchant for MDF in this instance. They just look sooooo nice when they are done in ply, check out this link.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/21268-Kitchen-Kit-Chuck-Box/page35 (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/21268-Kitchen-Kit-Chuck-Box/page35)
Edit: looking back at the link where I stole the idea from, I need to cut a bit of material out of the stand to reduce the weight a bit
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Not a penchant for MDF in this instance. They just look sooooo nice when they are done in ply, check out this link.
[url=http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/21268-Kitchen-Kit-Chuck-Box/page35]http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/21268-Kitchen-Kit-Chuck-Box/page35 (http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/21268-Kitchen-Kit-Chuck-Box/page35)[/url]
Edit: looking back at the link where I stole the idea from, I need to cut a bit of material out of the stand to reduce the weight a bit
A nice bit of kit. I love the look of stained and sealed ply.
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I looked at building my kitchen, draws and storage box for my Cavalier offroad camper but after working out the pricing for materials I called Drifta. It works a dream and I have more space than I could imagine.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1zRpETeuXp0/UG6VhDOCWAI/AAAAAAAADog/-nHa1o6biBs/w1366-h905-no/DSC_0874.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2vY3S9uL_ww/UMF00quPOuI/AAAAAAAAD00/MD9QvAPaDwM/w1357-h905-no/_19A6540.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UyXjRgaToR4/UMF1Vuv5aSI/AAAAAAAAD10/c3c-s2UF-Xg/w1357-h905-no/_MG_5155.jpg)
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I looked at building my kitchen, draws and storage box for my Cavalier offroad camper but after working out the pricing for materials I called Drifta. It works a dream and I have more space than I could imagine.
Thanks for the pics, that's the setup I just ordered for my new camper and it looks great! How does the Coleman stove go?
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Yep, Good looking set up.
I had to look twice at the third picture, But now I have it, It just seemed quite shallow, but its just the picture.
Where does the tucker box fit? Just on front(or behind) the two drawers?
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Coleman stone is great and glad I upgraded to it. Personal feel better than the standard camp stone and more room for pans.
The Cavalier has 450mm clearance so it is shorter by 50mm maybe 60mm than other campers. Drifta will build for your trailer clearance, length and width. One thing I added was 2 rails on the inside of the draw system. This was to sit my table on top of the load and secure it. Luke from Drifta is aware of a few mods I have done.
I'm not the Messiah, I am just a very naughty boy
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The tucker box is placed in last directly behind the kitchen.
I'm not the Messiah, I am just a very naughty boy
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Coleman stone is great and glad I upgraded to it. Personal feel better than the standard camp stone and more room for pans.
Any chance you can post some pics of how you connect the gas hose?
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Sorry for the delay
https://plus.google.com/photos/107528901013131303473/albums/5909623394413921697?authkey=CP7UwKXLosqS9AE
Here is a link to the photos of my modifications which show the Drifta setup and Coleman connections.
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Sorry for the delay
https://plus.google.com/photos/107528901013131303473/albums/5909623394413921697?authkey=CP7UwKXLosqS9AE
Here is a link to the photos of my modifications which show the Drifta setup and Coleman connections.
Thanks, that table in the box is a ripper idea :cup:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-PHoDj6Ua3-E/UgM0ZSyJa7I/AAAAAAAAERY/iQq_Vq4Lo4g/w1260-h835-no/DSC_0358.JPG)
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I can't take the credit for the idea, my brother noticed table size just fits perfectly in. He did his first and it great idea which hold everything down so it can't bounce out on rough roads
I'm not the Messiah, I am just a very naughty boy